Hey guys,
I'm thinking about installing headers on my 92 Z28 to replace my less- than- desirable factory exhaust manifolds. I've never done this on a 3rd gen, so if anyone has any advice on what headers to buy or some tips on how to actually install them that would be really helpful. I don't have much garage equipment other than ramps so please help me find the part that can get me the max performance for its simplicity.
Thanks y'all.
I'm thinking about installing headers on my 92 Z28 to replace my less- than- desirable factory exhaust manifolds. I've never done this on a 3rd gen, so if anyone has any advice on what headers to buy or some tips on how to actually install them that would be really helpful. I don't have much garage equipment other than ramps so please help me find the part that can get me the max performance for its simplicity.
Thanks y'all.
Welcome to the board. Check out the sticky's at the top of this section- lots of answers are in those.
Set aside plenty of time. If you have an option of purchasing a Y pipe with the headers, get it. Use air, have cheater bars, and plenty of PB blaster and beverages handy for any help that shows up. Hit the bolts with the PB blaster the night prior, and again before you start.
Plan on getting a new set of plug wires with 90* boots and/or boot protectors, and spending money on heat sheathing for your starter, fuel lines, etc depending on the proximity in relation to the headers. First time I did them I had to get a new oil dipstick tube, too- the mount was 'fused' to the bolt in the manifold. If you can't weld, plan on spending some money at the exhaust shop getting the Y pipe welded up/fabricated. As far as gaskets go, get copper or aluminum. Throw the ones away that come with them- the paper/asbestos ones suck.
Hope that helps you out.
Set aside plenty of time. If you have an option of purchasing a Y pipe with the headers, get it. Use air, have cheater bars, and plenty of PB blaster and beverages handy for any help that shows up. Hit the bolts with the PB blaster the night prior, and again before you start.
Plan on getting a new set of plug wires with 90* boots and/or boot protectors, and spending money on heat sheathing for your starter, fuel lines, etc depending on the proximity in relation to the headers. First time I did them I had to get a new oil dipstick tube, too- the mount was 'fused' to the bolt in the manifold. If you can't weld, plan on spending some money at the exhaust shop getting the Y pipe welded up/fabricated. As far as gaskets go, get copper or aluminum. Throw the ones away that come with them- the paper/asbestos ones suck.
Hope that helps you out.
Thanks for the help- I didn't know I needed the heat shielding- that wouldve killed me. It looks like Summit Racing has a good package with the y pipe and gaskets so I think I should be good on that front
DiabloWS6
Senior Member
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in still in the process of finishing up my header install i had to remove the steering short shaft on the driver side to get it in and remove the valve cover and that was it for the driver side on the passenger side i had to remove the a/c pump and the starter and calve cover a real tight fit and a 90 degree elbow for my fan temp switch that goes on the side of the passenger head once everything is in just like bolt in fit i will take the headers out and ceramic coat them
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Shorty or mid-length headers will be easier to install and you get to keep your ground clearance, but it'll probably be more expensive to get a y-pipe fabricated for them if there isn't one available. If you decide on Hooker 2460s, plan to pay someone to make a y-pipe... IIRC theirs is only 2.5", which is silly since the headers have 3" collectors.
You will lose ground clearance with long tubes unless you modify your transmission crossmember, and long tubes may require other modifications in order to fit - I had to take about 3/8" from one side and 1/8" from the other side off of the a-arm mounts at the rear of the engine bay for my Heddmans to have clearance, as well as temporarily remove some pieces to install them. You'll have to lift the car a lot higher to install long tubes than shorties or mid-length headers, your ramps might not be high enough. If you wrap the headers you might not need a heat shield for the starter; mine suffers less heat soak now than it did with the stock manifolds.
Either way, include new plug wires in your budget. I'd strongly recommend universal wires with 90° ends, you cut them to fit perfectly and crimp the distributor end on... this lets you route them however you want, and I'd suggest underneath the header primary tubes, and up to the distributor between the #5 and 7 tubes, and between 6 and 8. You might need to get shorter spark plugs if the normal ones are too close to the headers.
Good luck and keep us posted.
You will lose ground clearance with long tubes unless you modify your transmission crossmember, and long tubes may require other modifications in order to fit - I had to take about 3/8" from one side and 1/8" from the other side off of the a-arm mounts at the rear of the engine bay for my Heddmans to have clearance, as well as temporarily remove some pieces to install them. You'll have to lift the car a lot higher to install long tubes than shorties or mid-length headers, your ramps might not be high enough. If you wrap the headers you might not need a heat shield for the starter; mine suffers less heat soak now than it did with the stock manifolds.
Either way, include new plug wires in your budget. I'd strongly recommend universal wires with 90° ends, you cut them to fit perfectly and crimp the distributor end on... this lets you route them however you want, and I'd suggest underneath the header primary tubes, and up to the distributor between the #5 and 7 tubes, and between 6 and 8. You might need to get shorter spark plugs if the normal ones are too close to the headers.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I've been looking at Hooker Shorty headers and I'm thinking those are what I will go with- I figure it's much easier to pay someone to make a y-pipe than adjusting my clearance
Ozz1967
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Quote:
Hooker 2055 headers are pretty much universally accepted on the site here as the best of the shorty headers. That's what I've got and they came with a y-pipe. Literally...bolt in, didn't have to move anything around or modify anything. Only issues i had were iwth my smog equipment, I had to disassemble it all to make room to get to all the bolts.Originally Posted by GAboy92
I've been looking at Hooker Shorty headers and I'm thinking those are what I will go with- I figure it's much easier to pay someone to make a y-pipe than adjusting my clearance Junior Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozz1967
Hooker 2055 headers are pretty much universally accepted on the site here as the best of the shorty headers. That's what I've got and they came with a y-pipe. Literally...bolt in, didn't have to move anything around or modify anything. Only issues i had were iwth my smog equipment, I had to disassemble it all to make room to get to all the bolts. Hey, so I am thinking about putting headers and I have searched everywhere to find someone that could could answer my question. I have a 86 iroc tbi bone stock apart from ac compressor and I was thinking about headers and a custom y pipe. I want to keep it stock other than exhaust to free up some power. My main concern is to keep the check engine light from coming on.
When you remove the smog pump does it make the light come on?
Were you able to reconnect the smog pump after the headers were installed?
Do you know if it is even possible to get the headers in with out an engine code coming up?
Ozz1967
Supreme Member
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Quote:
When you remove the smog pump does it make the light come on?
Were you able to reconnect the smog pump after the headers were installed?
Do you know if it is even possible to get the headers in with out an engine code coming up?
The only time you'll throw a code by removing the smog or air, is if you disconnect the EGR electrical connection.Originally Posted by petrarca0425
Hey, so I am thinking about putting headers and I have searched everywhere to find someone that could could answer my question. I have a 86 iroc tbi bone stock apart from ac compressor and I was thinking about headers and a custom y pipe. I want to keep it stock other than exhaust to free up some power. My main concern is to keep the check engine light from coming on. When you remove the smog pump does it make the light come on?
Were you able to reconnect the smog pump after the headers were installed?
Do you know if it is even possible to get the headers in with out an engine code coming up?
I still have my EGR but have removed the smog pump and AIR Tube and I don't get a light at all.
So, to answer your questions in order:
1. Yes, and I have no light. Removing the smog pump doesn't make a light come on.
2. Yes, originally I did this but I pulled my smog pump when it froze up and am currently running a delete pulley. The ECM doesn't care if there is a smog pump. It's reading the signal the O2 sensor gives it. Keep that because you'll need it, otherwise you can ditch the smog pump, AIR tube and EGR valve itself. Just keep the EGR plug electrically connected.
3. Yes. The example I have is mine, however, you may need to re-tune it a bit because it may run a bit rich at times without the AIR and smog pump hooked up.
Junior Member
will the 02 sensors bolt into the 2460 Hookers?
Here is the link of the headers I plan to buy.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...ro?prefilter=1
Here is the link of the headers I plan to buy.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...ro?prefilter=1
Ozz1967
Supreme Member
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Here is the link of the headers I plan to buy.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...ro?prefilter=1
Those particular headers do not support an O2 sensor.Originally Posted by petrarca0425
will the 02 sensors bolt into the 2460 Hookers? Here is the link of the headers I plan to buy.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...ro?prefilter=1
Dyno Don
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Quote:
For a little more you could have these:Originally Posted by Ozz1967
Hooker 2055 headers are pretty much universally accepted on the site here as the best of the shorty headers. That's what I've got and they came with a y-pipe. They're a lot better than 2055's and are available with AIR tubes.
PM me for details
Ozz1967
Supreme Member
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Quote:

They're a lot better than 2055's and are available with AIR tubes.
PM me for details
I posted that before I even knew you made headers and everyone was talking about "hookers" (I bought mine in 2007) My next set will be ordered from you. Originally Posted by Dyno Don
For a little more you could have these:They're a lot better than 2055's and are available with AIR tubes.
PM me for details

Junior Member
Quote:

They're a lot better than 2055's and are available with AIR tubes.
PM me for details
I know this is an older thread but I am searching for suitable headers like these for a 1982 Camaro 350 with a T5 installed, I like using the OEM exhaust routing so if anyone can post a like to a supplier for these I would appreciate it, tried visiting Dyno Don's homepage from but it's a dead end.Originally Posted by Dyno Don
For a little more you could have these:They're a lot better than 2055's and are available with AIR tubes.
PM me for details
Ozz1967
Supreme Member
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Lon at Top Down Solutions has them.Originally Posted by jfl1960
I know this is an older thread but I am searching for suitable headers like these for a 1982 Camaro 350 with a T5 installed, I like using the OEM exhaust routing so if anyone can post a like to a supplier for these I would appreciate it, tried visiting Dyno Don's homepage from but it's a dead end. Junior Member
Quote:

They're a lot better than 2055's and are available with AIR tubes.
PM me for details
Ressurecting an old thread again. My exhaust manifolds are all rusted and crappy looking. My AIR system has been disabled in my PROM so those parts are unneeded (actually a second question is, does that improve, decrease or do nothing to my performance). Originally Posted by Dyno Don
For a little more you could have these:They're a lot better than 2055's and are available with AIR tubes.
PM me for details
I suppose I am looking for something like this. What kind of cost is involved with these?
Car: 1989 Pontiac Trans Am GTA 350 5.7l 8
Junior Member
How do I take off the manifolds and put on headers? The skinny silver tubes coming out of the manifolds go to all kinds of rubber tubing. Plz help, I have a 92 camaro with a 305 v8.
Sounds like the AIR system. Just start pulling it. Then you can pull the manifolds. Don't over complicate it.
thatsupnow
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Doug's long tubes. Awesome quality. Mine slipped right in without any issues



