that is art,period.....van gough would eat his other ear instead of sending it away if he saw this exhaust(jokes) seriously,this looks like an elite pro touring exhaust
Sorry I'm kind of new at performance applications, whats the red bar that goes from the rear end next to the drive shaft and attaches to the trans mount
Sorry I'm kind of new at performance applications, whats the red bar that goes from the rear end next to the drive shaft and attaches to the trans mount
Responding to an old post here @skinny z .The pic in your post #551 uses the hooker blackheart cross member. I just purchased that for my 91RS with an LS1 & 4L60E to make room for my Texas Speed y-pipe. Question I have is, how did you secure that tubular torque arm to the cross member? I have an Umi tubular torque arm. Was thinking I could drill thru the "divorced torque arm bracket?" Unfortunately when I secure that rectangular torque arm bracket (which I am guessing is for the stock torque arm), it is not wide enough to accommodate the Umi torque arm with bushings. Another idea I had was to use the flat oval pivot brackets (also shown below) instead of the Hooker rectangular torque arm bracket. Thoughts?
In my case, the UMI arm has the OEM profile at the front. I got that arm long before the crossmember came along and to tell you the truth, the crossmember is still in the box it came in.
As for your situation, I cant see why you couldn't attach a double shear mount in place of the box that holds the OEM style bushing. It would have to be plenty strong though. Probably built with some triangulation for additional support.
Sort of spitballing here but I think the general idea is there. Add to that a pair of (triangular) braces from the bottom of the TA mount to the crossmember and should hold up. You could then run the shackle as posted.
Thanks Kevin...can you please clarify a few of your terms? I am not picturing the idea you're proposing...what did you mean by "double shear mount" and "triangulation" or "triangular braces?" Any chance you can send an sketch?!
Here is what I had in mind but the "OEM box" is not wide enough unless I use longer bolts and a "shim" in between...
Let me see if I can't draw something up. The more I think about it the more involved it becomes.
FTR: This is a double shear mount. It refers to support on both sides of what needs to be located.
One thing though is that you have to use a shackle at the forward attaching point. There has to be some movement fore and aft to compensate for the rear suspension travel.
Much like the picture you posted earlier.
In this modified case, the bottom bushing is fixed to the crossmember. As in welded in place. Then the shackle attaches to it and then to the arm bushing.
Kind of like this.
Wondering if I could just fabricate a similar bracket that is modified with an increased width to accommodate the width of the Umi front profile (snug enough to allow some minor forward/aft movement) and then a reduced height so the TA would not have any vertical play. Thoughts? See my image below. Sorry about the shitty drawing...not easy to use a finger on mousepad for editing!
If you intend to use only the arm's front bushing without the shackle, it'll be destroyed the first time the rear suspension goes through any movement. As the rear axle goes through it's range of travel, the arm moves more than an inch in either direction (forward/rearward). You need the shackle to provide that pivot. This is why the OEM mount consists of that square bushing and the nose of the arm is profiled to slide into that bushing. It's that sliding that provides that fore and aft movement.
You'll notice that both of these attachment methods will allow the arm to move longitudinally to accommodate the rear axle movement. Much like the slip yoke of the driveshaft. You'll need to replicate the same.
Just coming back from UMI's website. What I'm seeing is the model of torque arm you have is designed for use with what they call a tunnel mount. The cross member has a bushing welded to it. Then a pair of twin plates (to make a shackle) are used to attach to the busing on the end of the arm you have. That allows for that forward and rearward movement (exactly like the driveshaft).
The transmission mounted arms work with a bushing and the profile at the front end of the arm is shaped (either round or a "W") to work with a similarly shaped bushing.
I hope that makes sense.
Thanks again for your time and the insight Kevin @skinny z ...just ordered this: https://www.foundersperformance.com/...v=7516fd43adaa
I feel modding the existing Hooker x-member could compromise the integrity and certainly with an item experiencing these forces/torques, I want to be safer then sorry! Thanks!
Perfect! @walkingdead5
I agree on the modification aspect. My time in a chassis shop (pics on request!) taught me a lot but that was with a master fabricator. My good friend and shop owner would slice and dice just about anything (and sometimes everything it seemed). But his experience was the difference.
What's more, the shackle style torque arm mount stories (as your original arm was) are generally filled with words like "noisy" and "clunking" and "binding". That tells me something. It has it's place though I'm sure.
I think you'll be more than satisfied. Maybe do us a favour and post your assembly results. A follow up to a thread is always good for our brand. And as I mentioned, my Hooker crossmember is still in the box! I'd like to see how it all plays out for you.
hey guys i have an 82 Camaro and i want to get rid of my stock exhaust and put a custom exhaust coming out the side of the car and i was wonder if you guys have any tips or know of any complications i might run into. so what I'm thinking is that since i have long tube headers on it i would run 2.5 inch tube off that into an x pipe and have my mufflers come right off the x pipe and then have tubing off the mufflers dumping the exhaust out the side of the car.
for mufflers im thinking of the SpinTech 6000
