I have some of the same parts you do in my set up. I would love to get a set of dons headers in the future. Do you plan to dyno? I would love to get an idea of the power you pick up over the Edlebrocks.

 

Can anyone post pics of his headers and y-pipe installed on their cars?

 

Here is one from the bottom:

 

Can anyone comment on the differences in horsepower from a dyno don shorty 1 3/4 header to long tube 1 3/4 header?

 

wow Don, I REALLY like the way your Y-pipe tucks up closer to the body than the 2055's do. Consider me sold!!!

 

These headers are great. Don was not sure about y-pipe fitment on my 85 race car with a Canton road race pan. It was tight but fit with no issues. I wrapped the y-pipe to try to keep the oil cooler.

 

Did anyone have problems getting the bolts in on the middle primaries. I am having some issues and trying not to scratch the header itself.

 

I took a 3/8 wrench ( I had arp bolts ) and grinded the box end down to clear the primaries. It is a tight fit but that worked for me

 

Exactly what problems are you having with the middle bolts?

 

Now that I re-read it. What is the exact problem? Lol only problem I had was you can't put a socket onit

 

I noticed that it was very tight on the rear bolts of each header tube (toward the back of the motor). I found the best way to keep from scratching stuff was to start all the bolts (just a few threads) and slowly walk each bolt in. This kept things from binding up and kept my headers scratch free. I also have bolts with both 3/8" socket head and allen on the same bolt. I used an allen key to walk the headers on and then snugged everything up with either a socket if it would fit, or wrench.

 

I have had Dyno Dons for almost 2 years now and the finish is still very good and the quality of them is amazing. We also had the same problem getting a socket over the middle bolts so my buddy found these ARP header bolts that have a 3/8 thread and a 5/16 hex head that allows you to put on a 1/4 drive 5/16 hex head socket. We got the headers installed and bolted up in less than an hour. (Not including disassembly time of course).

These are the bolts:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-1110/

 

Also 100-1109 with a 6 point head.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-1109/

And thease gaskets:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-29DD3BERL/

 

I am attempting to use the 100-1201 Bolts from ARP. For gaskets I have Fel Pro 1404. The curvature to the primary APPEARS to be slightly slanted to one side, unfortunately that side is forcing my bolt in at a slight angle. I went at it first with the washer, then without. Then today switched over to hex head sockets and still have issues getting them to line up. I am walking them in slowly together. I spent an hour on just the passenger side. The 2nd bolt in on the passenger side, I cant get my hex socket or key in to tighten it.

Maybe its just my approach on mounting these headers, but I am having a couple small issues here and there and I want to make sure I get these on properly, Without anymore further damage to the primaries. Maybe I should consider this other set of ARPs....

I apologize Don, I am in no way attempting to degrade your product. I have just run into a couple issues and am looking for help to correct them.

 

Because the 1 3/4" tubes are so wide the ARP/100-1109 bolts work best.
You do have to start the tightest ones first.

 

Aaahhhh now you tell me..
Thank you, and thank you to all else who commented. Is there anything further I should be made aware of before I pull out the magical Visa?

 

As with most headers, you have to move the heater pipe a little on the right side for clearance. And move the brake lines around a little on the left, but all that is standard with header installs.

 

Right or wrong I went with 3/8-16X1 black oxide socket, (allen) head capscrews rather than the AR bolts. I believe the head diameter was a tad smaller. Then used a 5/16 ball end hex allen socket. I have a pair of 3/8 drive shorties and a long allen socket set that seem to work just fine.

 

My Allen heads were a hair wider and I couldn't get the ball end in on the 2nd bolt in from the front on the pass side. I'm goin to go.ahead and grab the 6 point sockets. Only 15 bucks.

 

I am hoping Don can make me a set of 1 3/4 long tubes for my LT1/T56. I hear that all other larger runner long tubes hit the slave assembly on manual trannies.

 

Anyone dyno back to back from a shorty and a LT? Any noticeable loss?

 

"Anyone dyno back to back from a shorty and a LT?"

As a matter of fact I have on an engine dyno. Below peak torque in this case 5000rpm the long tube headers had an edge. Above peak torque and in this case from 5000rpm to 6500rpm the long tube headers averaged just at a 1hp advantage. These were Dyno Don short tube headers that were actually going in my car versus the long tube engine dyno headers. I have a thread on this here on 3rd Gen.

 

Were the long tubes headers Hooker 2210's?

Post a link to that thread please.

 

They were 1 3/4" long tube and that is all I know. Here is a link to the thread.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...long-tube.html

 

From talking to Don on the phone, there is not a noticeable enough difference to justify long tubes, especially if installing the long tubes is a pain in the butt, due to tranny swaps. He said long tubes aren't worth the hassle and extra cost, unless you're building an all out race car, and even then he doesn't think it's really worth it.

That makes sense to me, being that his shorter headers are still 1 3/4" in diameter.

He told me that his 355 puts out over 405 whp, and he is using his headers. That's some nice power to the wheels for a 355.

He also cleared up the myth of the "true dual" exhaust for me, telling me it really is not worthwhile to do a true dual exhaust on our cars.

He knows what he's talking about, as he has been involved in racing and exhaust systems/headers for 40 years or something like that, and he has tested all sorts of different combinations.

I'm sold, and I'm going to go with his headers and Y-pipe on my LT1 383 The cost of custom headers to fit around my T56 is ridiculous and not worth it, according to Don, and I believe him.

I have heard too many different opinions about this whole mess, and I decided I'm going to listen to Don, since he has the most experience, of all the guys I've talked to about headers and exhausts.

 

Curious to know why not?

 

I'm not sure. Don just told me that true duals are overkill for most of our cars and that they aren't really worth the hassle. They sound better, usually, but they're not needed.

 

I have Don's 1 3/4 hi rise headers jet coated with his Y into a dual 3" mandrel cat back with a cross flow master. I recently have both sides of the headers leaking and my tube to the dual cats are leaking. With Don's headers on the passenger side front tube 2nd bolt back is real tight and it is a shorter 12 point, and I don't have any tool that will tighten it. So Im having a good friend bring some tools. I hope the gaskets are ok, I had the best put in. Also with leaks like this you can fail smog. I didnt pass smog the last time I had the car on the road, then everything was sealed. How ever if any one knows that ball under the front fender well that round plastic ball that a hose goes there. What that is and does it have anything to do with smog. I found it with the hose off.

 

Just got my Dyno Don headers and y-pipe, and I have to say they look amazing. Does anyone have any recommendations for header bolts and gaskets, by the way these are going on aluminum heads also.

 

See post #63 in this thread.

 

Thanks, I can't believe it didn't see that.

 

Question about difficulty on installation to those of you who have these. I have heard certain headers are extremely difficult to install without pulling the motor. What about these?

 

No need to pull the motor I got mine in ok jut a tight fit. don will tell you what needs adjusting to get them in.

 

I didnt have any issues putting mine in. Both sides went in from the top and I use Earl's pressure master gaskets. Got about 3k on my LT1 conversion and havent had a leak from anything I got from Don. My magnaflow system leaks in a few spots, but I am still using clamps.

 

Post #67 might help you.

 

hot exhaust gases flow better then cold/warm. single 3.5 mandrel will outflow dual 3 inch kinked any day of the week.

 

Don, I sent you an e-mail through this site asking a few question, I forgot to ask one, do the headers come with the plug for the O2 sensor?

 

A bung yes (in the left header), a plug, no.

 

Would I be able to use the stock sensor, or would I have to buy a new one? I just want to know everything I need to have before I buy the big part.

 

If your O2 sensor is good then you don't have to buy a new one. If you want a wideband O2 sensor then you can get one of those instead but it's more $$.

 

what size are his collectors and y-pipe? are they 2 1/2", 2 3/4", 3"? very intersted in them, getting tired of my ugly, leaky, hookers. and i have sub frame connectors i havent installed yet because my y-pipe goes out too far. (rinky dink exhaust shop made my y-pipe) so would don's y-pipe leave ample enough room from the pinch weld to install my subframe connectors?

 

I believe they are 2.5 collectors. I see that you have a 383sbc, in my opinion these wont work for you(or me either)

The collector needs to be at least 3". The headers that I have now are hedman shorties and they have 3" collectors. I cant see myself going down in size even tho the primary is bigger.

You had long tube 2210 hookers before?

 

i cant remember the part # of the headers i have. but they arnt longtubes. i got them a long time ago. but they have 3" collectors, and are hookers competition shorties as stated in a summit or jegs catalog. im just sick of them, and very sick of the y-pipe i have (kinks all over). i almost wouldnt mind downsizing it a bit considering my 3" collectors get reduced to 2.5" anyway going into the shitty y-pipe

 

Yah my collectors are 3" and merge into a single 4" to the back.

Just upgrade your y-pipe to 3", unless your headers are rusted or leaking.

There are just no good options for 3rd gens and headers (unless you sacrifice alot of ground clearance)

 

my headers arent rusted or anything. but the collector flange doesnt seem true and flat anymore. so i would have to pull them out, mill it, ect. but i would be willing to keep them if i could find a 3" y-pipe. but every exhaust shop iv ever talked to say f-that, it wont fit or it will cost me an arm and a leg for them to attempt it. im sure someone out there has one (maybe oval pipe). but i just a want the smooth mandrel bends without kinks and good ground, and subframe clearance.

 

I have cars out there using my headers and Y-pipe and 383's putting down more than 400 HP to the rear wheels.

 

roughly how many inches away is your y-pipe from the pass side pinch weld don? and is the exit from the y-pipe 2.5" as well? i wouldnt mind a 2.5" collector, and y-pipe, but i want the intermidiate pipe to be larger like 3".

 

Don's headers made 403whp/439wtq in a Super Ram 406sbc with an old school SLP 3in cat-back system. The other engine componets are the same as yours. So I think they will work without all the hassel.

 

Most SFC's will clear, I will try and get a measurement for you.
The y-pipes are 2 1/2" into a 3" collector that goes to the cat.

 

I can happily say i am one of those cars,,,Thx Don....