Instalation of Hooker 2460
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Instalation of Hooker 2460
Hey, I searched through the forum and could not find what I was looking for.
I am installing Hooker 2460 headers on my 84 Z28, 305 motor. I am trying to get the passenger one on with out raising the motor, I've removed every that I can and it still will not slide down into place. I removed the Motor mount bolt last night and tryied to raise the motor to instal. The problem is as I tried to jack up the motor it kept raising the whole car.
I have not tried to bring the header up from the bottom yet.
Any advice, help, suggestions or instructions would be great.
Thanks
I am installing Hooker 2460 headers on my 84 Z28, 305 motor. I am trying to get the passenger one on with out raising the motor, I've removed every that I can and it still will not slide down into place. I removed the Motor mount bolt last night and tryied to raise the motor to instal. The problem is as I tried to jack up the motor it kept raising the whole car.
I have not tried to bring the header up from the bottom yet.
Any advice, help, suggestions or instructions would be great.
Thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 670
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Car: 1984 Camaro Berlinetta
Engine: 355
Transmission: Th-350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Instalation of Hooker 2460
Whats it hitting on?
I've got 2460's with the y-pipe(money well spent), and that hole assembly slid in like butter. It seemed the drivers side was worse with the steering column and dip-stick.
I've got 2460's with the y-pipe(money well spent), and that hole assembly slid in like butter. It seemed the drivers side was worse with the steering column and dip-stick.
Re: Instalation of Hooker 2460
Installed a set of 2460's with Hooker y-pipe this winter on a 85 IROC TPI. Passenger side was snug. Mine has a metal tube for coolant to the heater core that runs along the under the A/C assembly near the header. I had to remove the bolt that secures this tube, and zip tie it out of the way, then the header dropped in nicely. Of course, the valve covers were off to to allow manuverability and prevent damage to covers or headers. When headers were finished, I slightly 'encouraged' this tube away from the engine and header, drilled a new hole for the fastener 'tab', and secured it. Hope this helps.
BTW, I am in the process of 'modifying' the y-pipe outlet from 2 1/2 in to a full 3-in so its the same as the rest of the system back. Currently, however, these headers made a difference in all around responsiveness, and a HUGE difference at WOT from idle to redline. I was actually laughing out loud to myself the first time I hammered it in an appropriate situation (freeway). Plus, my Dynomax Ultraflow racing muffler never sounded so good.
BTW, I am in the process of 'modifying' the y-pipe outlet from 2 1/2 in to a full 3-in so its the same as the rest of the system back. Currently, however, these headers made a difference in all around responsiveness, and a HUGE difference at WOT from idle to redline. I was actually laughing out loud to myself the first time I hammered it in an appropriate situation (freeway). Plus, my Dynomax Ultraflow racing muffler never sounded so good.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Instalation of Hooker 2460
I got in last night, it was hitting on the plastice housing behind the air conditioner compressor. I put a pry bar on the motor mount from above and was able to raise the engine enough to slide it in. Will do the drivers side now. I also have the Y-pipe, can't wait to see the difference in how the car drives once all is installed.
I had to change out dip stick, went with a flexible one from Lokar Industries.
Thanks for you Feed Back!
I had to change out dip stick, went with a flexible one from Lokar Industries.
Thanks for you Feed Back!
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