Following the directions that came with the 2055's, I've had no problems installing my new headers, until now. It says to raise the right side of the motor as much as 3" after taking out the right side motor mount bolt. Problem is, my motor mounts seem to be stuck.

Jacking up the car under the oil pan resulted in the whole car moving up, while the motor mount bolt still freely goes in and out. I tried taking off both motor mount bolts and doing it again, but with the same result. Are my motor mounts stuck to my block? I can't imagine the engine being jacked up under the oil pan not moving off the mounts just from the transmission bolts. Any ideas?

Also, any ideas on how to install the passenger side header without moving the engine are apprecited.

As for my car, it has no smog of any kind, but has full AC and heater. I unbolted the AC from the bracket, but it seems like the header is stuck on the block and the AC box that goes into the firewall.

As of right now, the header is about 4 inches from it's proper location. So close, yet so far...

 

yeah if the 2055 are the shortys I'm sure they are ( I think I have the same ones, just drop the starter and install it from the bottom. You have to do the same way weather you install or remove them. (I just did that last weekend to get them recoated) drivers side from the top. The pas side from the bottem. (didn't have to unbolt the motor either time.)

 

btw make you sure you get all the wires undone from the starter siloniod (sp?) undone before dropping the starter. I thought I did but left one bolted on, and had to hulk up and hold the starter with one hand as I fished with the other in my tool box to get the right wrench for it lol. Didn't want to break the wire, man that thing was heavy lol.

 

oh hey one last thing then I'll leave you alone lol. Once your done make sure you get some wire ties, and make sure you pull/tie any wires from your wiring harness as far as possible from your headers cause it not you'll cook'em.

 

Figured out what was wrong, I didn't have the motor up high enough to get it off the suspension...but I still had to wiggle it a bit. I feel like an idiot lol. I dropped both sides in from the top, but worked half of the bolts and spark plugs + wires from the bottom. So far it's all good, except a broken temp sensor that I'm replacing tomorrow, and one header bolt that I can't get a wrench on (Cylinder #8 outside, the farthest back), any help with that?

 

I invested in a couple of different wrenches from sears for it lol got one of those fancy long wrench where the box end is a socket. You may want to invest in some stage 8 bolts also, cause they have a allen head along with the regular bolt. (makes thing easier). The Wrenches are a good idea due to the fact that your going to have to tighting your headers a couple of times, cause if not your header bolts will back out. By the way did you got with shorty plugs or regular ones?

 

Regular, and I'm regretting it lol. Autolite 26's. Didn't even cross my mind. Luckily, they have a modified spark plug socket at the shop at work, and it was able to slip in between the tubes and the plug. It's basically a normal 5/8" spark plug socket cut down, and a 3/4" wrench on the end to tighten it.

 

accell has shorty plugs they work really well, they'll help give you some addition clearance so you don't burn up your boots. Autozone normally have them in stock. Yeah I got a spark plug socket cut down also, man it helps.

 

You should never jack up an engine by the oil pan. I can't tell you how many caved in oil pans I've seen at my shop because of people doing that.