Were on the y-pipe should I weld the bung for my A/F ratio gauge(AEM). I was thinking about using the stock location bung on the hookers but doesn't seem like a good spot to get an accurate reading from both banks .

 

Mounting in the y-pipe will place it too far down in the exhaust stream. The O2 sensor, in this kind of application , is generally placed in the collector where it's in close proximity to the ends of the primaries and is about as hot as it can get. Yes, you only get one bank of data to work with but it's accurate data.

 

I mean, there's at ton of dyno shops that temporarily put the WB o2 at the end of your muffler w/ test pipe extension. Not sure why mounting it at the merge before the cat would cause any problems. I guess it wouldn't be as "instant" since the air has to travel a but farther but.. you do get both banks. It's only driving a gauge, not the ECM, so that .01 second difference probably won't matter.

 

I put mine on the opening flange of my Cat. Right after my Y pipe. I had my Y pipe coated so I didn't want to weld on it. It works great with my FAST wide band mobile unit. I can shut the passenger door to hold the wiring and it reads great. then I removed it and installed a threaded plug.

 

Instructions say to install bung 18 inches(45 cm) downstream from the cylinder heads exhaust ports. So on the 2055 Y-pipe were would be the best location for it to last and get great readings.?

 

collector, tip pointed down.

 

I have an ls swap with long tube headers. I also have hp tuners. My headers and most of the other ones that I have seen have the 02 bung right up to the merge point of the header, at the very front of the collector. HP tuners says to put the wideband at least 6 inches down from the merge point so you do not read just one exhaust port. For me that meant after the collector completely. Keep in mind that you don't go to far down the pipe because the wideband needs heat. I am curious, why do you want a wideband ? Are you tuning or do you just want to monitor what is going on ? Get a second gauge for the other bank.

 

The sensor used in that application is different. It has a MASSIVE heating element in it. What those do is not really applicable to a permanent installation.

Ideally the sensor should be as close to the engine as practical; usually it's in the collector, as described above. Mostly for the effect of getting the exh heat.

Generally the 2 banks aren't that much different; while they "can" be for sure, if the injectors and whatnot aren't massively fornicated somehow, it's not that big of a deal. Even if they're not "the same", they at least track pretty close, so readings from one can reasonably accurately represent the conditions in the other. Remember, you're not looking for some "absolute" number; YOU don't know what THE ENGINE really wants; what you'll be looking for is, the READING YOU GET when THE ENGINE is happy, so you can reliably induce the same reading at different RPMs and so forth. You're not going to sit down and "calculate" somehow that you're going to FORCE the engine to run its best at any particular numerical value, say, 12.76:1 or something; rather, you'll be looking for things like, it makes best power at this ratio, but if I let it richen up acoupla tenths from there it'll still make within 1% or whatever of max but won't risk burning a hole in a piston. You use intelligent and informed decision-making processes, not, "I want my engine to run at xx.xxxx A/F ratio" like the idiots that decide their engine should have however many degrees of "timing" and then P&M about whatever goes wrong, "I told it that it should get [whatever], why won't it run right". LISTEN TO THE ENGINE and give it what it wants, as opposed to thinking you know better than it and are going to jam whatever you think down its throat.

A MAJOR consideration is to locate the bung such that the sensor itself has some space to live in, and its connector and wires can get to it without being exposed to some hazard; you don't want something hitting the road going over bumps, or the connector being smashed up against the oil pan or something, or whatever.

Keep in mind also, you can put a bung in BOTH headers, and tune them one at a time. They're cheeeeeep so why not. The O2 sensor threads are the same as one of the std spark plug threads, the larger one I think 14mm maybe? but don't quote me, so you can buy acoupla whatever spark plug that is and use it as a plug. (or one in both sides as a plug if you're not wanting to leave the gauge installed permanently) Or even - *gasp!!* - buy a bung plug for each side to cover the hole when you're not using it.

 

Not sure where you get that .01 value from.
Experimenting with our "kit" from Innovate, which gave us only one type of sensor we found after some experimentation between stuffing it up the tailpipe and actually placing it in the more traditional location, results were off by more than a full point.

Such was not the case in our modest little shop. But we learned how to adapt.


So looking at the picture above, you're compromised from the ideal location due to the length from one collector flange compared to the other and the point where they merge. Best case scenario would be to run two sensors as suggested. Or at least two places to drop in a single sensor. Put them in the same relative location with reference to the collector flange. 6 to 12" downstream would be what's recommended given that the primary tube on those short headers probably measures in at the 12" mark. That said, and here's the deal, using just one at the "sweet" spot may get you exactly what you need and that's a reference to get on with the tuning.

 

Keep in mind also, you can put a bung in BOTH headers, and tune them one at a time. They're cheeeeeep so why not. The O2 sensor threads are the same as one of the std spark plug threads, the larger one I think 14mm maybe? but don't quote me, so you can buy acoupla whatever spark plug that is and use it as a plug. (or one in both sides as a plug if you're not wanting to leave the gauge installed permanently) Or even - *gasp!!* - buy a bung plug for each side to cover the hole when you're not using it.[/QUOTE]


The resourcefulness of winners....

 

I purchased a AEM 30-0300. I'm trying to dial in my carb (ed-1906). Can I use the stock o2 bung on the 2055s? Not sure if the sensor will thread in. Gotta check.

 

Were would you place both 02 bungs?

 

Taking the criteria as given, that is the distance from the exhaust port and trying to keep them equal and independent. I'd try something like...



I would think that would keep the two streams as separate as possible but I can't speak for the turbulence and mixing that might occur at the 2nd sensor that's downstream of the first. Minimal I would think.
Don't neglect the correct orientation in the pipe.
Question: Will you be using the A.I.R. system? I'd be wondering how that would reflect on the O2 sensor signal. Logic would say that it would increase the oxygen content. Perhaps it's best to tune with the pump off.

 

No emissions equipment.

 

I had that same gauge and put it right where the cat used to be(so it reads both banks) and had zero issues seemed to be real close in accuracy, I believe the sensor has its own heater as well.

 

I think you would be OK using the bungs that are already on the headers. You say that you are trying to tune a carb so you won't have one wonky injector give you one port that is way different than the rest. A bad plug or wire could still give you a goofy port. I will say the red dots on the y pipe above are the ideal location, orientated properly as noted.

 

So the Bosch sensor that came with the kit does not thread into the stock o2 bung on the hooker 2055s. So I welded in the provided bung. You guys think it's too vertical? I was reading through the instructions and it says to not put it completely vertical because it can overheat and fail.

 

I wouldn't be too terribly concerned about. Especially if it's going to be a tune it and remove it kind of deal. FWIW, I found that these sensors don't last forever anyway. I've gone through more than a couple of the years. In my case, it's always functioning as I'm observing the gauges all the time. AFR and vacuum are constantly changing and I learn a little every time I'm on the road.