So what is the preferred method to fix vband leaks? Buy gaskets from cometic? Weld some ID pipe inside the tube so it sticks into both ends 3/4" ?

-- Joe

 

first step is to true up the flanges with a file or belt sander , if they still leak just put some copper seal on the flange faces

u can if all else fails weld some tubing on the inside

 

Not much you can do. They are suppose to be true to work but welding can shift them around. Even if you kept heat low sometimes they leak alittle. Hard to put anything on them and install to keep from leaking.

If you could somehow have a shop machine them after weld to a high grade flat surface finish they may have a chance

 

Ugg. They got red when I welded them, so I'm sure they are all warped. wtf.

Maybe that harbor freight 48" belt sander would be a good purchase.

Hey, on another note, have you ever welded o-rings to header flanges? These flanges don't wanna seel all that well either. I was thinking of welding orings around the ports, then putting the whole flange on the belt sander to true it up.

-- Joe

 

I did have a shop do my header flanges on their belt sander. Worked well. No orings.

If it isnt to bad try remflex gasket. It eats up minor imperfections in the flange

 

I tightened it a little more tonight. The flange on the #8 primary is a little warped.

The biggest problem is vbands. I checked it tonight. So the vband on my turbo is not parallel. I'm hoping I can losen the turbo and tighten the vband then I can tighten the T4 flange back down. If that fails I guess I'll put a flex on the DP so the turbo vband won't get out of alignment.

Both vbands on the crossover leak. From 5 minutes of running I got soot on them. I'll take the crossover and hit it with the belt sander. I guess both headers I can hit with a flat file or something so I don't have to take them off the engine again.

The WG flange leaks, it's crowned. again, I guess flat file.

-- Joe

 

and everyone always asks me why i prefer 3 bolt or 4 bolt header flanges on my turbo systems , not syaing vbands arent nice but when they dont seal they can be a real headache

as for the header flanges not sealing u can always cut the flanges between the primarys makes it alot easier for the bolts to pull the flange solidly against the head and seal better

 

That's the first thing I tried. So I've got 3 individual flanges. But with aluminum heads, I don't like tightening the bolts too much with risk of pulling the threads out. The 2, 4, 6 primaries seem good. #8 warped a bit so the right side is slightly raised. I tightened it a little more last night (with a short wrench) so hopefully that will do the trick.

The vbands are the big issue now..

-- Joe

 

That's why I always weld the V bands in short sections spaced apart and flat on a large surface or even the 2 halves clamped together. However, lately I have been using interlocking V bands, they are so much nicer. Easier to line up and no leaks. I do always use red rtv on them during final assembly.

Here's an example, these are so nice and thick. They are also made so that the exhaust turinb itself falls INTO a register on the V band, easier to weld, less chance of warping because you are nut welding (and pulling during cooling) against a possible not 100% straight cut end. During assembly the 2 halves dont shift and the sections will always be 100% properly orientated



On the primaries, I would install some studs. I know they make installing the headers a pita but if you get studs with a hex drive you can turn them in like a bolt and when all the way in tighten the nut and spread the load without pulling threads.

 

The most obvious thing to note in that picture is that one of the lamps is out. If only you paid more attention to details!

 

I try to weld my vbands connected where possible. If not then i weld slowly. Lay a small bead section on one side and flip over 180 deg lay bead there. Maybe let cool abit if starts getting real hot. Try not to let it get to much heat


How bad a leak are you talking? A few of mine still leak but its minor and i let it slide

 

Probably 1/16th inch deflection. I'm mean, it's good enough that a part adjacent to the vband is covered in soot from 5 minutes of running.

Unfortunately, I had surgery on an eye today so I'm out of commission for a day or so. (if I even attempt going in the garage with half my vision I'm bound to lose a hand).

I'm tempted to weld up some pipe to stick inside the 2 1/2" pipes. That I think would essentially kill the leak potential. Do they make tubing with an OD to fit inside a 2.5" pipe?

-- Joe

 

The most obvious thing to note in your post is that you are an azzhat and the post adds nothing of value.

 

Well a close up of those special v bands would be nice lol thats the first time i heard of them

 

Search google images for interlocking v band

 

I found a ball/socket collector set in my shop, so I think I'm gonna take the manifold off and replace the vband with that.

While I'm there, I think I'm gonna redo the #8 primary so it loops up and back down, that way I could get a socket on the bolt rather than a small wrench.

And while I'm there, might as well move the crossover back so I can run a normal spark plug.

Round 3!

-- Joe

 

Hey I know this thread is kinda older but...

Joe, did you ever use the ball/socket collector? How did it work out?

Reason I ask, is I am throwing around the idea to use those collectors on the turbo headers I want to build. First turbo setup was 3 bolt collectors plagued with leaks. Remflex gaskets fixed that. This time I'm going to build my own and I wanted to use the ball and socket collectors.

 

Yes I did. I threw all the vbands in the trash, except for the one that actually is on the turbo itself (since it's part of the housing).

Using flowmaster ball and socket flanges. They don't leak, and i've had my exhaust on and off a few times with no hassle. I am using one butt connector for now because I'm space limited between the trans and the frame rail. But it's in a straight section of pipe. I could technically weld the pipe but then I'd have a 5 foot long downpipe that would be a nightmare to snake on and off.


-- Joe

 

Thanks for the reply. My downpipe and whole exhaust (or half exhaust, lol), has 3 vbands and only the one on the back of the turbo has a slight leak. Those and the three bolt collectors suck if they arent perfect.

 

Yeah I used to think vband was great but they do suck. The one on my turbo has a slight tick as well. I have like 1/4" though between it and my valve cover so not a lot of room. I might just weld some pipe to the turbo and use a butt connector.

-- Joe

 

I have heard that putting a small piece of pipe inside the clamp, like you said works really well. I would but the dp vband has a smaller id then the flange on the turbo. To fix mine I am cutting a 3bolt flange gasket(copper mr gasket with the raised ring) to fit the vband. We will see how that one does.

 

Well it still wanted to leak so I loosened it some and loosened the 4 bolt turbo flange and gave it a tweak and it sealed up for now.

 

I tried alittle copper rtv on the flanges before assembly and seemed to help.