Right now I have the LG4 (P.O.S.) and want to put headers on it. I gather the 2055s are the best option from the research and that they will be plenty adequate for a 350. I'm new to engines and working on them... That being said, within the next 5 years I want to put a bigger engine, my dad is recommeding a 383. A 383 is a stroked 350???? will headers for a 350 bolt up to a 383 or are the heads different??? One 383 stroker I saw was recommending 1 7/8 for the headers... Anyone have thoughts on what to do? I don't want to spend $600 on coated 2055s only to have to sell them in a few years to get new ones.I thought since headers would help out the old LG4 in the meantime and be ready and waiting when I can afford a better engine, why not put headers on now... Thoughts and suggestions???Thanks

 

The 2055's coated work work fine. If you get a SUPER HOT 383, you might want the 1 3/4 headers for that, and you can use them now, no biggie. 1 7/8 is more like a big block header, don't think you'll find those easily (cheaply) for a SBC in a 3rd gen.
Nah, all SBC's will have the same mounting setup, and the exhaust will fit fine from the 305-350-383. Yep, 383 is a stroked 350.

 

It's not a daily driver, I want to eliminate the A.I.R. system, cat, and probably mufflers for now. The car is driven maybe a few hundred miles a year. Is there anything I need to do to run straight pipes? Back pressure issues? I saw on another post that just having headers and a little bit of a tube from there isn't a good thing.

 

Yes they will work, but I'd HIGHLY recommend long tubes. I believe the hooker part number is 2010.

The heads are only different if you buy different ones. You can take a stock L98 350, stroke it and put all the stock stuff back on. A 383 is just a stroked out crank which allows for more displacement, as well as a .30 punched out bore.

1 7/8" are a necessity for a hot 383 (450+ hp). I run 1 3/4" long tubes on my Camaro and they're just fine.

It's all about tuned length. If you're going to build a hot motor in the future, buy what you need for that motor now because it'll swap over just fine. I'd recommend nothing short of long tubes, at least 1 3/4" primary size.

Read my backpressure FAQ in the stickies at the top of the forum, it'll explain the affect of 'backpressure.'

Backpressure is basically another word for the phrase "tuned length." Tuned length refers to the effective length of your exhaust in relation to your RPM band. In a nutshell:

Shorter tuned length = more peak power at higher rpm
Longer tuned length = less peak power at a lower rpm

Here's an example (numbers aren't accurate but they'll illustrate my meaning).

A full exhaust thirdgen with shorty headers, pipes to the back and a muffler peaks at 280 rwhp at 5700 RPM. The torque comes on early and peaks out early giving the illusion of "more torque."

The same thirdgen with long tube headers and dumps half way back will peak at 300 rwhp at 6300 RPM. The torque comes on later but holds through the shift giving the illusion of "less torque."

For a street car with performance in mind I'd say go with long tubes, 2.5" true duals and a couple mufflers of your choice. That will give you optimum tuned length for fun on the street and fun on the track.

Alternatively you can run a Y-piped setup with a cutout at the end of the y-pipe for when you want to open the car up and race.

Shorter tuned length exhaust = less backpressure = more power.

 

Most people here seem to recommend the hooker 2055. What long tubes would you recommend instead? And do long tubes fit easily or is it a pain to get them in there?

 

With the long tubes you have to run true duals, which unless you really know what your doing can come out bad. Or buy that Ypipe from hawks thats made for long tubes and still use a singe exhaust.

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/in...OD&ProdID=1232

urbanhunter44, With that y pipe what will ground clearance be like?