I'm on the verge of ordering a set of Jet Hot Hooker 2055's but I pretty much need my dad's stamp of approval since he was a GM mechanic when 3rd gens came out and will be the one who will be doing most of the work of installing them. My current exhaust setup is set up for Hooker 2055s (my foresight is pretty good! ).... I have a magnaflow 3" catback and the 3" direct fit magnaflow (carsound) slip fit catalytic converter, which as it currently sits is attached to a reducer that connects the 3" cat to my lousy 2 1/4" y-pipe.

So, that being said:
1) What is the basic process for installing the headers. What needs to be removed from the engine bay to make the install as painless as possible?

2) Once we detach the reducer/stock y-pipe, does the new one just slip right in? or do i have to drive to an exhaust shop w/ open headers and have them install the y-pipe and hook it to the cat?

3) What else needs to be purchased for the install? I've heard things about gaskets and header bolts (along with changing spark plugs)...So what are some recommendations for good gaskets and bolts, and is there any specific type of spark plug i should be using w/ headers (shorty plugs or something like that)?

Any help (either a response or a link to an older topic) would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thise are the shortys right? They will go in from the top, might have to lift the motor on the pass side and remove the bolt and separate the steering shaft on the driver side.

 

lol let me tell you its gonna be a fun two day project atleast, but with help its a one day if someone tells you,
First, remove the altnerator, smog pump on the top forget whats that called. Remove the a/c brackets and all and power steering pump. Its gonna be easier to unbolt both motor mounts. I had a hard time removing one bolt on the manifold but thats not whats involved. I removed anything that looked like it could get in the way a/c accumulator, power steering pump, alternator, a/c pump, smog lines, also while you have everything outta the way go ahead and put new plugs in. if i remember correctly you might have to go from the bottom of the car to remove the last bolts of the manifold in the back. have fun and let us know how it goes.

 

Holy crap, i have installed 10 or more sets and never had to do all that!

 

Yea that sounds like an aweful lot of work. With a 92 im guessing you have the serpintine set-up. It shouldn't be that hard and im sure you can get by without taking basically your whole belt drive off. Ill look at my set-up tomorrow and get back with ya.

 

Shadow, let me know! I have a feeling if I tell my dad that we're gonna have to take pretty much every accessory thing out of the engine bay hes gonna say "No Way!"

Does anyone have any suggestions about gaskets...Would i use the ones that come with the headers or get better ones from summit (percys, etc.)?

 

Get better gaskets, aluminum percys or copper Mr Gaskets that the autoparts carys.



I have NEVER had to remover ANY accesories when i have done SEVERAL header installs. One exception was the PS pump on a 85 camaro which didnt have the serp system.


Goodluck!

 

Ok went and took a look at my engine bay today. I have the non ac heater box so the passenger side on mine is a breeze. All you have to do is remove the AC bracket thats connected to one of the header bolts. If you have the AC you might have to jack up the passenger side of the engine and go in from underneith. Not sure. The driver side you can disconnect the steering shaft and bolt them in from up top. No accssories to unbolt on that side. Good luck.

 

If you don't want your coated hookers to rust....

#1 never start your car with them on
#2 never get them wet

I am on my 3rd set from summit and these rusted within a month just like the others. I wish i would have put that $200 somewhere else.

 

well yea taking off all that BS is just gonna make it easier, trust me. you can prolly leave all that stuff on but its gonna be a hard time, hope you have small hands then. and what are you talking about 3rd set??? of 2055's? no way, stop ordering that summit junk and get some better headers, or get em ceramic coated. if you want a cheaper way, use header wrap, im sure that stuff works. also if you go to summit and click on the hooker 2055's at the bottom of the page it will have an instructions guide by HOOKER and also click on the "recommended parts" tab on the summit link it will tell you what you might need, I.E. HEADER BOLTS, GASKETS, ETC. like it was mentioned above it might take a few days but hey, im sure it worth it. im putting these exact ones on when i get back from south america in a month and a half..cant wait. let us know how it goes!

 

Powder coated headers don't rust like that... maybe painted headers. Painted headers are supposed to rust... they just paint em to protect them until you install them. You should get 4-5 years daily driving "painted" headers after the surface rust develops. Bottom line is they're supposed to be cheap... not pretty.

 

Somebody on here suggested this for painted headers:

1) drive for a few days or weeks untill all the paint burns off, and the raw metal is exposed but not alot of rough surface rust yet

2) get them nice and hot from a short drive

3) take a thick rag soaked in ATF, and wipe them all down with the ATF residue, while hot.

4) Let them cool for a little while so the ATF can soak into the metal and coat it against rust, then go drive again to bake it on.

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Now, I was considering getting the 2055's. However, after reading all the stuff that you need to remove, it makes me want to not get them anymore.

I have A/C, and let me tell you even though it doesent work right now, it will some day. And I want to save that 1/2 charge of R-12 I still have left in the lines - its worth its weight in gold.

If you can slide them in from underneath, how do you go about lifting the engine? Do you need a cherry picker? Or will a floor jack work? This car is my daily, so it would have to be a 1-2 day weekend project for myself to do.

 

Well, with full length headers i have just removed the starter and oil filter(and slave cylinder on my T5) and the fit right in from below.

 

I have 2055 Headers on my 84 T/A with V-belts and A/C. I had to loosen the A/C bracket (on drivers side on my car) which also holds the power steering pump. The drivers side dropped right in and bolted town without a problem. The passenger side on mine was the beeotch.... Loosened the Smog pump and Alternator bracket on the side of the motor, and if I recall properly, also had to loosen them a bit on the front just to be able to move them around. Then I had to remove ALL of the smog stuff, (hoses and Air Diverter valve) in order to get down on it though you probably don't have to, it made it easier. The headers will fit from the top, but in order to get to the last bolt on the passenger side near the firewall, because of the A/C dryer box, you'll need REALLY small hands, or to go up from the bottom. To do that, I had to jack the car up (which you'll need to do anyway to get the Y-pipe on), and go up through the bottom to get that last bolt. IT's a PITA....trust me. I spent more than 3 hours on that one alone trying to get it tight...not to mention RE-Tightening it after driving it for a few days.

Putting the Y-pipe on is a snap, it just bolts up and then with the slip on cat...cake.

Then all there is to do is re-connect it all and start her up. Drive it for a few days and then go back in and re-tighten all your header bolts down because they will loosen up. Once you do this once or twice, they should be set.

As for gaskets, I would not use the ones that come with it. I would get one of those Percey's aluminum gaskets...they're like 4 layers of aluminum that crush down when you tighten the bolts on the headers. They work way better than the Mr. Gasket copper seal gaskets IMHO.


Also, don't use the standard bolts that come with it. Get the same size bolts, but get the ones with the 3/8 head on them. The head is smaller but the thread and bolt are otherwise the same so it'll be easier to put on. This was something I did when I went to re-tighten them and wished I had done it initially.

Last thing, you will want to get a wire-loom to route your plug wires or you'll have a hard time keeping your plug wires from resting on the header tubes and melting. This was another something I wish I had known when I first did it. Arcing plug wires are no fun to deal with.

Hope this helps!

 

My hooker 2460's ARE ceramic coated. That is what i wanted to warn everyone about The 1st set i got had surface rust on them when i opened the box. $389 for a set of shortie headers!!

As for installing them i removed my plugs 1 side went right in from the bottom and 1 from the top. Can't remember which.

these have about 500 miles on them.....

 

Hoogabooga, I'd be contacting Hooker themselves and asking what is up.

 

Dude where are you getting these coated at? Send them to jethot, they'll hook you up.

 

Wow! That clarifies a lot. Thanks!! With all of this information I'm gonna run it by my dad and make sure hes up for it and hopefully order the headers within the next few days...

 

Those are what chrome headers look like, are sure they are ceramic? Ceramic costs more than 389$. My hooker super comps were 750$ coated.

 

This is what i ordered.... $369



http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Keep an eye on them so you don't get screwed. I know summit only gives a 90 day warranty.

 

Wow, that is not supposed to happen.

 

I used the same headers but not the coated ones, just the painted 2460's. Put about 20,000 miles on and still have paint on them. But first i sprayed the inside and out of both headers and Y-pipe with black ultra-high-heat paint. I put 3 or 4 coats on. Car is a daily driver of 60-80 miles a day. BTW after removing the air pump crap " because lack of tubes on 2460's," They were the easest things to install. Came up from bottom on pass. side. Removed starter first. Had MAJOR room to install. Driver side was easy too, from topside.You should have NO problem with these at all. I'm sure your ceamic ones will hold up great. Best money I ever spent, I'm sure the extra paint I used made a huge difference. You'll love the sound too!!!! No problems from removing airpump and diverter valves/tubes...just MORE engine bay room!!!

 

so did you ever get permission from your dad to get these? you nver told us the outcome