any information would be greatly appreciated. im going to start this tomaro after school. i got the headers sanded down and painted so their ready to go on. is there anything that i can remove from the car to make the job easier? this will be my first header job so i really need all the help i can get. i am going to remove the smog crap too. how long should this take? i heard someone saying it is like a 5 hour job.

btw the headers are eldelbrock T.E.S. headers with the y-pipe. but it is all used and hopefully the y-pipe will go all the way to the cat so i wont need any extra pipe.

ALSO: i have a lift so i could install them from the bottom, would it be easier to do it that way?

 

I would plan on more than five hours. I have never installed edelbrocks but they should go in from the top. If not try the bottom. Chances are you will rty both ways. You will know what I mean after hour six or so . Depending on fitment some people move the AC compressor out of the way as well as removing the valve covers. If you just cannot get them in unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up just a touch. That often gives you enough room to slide them in. Get some band aids, PB blaster, and cold drinks because you will need it. Good luck!

 

Man, sounds like you have your work cut out for you. I have those headers on my TA, installed by a previous owner. I was thinking of removing them to have them coated, but after reading Shifty's post above, I think I'll wait until I pull the whole engine out for a rebuild. Some of those bolts look challenging to get to.

If you have a digital camera, take a ton of pics during the process and then write up an article. You can help others who will do this in the future, and maybe get it made into a sticky!

 

I installed my SLP Tri-Y headers. It wasn't too bad if an install at all. The only thing that worried me was the bolts breaking from rust and all the heat cycling. Basically what I did was for one week before the install, I soaked all the bolts every day with extra strength penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster. (I used Aero Kroil.) Then I just unbolted the AC without disconnecting, set it to the side a little and slipped in the headers. Study your piping very carefully. On my car, I had to cut the stock Y-Pipe off so I could slip on the SLP Y-Pipe. Didn't have to raise my engine at all. The only thing was that it was tedious work and I had to go slowly. Took me about 9 hours total, including food and beer breaks... by myself.

 

Took about 2 hours to pull my stock manifolds and Y pipe then an hour to install my long tube headers. WEAR GLOVES. You'll thank me afterwards. No pinches, scrapes, scratches, or rust marks on you. Just take your time and give yourself a full day and its no big deal. I had the hardest time getting the metal heat shield out of the way of the manifold bolts. Once I realized it was there it took very little time to pull everything.

 

Ill be doing the same thing tomorrow, but only 2055's. I already removed the stock stuff. what a PITA. I had to section the pipe and take the manifolds through the bottom.Im hoping the new exhaust install will go much smoother. Good luck

 

Go ahead and drop the starter. It's only two bolts and a few wires. It will make thngs easier as the passenger side header will probably go in from the bottom. With the starter out of the way, you'll be able to get to the bolts a lot easier.

Probably want to pull the plugs too. This is an opportune time to replace the plugs if they have a lot of mileage on them.

Be careful around the temp. sensor. May want to remove it if the header is real close when trying to slip it in. It's easily broken if bumped the wrong way.

The driver's side header will probably slip in from the top. Here is where you may want to remove the valve cover.

Good Luck!

 

i had to remove sarter, dipstick tube, alternator, plugs, smog stuff, and broke my fan switch sensor. i still had to unbolt my pass side motor mount and jacked it up about an inch. looking back i should have took out my valve cover....might have saved me some time

 

thanks for the help guys i had heard i should soak them in the pb but i dont have any on hand and i was hoping to start removing everything today... doesnt it need to soak for a day or two? should i wait and get the pb or you think it would be alright to go ahead and start removing stuff i dont want to get halfway in a start having problems.

 

Ahh, no.

Unless you like pain and sufferring. Trust me. Wait for the PB Blaster. It'll make your life THAT much easier. Oh yeah... if you can, also install a starter heat shield. Works great.

 

Maroon88iroc, I have the exact same headers and Y pipe that you do. I installed mine when I was 16 and it took me 7 hours to do. I had to "coerce" my brake lines at the master cylinder over a bit and I re-routed the steel heater line that runs along the passenger frame rail to run above the valve cover. Also make sure you remove all the spark plugs, you will likely need to remove the AC compressor, or just move it out of the way. If I recall correctly the passenger side went in from the top and the drivers side went in from the bottom. I did not jack up the motor. I cant remember which side it is but one side the header collector comes really close to the cross member and will rattle if you arent careful. That is about all I can remember right now.

 

i put on those exact same headers. drivers side will be easy and they will fit through the top. you will need to unbolt the steering arm though (easy). passenger side will be a pain. they will need to go in through the bottom, after you remove the starter. GET A STARTER HEAT SHIELD...im screwed because my starter will probably go out this summer from the heat of the headers. this would also be the time to get a new starter (preferably a mini starter). if you get your y-pipe and everything welded on you will NOT be able to remove the starter without taking off the header which will involve cuting. if i were you, i would replace the starter now while you are at it. be careful when u smash the passenger side header through the bottom, watch out for that steel brake line. if you dont jack up the motor, you will need to hammer the headers past the control arm. you dont want to pinch that brake line, its a pain to replace! go to a hardware store and get some pipe caps for the AIR tubes on the TES. you will need new 90* boot plug wires. to make it easy just ask for plug wires for a 1994 C1500 1/2 ton chevy pickup at autozone or something. they shouldnt melt on you, mine havent yet. thats about all i can think of. ask if you need help

 

Yeah, the heat shield is like 10 bucks. Well worth the investment. My starter was getting heat soaked with the original manifolds in there. It was a huge PITA. As for connecting the Y-pipe to the cats, I used exhaust band clamps. They're not like regular clamps that crimp the metal. So, I can take my Y-Pipe off easily. I've heard a lot of people say negative things about them but I haven't had a single problem with mine at all and they work amazingly well.

 

so im going to need a starter heat shield? where can i find one of those?
and i was planning on doing a tune up later on. so i guess i should go ahead and do it at the same time right, since i need new wires, the stock wires wont work at all, i have to have 90 degree boots?

i figured i would have to remove the plug wires, plugs, starter and valve covers and yall say i will need to move the ac compressor out of the way correct?

i am going to try and make a how-to thing about removing the air and then installing the headers. ill take lots of pics dont worry. the tech article on the air doesnt say how to do anything it just says how you should route the new belt. kinda gay to put up a tech article and not go into detail about what it is your making the article about..

 

You could make your life easier and just remove the passenger side motor mount bolt. Then put a piece of board under your oil pan and jack the motor up. Then drop the passenger side header in from the top. Much easier then removing starters...etc

 

Well I got mine installed. It was actually alot easier than I thought since I had most of the motor taken apart anyways. I didnt have to take the starter off,or jack up the motor though. Thanks guys for the suggestions. Ill have to get pics up soon.

 

Werd on the PB Blaster. Buy a can or two and soak them bolts. It will make your life easier I installed those headers in my car. Drivers side was pretty easy. Just had to take off some brackets and the valve cover. I couldnt get the steering column apart. Passenger side I had to remove the dipstick, starter and the air stuff. Have fun with the rear passenger side header bolt

 

The starter heat shield can be gotten from Summit Racing or Jegs. My local Autozone actually had some for sale. I don't understand why you would need to remove the valve covers. Just route the AC and smog stuff to the side and at an angle you can slip your headers in. I spent the most time on the removal of the old exhaust manifolds. I stripped one of the bolts and had real fun getting it out afterwards.

 

haha remeber when my crazy *** tried to install headers last summer...what a mess

if you trust yourself to lift the motor, that will probably be easier. you wont need to touch the AC if you put it in from under the car.

starter heat shields: sorry it wont let me link it... http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&searchinresults=false&y=0&N=115&Ntt=starter+heat+shield&x=0

your stock straight plug boots will melt against the headers.

in my opinion the hardest part (besides the broken heat shield screw i delt with) was screwing in the rear passenger side header bolts (the last 2 or so). you have little room to work with and you get jello-arm from being under the car. good luck man, its not a hard job, you just need patience.

btw dont worry too much if you cant get the stock AC and alternator brackets back on. i havent had mine on since i put my headers in last summer and im fine.

dont break your fan switch! (its located on the passenger side of the block)

if you arent buying edelbrock's kit, you should get new gaskets too

 

Hey, all that counts is that it's done. Like any first time job, if you ever have to do it again, i'm sure you could do it twice as fast.

 

yeah im planning on doing it again this summer because the y pipe is rusting pretty bad. i will also get a mini starter while im at it. this time i might go with some cheapo flowtechs or something and get them coated and try to find an aluminzed or stainless steel y-pipe. this time i wont have to deal with rusty bolts

 

I recently installed hooker 2055 Headers...they slipped right in without having to jack up the motor...but i removed all the tubes, hoses, brackets, ect. that were in the way....are some 305s/engine bays different that would cause some people to have more problems that others?

 

I am currently in the process of installing my SLP headers. So far i have the drivers side off and the Y pipe. Came apart real easy so far. Not really looking foward to the passenger side. But I did take out the spark plugs to be safe and to make it soo much easier to get in and out the exhaust. Ill let you know how tomorrow goes. Im doing it in stages since i have to be at work from 7 till 4:30 and takes me an hour to get home. Just doing the drivers side and the Y pipe took me under 2 hours to do including stoping and having dinner.

 

Kinda. Although the design intent of all 3rd gens was the same the manufacturing differences and wear and tear (the metal will creep a bit over the life of the car) of the cars throughout the years differed. Also, simple things such as worn motor mounts can greatly affect header clearance.

 

Got the passenger side off. Took me slightly longer than to do than the drivers side. I was able to take mine out right through the top. I just unbolted the AIR and took the dryer for the AC off. Made things real easy to unbolt, thought that last bolt is a little pain in the butt but that was expected.

 

what do i do with the emission plugs that comes from the computer to the emissions equipment. i will go get a picture of what i am talking about.

 

here is the pictures of the plug ins i am talking about. sorry i dont know the name of these things

 

just leave them unpluged and stow them up. thats what i did when i had my 305. u wont get any light

 

Man, you EFI guys have it hard... i crammed both my Headman Longtubes in from the top.. had to unbolt both motor mounts and jack up the engine but that's it....

 

I'm EFI (TBI), and my headers (2055) slipped in without much trouble...Just had to remove some wires and hoses and i didn't need to unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the engine as some people do, I'm really glad i didn't have to.
Lots of room

 

yes but that is also the driver's side.... passenger side isnt that easy.

i started today and it looks like its going to be a job. i took all the smog stuff off and out except the smog pump, i tried but my torque bit bent.... lame. but ya ill take the manifolds off tomaro and in goes the headers. im also replacing the plugs wires and cap and rotor while im doing this so hopefully it will livin this motor up a little.


EDIT: i have another question. how do i take the ac stuff off that is up by the firewall? i would like to move it to make the passenger side go better but i dont know how to take it apart to move it to the side.

another question... what spark plug wires should i get? i cant just get stock replacements they have to have a 90 degree boot? rwdtech i know you were the one that mentioned it so i will ask. you put on the spark plugs for a 94 truck and arent having a problem with them or is that just what you are suggesting i get? i need to find out what spark plugs to get b/c im going to autozone in the morning to get everyhitng.

 

I used the MSD universal set. They are really nice wires with 90 deg. boots. The set comes with intructions and a special crimping tool. If you follow the instructions, the crimps look factory. It does take a little longer to install these, but I think they are worth the effort. The boots are heavy duty and can take a lot of heat.

 

did any of you guys have a couple stripped bolts when you did this? i have two on the driver side and i cant get them off. what should i use to remove them? also how did you guys get the last bolt on the passenger side out?

im going to be doing this all week this is much harder than i thought it would be theres no room at all on the passenger side... all i have left though is the last bolt on the passenger side and the two stripped bolts on the driver side. then i can take off the manifolds, i got the y-pipe and cat off. im going to have to cut the cat off the old y-pipe though.

 

I found that the passenger side was not really that hard. It was easier to instal the passenger side compared to the drivers side. The passenger side just fell into place from the top of the motor with out having to move things out of the way, the only thing i had to do was take the fan switch out, other than that i didnt have to do anything extra that it took me to take the stock manifold out. The drivers side i had to unbolt the steering shaft. That was the hardest part of getting the headers in. Didnt have to unbolt the engine mounts and have plenty of clearance on each side.

 

first of all that must be an uncommon lucky experience

and yes i have plug wires for the 94 truck because i didnt want to cut and crimp my own wires or pay all that money for aftermarket wires. they are doing just fine, the havent melted at all. Just make sure u route them so they arent touching the headers

ok so you stripped the bolt head? have you tried wrapping a piece of paper around the bolt head and then sticking the socket over it? if that doesnt work try putting a smaller socket on it...make sure you are using 6 point sockets. if all else fails go to sears and get their stripped bolt remover set

you will need to remove that last passenger bolt from under the car

 

And keep soaking those bolts with pb blaster.

 

Well guess I"M JUST ONE LUCKY Person!!! or know what im doing take your pick lol

 

the edelbrock TES are designed differently than flowtechs and other headers. ive talked to people who have installed other brands of headers and said it was easy. but you probably know what youre doing too

 

rwdtech...you shouldn't think its bs...my headers were easy to put in on the passenger side...just had to slip the header over the Oil Dipstick, but no issues really..i think some people's motors grew over time making the header install difficult...i guess mine didn't grow that much

 

I was installing SLP headers, I know a little bit about what i am doing but i was expecting it to be hard since i know its not easy stuffing headers in there and everyone else i know that has done it says its a pain so i went in there thinking it was going to be a pain. So besides me being lucky, nothing stripping or breaking it was pretty good. As long as you take your time and dont get frustrated

 

Only advise I can offer

along with all the install stuff dont forget 1. take the next day or two off. 2. get some beer if 21. 3. learn to curse in a few diffrent languages so not to offend anyone near by.

Most important, take your time, if you rush you will forget something.

 

alright i got to work on it a little bit today. i worked on it for like an hour or so. i got the driver side manifold off and the header looks like it is going to have to go in from the bottom. the thing that killed me was those little metal clips behing the bolt on the manifolds that connect one bold to the other i had to push a little metal piece to the side that was like right on the bolt so i could get the socket on there.. i know that sounds stupid but i couldnt figure out what i was doing wrong and that was the problem. i havent messed with the passenger side too much yet, i got the heat shield off and out of the way so now i only have to take the bolts out.

i have a quick Q though... how do i take the dipstick off? i need to get it out of the way but i cant figure out how to take it off. PLEASE ANSWER QUICK B/C I NEED TO GET BACK OUT THERE AND FINISH IT UP. i cant do much with the dipstick being in the way.

 

the dip stick bolts to one of the manifold bolts. Once that is out, give the dipstick a little pull. It just slids into the block/oil pan.

 

Pulls out with a little force, be careful mine broke.

 

yes it takes quite a bit of force to get it out and its hard to get a good grip on it

good thing you got the heat shields off cause one of my heat sheild bolts got stripped and it took me forever to get off

 

 

what brand are those?

 

here's the goods, i got the parts for the tuneup today.. i got the plugwires for a 94 chevy 1500 TBI so hopefully these will work good thanks for the suggestion rwdtech... ive never done a tuneup on the car since i got it so this should livin it up a little, b/c when i got it it had sat for over 2 years.. i had a problem yesterday though... out of all the tools we have the short 9/16 6point socket is missing so i cant finish removing the passenger side exhaust manifold until i get a new socket.... gay..

 

They're regular hooker 2055 headers...I'm happy with the m so far (even though i haven't driven the car with them on yet,lol) i haven't had it out since October 2005.

 

[QUOTE=maroon88iroc]here's the goods, i got the parts for the tuneup today.. i got the plugwires for a 94 chevy 1500 TBI so hopefully these will work good thanks for the suggestion rwdtech... ive never done a tuneup on the car since i got it so this should livin it up a little, b/c when i got it it had sat for over 2 years.. i had a problem yesterday though... out of all the tools we have the short 9/16 6point socket is missing so i cant finish removing the passenger side exhaust manifold until i get a new socket.... gay..
[QUOTE]

just make sure you gap the plugs right or else your car might not perform to it's fullest and you wont notice because it will still be faster with those headers on there and poorly gapped plugs

BUILT TO LAST!! DURALAST!!