Ok guys well I got all the bolts in fine, but the rear right one started getting really hard to turn when it got in some. I double wrenched it and I cant even make it budge because it is so tight, but its not even up touching the header yet. It has about 1/4 before it even touches the header. I cannot move it at all, thats how tight it is. What in the world can be going on?

 

Come on tech gurus, cause without this tightening i cant run the car.

 

it sounds like its cross threaded, or it could be binding on the flange. take all of the other bolts out, then try to loosen it. remove the bolt and check to see if the threads are screwed up. if not, try to reinstall the bolt without the headers in place and see if it will go in all the way. if it will, reinstall the headers putting that bolt in first part way. then just start the bolts on the side where the headers curve towards the hole. tighten them partially, then install the rest of the bolts. i always try to get the hardest bolts in first because it gives u the most room to move the headers so u can get them in. hope this helps.

 

are you having trouble due to room, or the bolt itself? if its the bolt itself, dab2pds has some good advice. If it's room that's the issue, then you just need to get creative with getting to it..

 

Did part of a bolt break off in there?? Maybe it's just rusty, stick ofme lythium grease in there, and run the bolt down and pack out without the header on. Check the flange for warpage. It could be several things.

Let us know if non of this is it.

 

If it doesnt move at all it sounds like it is definately cross threaded. It is hard to see the header bolts well with the flange in the way and easy to cross thread them. Back it out and try to get a tap started in there straight. You will need to take the header off to do this, dont try it through the flange. Hopefully it isnt in too deep to save whats left of the threads. I dont think the flange or rust would completetly stop the bolt from turning, good luck
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Oh yea always start the hardest to get to header bolts first, gives better access to the last one or two which are usually the hardest.

 

well see it started easy and got harder and harder then just stopped. I dont know, but I hope i didnt ruin anything. I will take it out tomarrow when the rain clears.

 

Well guys I got the bolt out, and the threads on it look fine. I just dont get it. When you go to put the bolt back in it wont start threading, but I had the problem when I tried doing it the first time. It just spins and it gets to a tough spot then is loose again and will pull out. Any suggestions?

 

I'm sorry to say but it sounds like the threads inside the head are stripped. You may need to remove the head and re-tap it as mentioned earlier. Before doing that I would try another bolt just to make sure. I know it sucks, its everyones worst nightmare if it happens.

 

But how would it become stripped if it never worked since the second the old bolt came out?

 

I'm assuming you have cast heads. If so, here's a cheap easy fix. Not the best way though. Measure your flange thickness and gasket. Then measure your bolt. Cut the bolt so that it will extend 7/16 to 1/2 inch into the head.

Supposedly, the length of thread holding a bolt only needs to be as long as the diameter of the bolt. But the more thread the better, my opinion. You may try different lengths of bolts until you get as much thread as possible and also a good fit on the header flange.

Good luck!

 

I have put about $2000 or more into this damn car since the day I bought it and it STILL HAS NOT even seen the road legally. I will sell this POS before I pull a head.

 

Wow.....

 

Are you sure the bolt isn't too long, or that the hole isn't tapped as deep as the others? I would stick something in the hole to see how deep it is, and maybe try and use a mirror to verify the threads are fubar'd. I wouldn't worry about pulling a head just yet.

 

What about putting a stud in teh head and using a nut instead?

 

How about getting a tap and die set and cleaning up the threads. If you dont have one this is a good time to get one. If you want to do the work you have to get the tools. I hate to see guys try to work on there cars with a adjustable wrench, a pair of pliers and a 6-1 screwdriver.

 

well actually this bolt hole was never used, stock cars have 7 bolt manifold paters. They pass right over this bolt and goto the one an inch further down. Clean the threads, this is what i had todo, from those years of no useage, the thread kin da surface rusted and packed in at the end as i tried to screw it in.


good luck!

 

Ok so cleaning it might help? I dont think i could fit a tap and die set that far back there, how much room is needed?

 

If you want to clean the threads, you need to use a thread chase, NOT a tap. It is shorter, and should fit in there easily. It will clean any crap out of the threads and straighten them if they're not too buggered up. I would pull the header out to do this.

 

 

Where can i get a thread chase, and what size do i need?

 

Hi , I was just wondering what any of you guys think about the dual vers single exhaust . I resently had a '90 formula 350 TPI (w / a few good bolt ons ) w / head man hedders and a full 3" exhaust w / flowmaster muf . It worked great from start to finish . Now I have a '92 carbed 350 and high fow heads , hedders , and a true dual exhaust . Some one spent a lotof time building it so I hate to just trash it , but I will for more power . I hven't had much time to run the car yet I decieded to pull down the motor and give it a frsh start . Any way any advice would be nice .

 

it is impollite to hijack threads, appologise or i'll report your post.


Back to topic:

I didn't use a thread chaser, although i have a kit, it was hard enough to get my tiny fingers back there, so i used carb cleaner with the spray tube, and used a pipe cleaner, all in which are bendable so it makes it super easy.

 

I know it's to late, but I've just got done installing my headers and what I did was put on some anti-seize lube on the short allen head bolts. The allen head bolts were a blessing. They are shorter than the bolts provided and you can get the allen wrench in where you can't with a bulky wratchet wrench.

 

Ok well I will try and clean it and see what happens, could I clean it with one of those flexible wire brushes?

 

This is what it looks like. The size is 3/8-16 coarse thread. You usually have to buy them in a set (sears has them for about $50).

 

Take it easy on that guy man. No need to report his post. He is a new user, just registered this month. Im sure he didn't mean to take over the thread.

Anyways the last passenger side header bolt is a pain in the a**. I hated that bolt.

 

I found on my heads, some holes were "longer" than others - I had to use 3/4 inch long bolts - the 1 inch jobs would bottom out - maybe try a 3/4inch bolt in that hole.