i will be getting a true dual exhaust bent at a local shop in the next couple weeks, im looking to order a set of mufflers now. i will have the exhaust bent so both pipes come down where the factory exhaust used to be. i am thinking about having them stagger a set of magnaflow glasspacks down the straight stretch. what do you guys think? i will be having 2.5" pipe bent all the way back and i will let the put my cutouts on(if they will). and also im not too sure on tips. should i get some or just have turndown before the rear bumper cover? i have longtube hookers as well. they are the ballsocket ones. just want my ground clearance back.

thanks,
justin

 

Waste of money and not needed. A single 3in or 3.5 pipe would be the best route. You're not building an all out race car.

 

I agree with Vincent. A big single off a y-pipe off of long tubes isn't going to appear any different to an engine than duals with a perfect x-pipe. The single is the ultimate crossover. A 3.5 inch pipe can be had from Mufflex if you're unwilling to pay for someone to fab it for you. You just need someone to make a y-pipe.

How do you plan to get the driver's side collector over to the cat converter anyway?

You need a custom crossmember and a y-pipe similar to mine and take it over the axle. My system hangs a little too low before the axle because I originally had it built to dump the muffler at the axle. Going over the axle got me extra clearance anyway since the body of the muffler wasnt eating up an extra inch, but there was more to be had if I were willing to have the whole system redone.

You build it to go over the axle to begin wtih and you'll get even more clearance. I have NEVER scraped this system and Im in a lowered car, and I've been over some really hairy stuff that made my butthole pucker. Would have left most big exhaust systems crushed. Also, this is a single 3.5 inch pipe, not a 3 inch pipe. It starts off as a dual 2.5 at the y-pipe. It merges into a 3.5.







I havea special double hump crossmember. If you have a 700r4 it gets tough to do something like that... but mw66nova (who did my exhaust) managed to do a GREAT job with his brother's car with a custom crossmember for a 4l60e:





The key is the crossmember. Its just in the way.

If you go with a single pipe remember that there's only ONE muffler, so get a good one. You can go with some glasspack style thing if you dare, but I suggest going with a decent, large muffler to keep it quiet. My car is VERY loud with the dynatech splitflow on it. I'd probably go with a Flowmaster 50 (For the suv's/trucks) in a 3.5 or a Hooker aerochamber if you go that route.

 

thank you very much for that bit of info, i will be doing a single exhaust with y pipe. i am able to fab it up myself but will most likely let the exhaust shop deal with it.

so a mufflex y pipe will get me close, without having to make a crossmember? and will a single 3 in,, dual 2.5 out muffler be best?

i cant remember which headers i have. they are ball sockets and are either hookers or hedmans. i will have to look at them.

 

i lied.. i looked into it more, ill just sell my headers and get a set of hedman shortys with the y pipe and do a single 2.5 that dumps just before the rear end

 

Not good! Pipe too small! Will smell the exhaust! Too loud! And will lose performance.

 

so you think it would be better to let the shop just make a y pipe and do it that way?

 

im using these:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-94051/

 

Go to Summit or Jegs and buy a y-pipe made by Flomaster

 

could you get a part number for me? im using the hookers without the air deal on them, they are ball sockets also. it would be greatly appreciated. i dont want to choke the motor

 

Here you go! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-10778/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLO-Y250300/

 

you've already changed gears but I figured I'd add.

There's no way around the crossmember problem with an automatic except to go underneath it. That's where all the ground clearance goes. If you make a custom notched crossmember then it gets REAL easy to keep your ground clearance decent and build a little y-pipe to connect LT's to the Mufflex system. The mufflex system starts I think around halfway up the driveshaft, aft of the transmission. So it starts farther back in the car than the average catback does. It starts somewhere close to where my tail pipe clamps to my y-pipe in my pictures of my setup. So you have room to either connect a decent shorty system to it with a good custom dual 2.5->3.5 y-pipe, or do the same with some Long Tubes.

Otherwise do a 3 inch single. 3 inches is plenty for most... good for something like 450hp I think. It's even plenty for me... but I have the 3.5 anyway. Just to have growing room, although I sometimes get the feeling I wont ever be able to afford to grow into it... lol.

And Im not sure everyone is on the same page about what a y-pipe is... A y-pipe is a pipe the connects the headers from both banks into a single pipe. That y-merge from Flowmaster is a good piece and it's what I used for my setup, but you still need a lot more pipe to connect the headers to the exhaust system than just that one Y-merge.

This is my idea of a y-pipe. Unfortunately due to the way our cars are underneath nothing of this nature exists (for long tubes) except for that extremely expensive piece from Hawks which requires their headers and exhaust system which are also expensive.

 

.do you have a side by side of a notched crossmember and the factory one? if its not too entirely difficult i will make one. im only 20 years old, but have access to a lot of tools.
i have a lift in my garage and i know how to weld very well. if its easy enough i will make one and just keep my long tubes and do a single 3.5 then. later i plan on going turbo and would rather do a 3.5 to keep backpressure at a min.

if i buy the hedman xtensions, would those get me around the trans pan? so i dont have to make the pipes?
also when i get to the rear do i just use another y pipe to branch the exhaust back?

 

My system uses S-extensions but not to go down.

I accidentally put the y-pipe in upside down for the picture... but you get the idea:



It actually merges on the passenger side like factory...

But anyway, you should have a stock crossmember to look at. This is the SPD double hump piece that isnt available anymore:



It only works with T56's though. You'd have to build something different for a 4l60/700r4. Youve just got to know how to fabricate to build yourself one. The shorties + ypipe + 3 inch catback is a lot easier and works with all your stock parts.

 

here's the modded 4l60e crossmember. a 700r4 would be similar

 

perfect, thats what i wanted to see, i will be doing that, is that the factory crossmember cut up? or a completely different one? thanks

 

Cut up stock unit.