This is my header/Y-pipe setup:

Hedman Hedders 68470 shorty headers


Hedman Hedders 17478 ball/socket Y-pipe


How long would this take a few people to install? One doesn't know jack **** (me) and the other knows a little (my friend Laura). I've got a really nasty exhaust leak somewhere in the factory manifolds/Y-pipe area and it can't be driven until it gets fixed.

 

Can be done in a day - couple hours on your own - not much for another set of hands to do really but get in the way.

 

Just jack it up and have at it....Good luck!

 

The time it takes really depends on luck and what you plan to do. Removing the stock cat from the Y-pipe is a real pain in the ***. I highly reccomend replacing it when you do the swap that way you can drop it and the Y-pipe together. You are probably going to destroy it's usefulness anyway when trying to free it from the Y-pipe; its like 5 inches deep in the thing and heavily coated in deposits. Use liquid wrench (or whatever your flavor is) on the cat bolts because the threads are exposed to corrode and get full of debri.

Removing the valve covers helps a lot when you are dropping the headers in.

Set aside a full day to do this job but it could be done in 5 hours. Having a competent helper on this one IMO will speed things up considerably.

Don't forget to install a O2 bung in the drivers side header if you still have the LG4 computer. Heated O2 sensor will save you a LOT of headaches, my LG4 was constantly in and out of open/closed loop until I converted to the heated sensor.

Awesome looking car you got there. I surely wouldn't do a hack job install on it.

 

I would start soaking the bolts right now on the cat and manifolds. Get some Kroil if possible, if not PBblaster or liquid wrench. Put it on the bolts several times. That will definately help some.

 

The biggest pain is getting them damn tabs off the bolts on the stock manifolds. Get ready for a few knuckle busters and some frustration. I did mine on the ramps which was helpful. I did them over a 2 day period on the weekend with the help of a friend. It will take anywhere form 4 - 8 hrs depending on who helps. Your starter will need to come out as well. The extra added performance is well worth it. Get yourself a 3" cat and 3" catback while your at it!

 

You had to drop the starter? What headers did you install?

You are right on about the performance I would swear it knocked over a second off of the cars quarter mile time doing full exhaust. When you get down there and see the pipes GM installed it all makes sense why it's so much better.

 

I installed a used set of Hooker 2055's. I had to remove the starter to get the passenger side header in. Once it was in place we bolted the starter back in. I guess it may be possible to do it with the starter in depending on the header, but the extra room with it removed is nice.

 

Starters easy enough to remove too. I wasn't saying you shouldn't have just wondering what headers you used. I can definitely see that working.

The first header install I did we couldn't get the passenger side header in for nothing, it was these headman's too. Removing the motor mount bolt and jacking the motor up an inch they just fell right in. Keep an eye on the distributor cap if you try it this way, you don't want to smash it by jacking the motor up too much.

Later I found that removing the valve pan is much easier. Even more so with the smog equipment out of the way.

 

getting the old manifold bolts out were the hardest for me since they were well beyond rusted. may help to try and loosen them up before hand. pb blaster, liquid wrench, etc is going to be very helpful on getting the old exhaust loosened up

 

in the sticky "those with 2055's come on in" i gave a step by step on puttin my headers in. you have different ones but the install should be the same. good luck. i agree with the power boost.