I couldnt get it to flash any codes at me yesterday when I tried. Could be a problem with my ignition switch (It's very difficult to get it to turn to the ACC position), not sure yet. I'm going to give it another shot today when it's a little warmer out.

But I've got a new exhaust system on my RS. Went from stock manifolds, y-pipe, and a tiny tiny catback, to Hedman long tubes and 3 inch duals with an X-pipe. The O2 sensor is in a bung at the collector, but I worry that it's just so much farther downstream that the computer just doesnt like it, but I dont know enough about it to be able to say that the ecm would throw a code over it.

Either that or it's not getting hot enough, but I dont know why the computer would throw a code for that in open loop when the car is cold and it's not even using it. Or does the computer still pay attention to O2 sensor readings even when cold? I've got a narrowband A/F ratio gauge and it definitely is giving me really different readings than normal, so Im sure the ecm probably doesnt like it.

Ether way, the motor will be gone very soon in favor of something that can actually use this crazy *** system, but it's wanting to idle very high (1000 RPMs as opposed to around 600 like usual) so Im thinking it might be in "Limp Home Mode" using the Memcal or something. Other than it seems to run well enough. Im just curious if relocating the stock unheated O2 sensor will cause problems that quickly, or whether it's probably something else?

We did get rid of the fan switch while we were at it, since my fan is hardwired to run all the time, so I dont know if lacking a fan switch will get the ecm upset or not, but Im guessing probably not.

I know figuring out what code this thing is throwing would solve a lot of problems, but for some reason I just cant get it to do anything.

 

It was the CTS not making a good connection. Problem solved.

Just to make this post worthwhile, here's what it sounds like:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=pcMrnqWe9ms

 

Glad you got it fixed, but I wanted to mention this in case it was a code 32. The TBI engines use an EGR valve that requires backpressure in order to open. When you put a better exhaust on it, there is less backpressure available to open the EGR valve, and the computer might set a code 32. The fix is to carefully drill open the hole in the EGR valve one size larger than it is, so it can suck more vacuum.

 

Fortunately my EGR and AIR was deleted a long time ago so I didnt have to worry about that so much. But it's always good to have things like that in the thread for people who search. Saves people like me the trouble of posting a thread!

 

looks like you have some decent crawspace under those pipes. i could never get more than like 2 inches with my longtubes, so i switched to 2055s.

what mufflers you going to finish things off with? dumps?

 

Those are Moroso Spiralflows on the back there! They dont do much actual muffling though. Not too much louder than my old Flowmaster 80 at idle, and about the same at highway speeds, believe it not. These dont have that flowmaster drone. but everywhere in between they are LOUD. Sounds good though.

 

Got any good pictures of clearance etc.

 

no real clearance pics yet, i wanna get the system painted up when we do the engine swap and get some good pics of it. anyhow, here's a couple of when i installed the sfc's on his car (i did the exhaust work as well)




clearance is really good for a system this big and no modifications to the floor or subframes. we have right at 3.5" of clearance. with the way the car is setup, i doubt he'll ever bottom it out, unless he runs over some HUGE speed bumps or hits a curb or something weird like that.

 

ive been considering doing that type of setup, but with an h pipe a lil further down...i have to have cats on mine. I'm also a little worried that the hedman LT's will be a HUGE pain to put in. I've heard its either hit or miss with those headers and with the luck i have with cars, itll be a miss!