Can the studs connecting the manifolds to the pipes be unbolted and replaced, or are they pressed into the manifolds? Mine are pretty rusty, and I've seen them break off before when you try to unbolt them. It'd be nice to put new studs in so I know I can drop my exhaust any time with no worries. Plus, is THIS what I would need? If so, why does eBay show two different sizes in the sets? If this is wrong, or won't work, let me know. Exhaust is just another thing I'm in the process of learning.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Flange-Stud-and-Nut-Front-Dorman-03100-/391052558339?fits=Year%3A1992%7CModel%3AFirebird&hash=item5b0c8c8003&vxp=mtr

 

look it up at www.dormanproducts.com and see if you can find it at a local parts store... if they don't have it, they can get it in a day.

the original studs like to break when you try to take them out, so take the manifold out of the car, get the metal around the studs as close to red hot as you can, and use a pipe wrench clamped around the stud as close as you can to the flange and turn it out with steady pressure on the wrench: if you jerk it, the odds of the stud breaking off do up.. you want to use a pipe wrench instead of something like a Vise Grip because it grips tighter as you put more pressure on it and it's almost impossible to slip once it bites in..

 

longer studs on the right side to accommodate the EFE or spacer

Burn the old ones out if they're broken off. Quick and easy.

 

So I'm correct that these are the studs that connect the manifolds to the down pipes that lead to the cats? Those are what I'm concerned about. I don't have any immediate plans to take the manifolds off the head, but if I need to change an oil pan or starter, etc, it'd be nice to know I can easily do it. It had also occurred to me that they might just as easily break off when I'm trying to change them too, so it might be better to leave them alone until I HAVE to drop the exhaust. But still, if these are the right studs, I wanted to know to have them handy when I'm doing the job. Thx.