id like to share my experience with hedman longtube hedders and the company.i recently purchased a set of longtubes from a third party for my84 z/28.i thought it would be a good idea to add the longtubes because the 400 sbc is making around 400-450 hp and i didnt want to choke it with 1 1/2 inch tube shorties.the hedmans looked like a good deal at around 240.00.when they came they looked pretty solid though they are still pretty short for long tubes,i guess due to the ride hight and space confines.i have custom built several sets of headers from different kits but for the price these were a steal....so i thought.the instructions say to jack the car up and install from the bottom.nothing about taking the engine loose,but i know this is standard fare for this .http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst.../500-68460.pdf
see above install instructions.also nothing about having to cut my a arm brackets or denting my tubes or any of that.but these thing rub everywhere.

 

so after alot of inspecting and trying to figure out how to fix this ,i decided to search the internet to see if any one else has this problem.low and behold there are threads everywhere on this.had i known this i would have either just made my own or bought a different brand.so i called the tech line at hedman to discuss the prob they said send us pics of the header hitting and we will check it out.to see if there was a problem in production .after sending the pics and the date code i was sure they would say "thats not right" but instead i recieved an email this morning to say that they dont really have any complaints from anyone on these and they dont get any returns so it must be isolated incidents.i sent them links to the forum posting of how poorly they fit .they said "it must be like the mustangs were the frame moves around".what? the front crossmember is the mount for the lower arms ,the mount to lower arm relationship cant just move around.the hedders dont fit,thats the problem.so after 40 plus years of relationship with hedman i say farewell.to bad because i try to support the american built companies.when i get the header refabricated i will post pics of the repair ,till then heres pics of the horrible fit.

 

more

 

i had to ding one tube on each side to clear the subframe- on the rear of one tube on the driver's side, on the front of one tube on the passenger side, so it wasn't an issue with my $8 Pakistani motor mounts- which i thought was a simple thing given the hell i've gone thru with other headers. try putting a set of $600 coated Hooker Super Comps on a 69 Camaro with a 454 and power steering if you want fun.

in this case, it took me longer to get all the bolts started than it took me to actually put the headers up in the car. i thought they fit quite well for a set of cheap long tubes that don't hang any lower than the frame rails of the car.

 

I have Hedman on my GTA they fit fine.

 

My Hedman's fit with some minor tweaks. Drivers side was the worst passanger side went right in.

 

i had a 468 bbc in my 86 z,hooker was the only ones who made headers at the time,they were tight.i have seen posts were these fit fine and posts were people say they dont fit very well too.i know these dont fit well at all,could be the header was put together wrong. inkow this car wasnt wrecked and the mounts are all gm,stock heads so i dont know whats up.either way ill get it resolved ,just wanted to share some info

 

Ive got the same headers and so far i have the passenger side in perfect. Haven't had the patience to sit and throw in the other side, i see no issue though, i bought them with the car because he had them on it once before. ( prefitment lol ) Anyhow, passenger clears frame by like 1/4 in lol

 

I love mine. Had to dimple one primary to clear the steering box and had to cut off a small tab near the a-arm mount that isnt really important. After reading through the process of installing the Hooker 2210s, the hedmans seem like a piece of cake.



Really surprised you're having an issue with the passenger side. The only problem I have there is just getting them in, but once they're in they fit fine.

 

Headman 68460 fit passenger side of 87 TA but hit A arm mount on drivers side, very close to suspension member and oil filter. Use short filter. There isn't a lot of room for errors the way pipes are routed. Removed starter sensors and plugs. Installed from bottom. Have not solved problem. Thinking of shimming motor mounts. NS

 

it's called "modifying" for a reason

 

Had to cut the starters mounting flange on mine to make them clear, aftermarket high torque starter. Ordered mine from Summit, came with a dent in the collector. Not happy bout that.

 

I had to cut the corner off of my drivers side control arm, dent in a small portion of the drivers side header, and oblong every mounting hole. The ebay headers I had before the hedmans put them to shame.

 

I had a set of hedman block hugger longtubes in my 88 firebird with a 400sbc that sucked, pass side had to drop in with motor and driver side had to come up from under the car. They both touched the frame and made engine act like solid engine mounts.

 

Doug's longtubes fit great but need to put them in with motor and pricey $620 jegs! 1.75"primaries 3"collectors and not the short economy collector either!.

 

I recently had a set of Hedman shorties installed on my 305. It took longer to drill out broken manifold studs than it did to install the headers themselves.

as far as fitment, the triangular flange at the ball and socket y pipe junctions on both sides rubbed on the k member and vibrated the entire car at idle. Installing new motor mounts solved the problem, no denting tubes required.

only other issue was the Hedman y pipe itself. When initially installed, the pipe physically rested on my oil pan where it crosses over to the passenger side and was causing dangerously low oil pressure when idling in traffic because it was heating the oil pan so much. Re-did the y pipe, put in a fresh oil pump and ran thicker oil and now I hold 30 psi idling in traffic even when it's hot out.

overall I'm very happy. Nice boost in low end torque

 

Same success as 88BlackFormula:


easy install on the shorties, even with my Z-bar


My Y pipe isnt that close to worry about.


The last set of the same part number lasted 25 years.....

 

just got mine installed the other day, easy as pie, took less than an hour to do, and only had to dent one tube about a quarter inch and cut part of a arm bracket about half inch

 

I just installed a set on our '92 and the drivers side was no problem, although I did have to swap to the short oil filter. The passenger side was hard against the A-arm bracket and had to have one tube dented. I find it hard to believe Hedman has never had this complaint, I knew when I purchased them just from reading the reviews on Summits website.

 

I've tried 3 kinds of long tubes in different F bodies, and while the hedmans were the best quality, they fit the worst.

If you have an auto car with a stock crossmember (and ONLY an auto car) and are on a budget, there are stainless no-name chinese long tubes on eBay that come with the y-pipe/intermediate pipe and clamps. They cost about the same as the hedman ones, and fit better because they dont have a flange joint for the collectors. You can use the rest of the stock exhaust because the 3" y pipe outlet will fit on the long pipe that runs down the length of the car with a reducer. Used in conjunction with a mini starter, I trimmed one A-arm mount corner, and they fit great.

 

I was tossing the idea of the cheap stainless Amazon ones, I'm sure it's the same ones, chose hedman for quality. I plan on doing a 5 or 6 speed in my car probably next winter, they say these won't fit standards, assuming it's due to the slave cylinder? Why can't get a hydraulic throw out bearing? The only thing down there would be 2 hoses.

 

Not exactly,
The eBay/amazon stainless long tubes say they will only fit autos because of the crossmember location.
There are 6 holes (two positions) for the crossmember, one front and one rear. I found that out the hard way. Tried to bash the intermediate pipes to fit but I garentee you it is impossible, they just aren't bent right to clear the crossmember in the T5 (manual/standard) position. I wanna say that is the front set of the holes but would have to get under my car to look....
If you have an aftermarket tubular crossmember, I can for sure tell you that the eBay long tubes kit will NEVER fit ANY trans mount location.

I would highly recommend the hydraulic throwout bearing. So easy to install, and you can use the rest of the stock hydraulic clutch system. Got mine from speedway as cheap as possible, like $200 all in. You'll need an adapter fitting for the master.
Yes, there are only two hoses sticking out of the bellhousing and you might even be able to route the intermediate pipes OVER the crossmember (which is probably preferable in a low third gen). Im sure someone has done it with a T-5 because it's so small.

 

Can you please share your header back set up?
I got theses same tubes. I dont do emissions so i dont think im going to keep the cat, unless i absolutely have to but iv heard there is no y pipe and best bet is H or X pipe but i would like to know what i need to get it done, any chance i can buy the tube and put it together my self without too much modification? Here is a pic of someone with theses headers on theses cars i got off summit racing