So i tried and impact wrench and it won't give. So i hit it with two cans of penetrating oil and nothing. The damn thing won't move at all. So should i have it cut out and retapped, or should i cut the head off the o2 sensor and try an easy out?

 

How 'bout heating it with a propane torch?

 

If you tried everything and still have no luck. It is fairly easy to remove the driver side manifold. The passenger side is a different story though

 

I had the same problem, couldn't get it off to save my life. Although I didn't try the torch method, that would probaly work pretty good. I finally took the car to a local shop, it took them 4 hours to get it out. They used a 4ft. brake over bar, the guy could only budge it about a 1/16 with every turn. After that he had to retap it. It took him about 5 hrs. total and about $80 from my pocket.

 

try putting a plank of wood against the exh. manifold and use it as leverage while using a ratchet wrench with an 02 sensor driver, thats the only way ive ever been able to get that damn thing out of there.

takes some effort but its a whole lot safer than putting a 2500* flame in your engine bay. just my opinion though.

i also wouldnt try it if you have headers, im not sure if you could kink the primaries wihen you apply force to the wood.

 

Would standard anti-seize help with this?

 

Of course, putting anti-seize on threads that you don't want sticking is a great idea. It's too late now for this case; anti-seize has no penetrating qualities.

 

Yep...I meant for future use. I didn't know how it would hold up under such high temperatures.

 

My friend had the same problem on his IROC. He was getting about 12mpg since the O2 sensor was so old, he couldn't get it out...well, long story short, he finally did get it out, but only by breaking it off, so the last time he drove it it got about 7-8mpg since there was no sensor at all

So I'd either leave it alone (so as not to make a bad problem worse) or grab some cheap eBay headers, they dont' have to be good but better than manifolds for sure and obviously that will solve your O2 sensor problem

 

SummitRacing sells their own brand F-body headers for something like $80...

Here's the part for the 305 Camaro shorties: SUM-G9005 but I'm pretty sure that they'd have other types, if needed.

 

Those are pretty crappy headers, but they'll at least fix this problem. It'd cost about as much to have a shop fix it as it would to buy a cheap pair of headers. Even if they aren't good headers, they should be better than manifolds.

I couldn't change my O2 sensor for the longest time either, but I ended up being able to pass emissions without it. My O2 sensor finally got replaced when I yanked the stock manifolds and put in my SLP headers That whole job took me less than 5 hours, from key off to test drive. Then again, I have no emissions equipment or A/C stuff in the way anymore either.

Headers are great. With stock manifolds, my car had no ***** over 4500-4700RPM. Now it pulls all the way to 5700. Haven't taken it over that for fear of my bottom end so far.

 

That's because your friend has the strength of a little girl.

 

While that may be true, it was probably because it was an 18-year-old car and the O2 sensor wasn't installed with anti-sieze (obviously)

 

Speaking of anti-sieze, I hear that it only works for so long. For example, if you installed an O2 sensor ten years ago with anti-sieze, it is most likely all going to be gone when you try and remove the O2 sensor ten years later.

 

On an O2 sensor topic (but having nothing to do with seized ones), when I went to replace mine a few months ago, everyone told me to stay away from the Bosch ones. I was told that the Delco sensor is supposed to be the best because it will last forever as long as the engine is in tune and the Bosch parts seem to die really early. I checked every place locally and none of them carried or could even order the Delco sensor so I grabbed the Bosch. It did fix my problems. The car runs much better than before, but WinALDL constantly reports O2 readings in the 0.6 - 0.8 range and it MAY occassionally dip to 0.004 for a moment before flying (and staying) up to the 0.8's. I know the sensor is supposed to bounce all around 0.45, but it hardly ever gets near it. Not many zero-crossings here at all. Just another complaint that may be due to the Bosch unit. Try to get the Delco for your replacement. I'll do mine when I get to headers/exhaust; which should hopefully be soon.

 

ACdelco? I got the old one off and installed the new one. I am still getting error codes 13 and 44. Do you think this is from using a bosch sensor?

 

Before doing anything else, if you haven't yet, clear the codes from the ECM's memory by pulling the ECM fuse or the battery cable for 20-30 seconds. Pop the fust back in/reconnect the battery and drive around a bit. If you're still getting codes, try this:

Here's the TGO link for the codes:
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml

Scroll all the way to the bottom. To excerpt:
13. Oxygen sensor signal stays lean during warm engine cruise
44. Oxygen sensor lean

This could indicate a few different things, but most likely points toward the O2 sensor lead to the ECM having higher than normal resistance. Try to run a multimeter from the O2 connector to to the corresponding wire termination at the ECM. If I looked up the right ECM that I think you have (1227302), then it should be a purple wire on connector D7. The resistance should not be very high at all. Try to shake the line at various points while taking the reading. This could point out shorts along the line that would be hard to see otherwise.

Check this thread and go about 1/4 down for a pic of the 302 ECM pinout:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hlight=1227302