Torque Arm
02-23-2004, 10:09 PM
#1
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Car: '92 RS, '84 Z28
Engine: 383, L69
Transmission: T56, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.42
Torque Arm
Anyone tried to fab one of these up, seems like it would be that hard to me, just getting some threaded ends to make it adjustable. Shoot me some ideas.
02-24-2004, 07:36 AM
#2
I think it would be a good project to tackle. BMR and Spohn have done it and you can get some pretty hi res pictures of them if you needed some detail of how they do it. I'm sure you could build one for less than you can buy it from them.
02-24-2004, 03:10 PM
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Car: 1991 Z28 1LE A.K.A The blue rocket
Engine: Blown 383
Transmission: Full manual 700R4
I'm curious why it needs to be adjustable? The only aspect of the stock arm that is adjustable is that it slides in the rubber mount at the trans. I plan on making my own designed on the factory one, but I will make it out of square tubing. Probaly 1"x1" of some fairly thick tubing. Nothing fancy, just more sturdy than the stamped sheet metal piece. Well I guess I'll paint it so I guess it will be kind of fancy.
02-24-2004, 04:26 PM
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
The adjustability is the part factory does'nt have and if you race your car pinion angle helps plant tires. For the most part, a basic and easy to me method of this would just be make a mount off the cross member and have the anchor point so it gives the -2 to -4 whatever you choose pinion angle. Adjustibility is nice, but once I have mine set at -3 I never plan on doing it again, hence the cross member mounting point to acheive this. Lots cheaper than buying heims. Just be sure your mounting point up front gives free movement forward and backwards otherwise you'll bind up the suspension.
02-27-2004, 10:34 AM
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Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 95 350 LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
the trick here is to use tubing with an 11/16 inner diameter. I use 1 inch DOM tubing with a .156 wall. With an 11/16 inner diameter you can run a 3/4 x 16 tap into the tubing. I have both right and left handed taps for this. It's easy to make up adjusters and whatever else you need.
03-03-2004, 05:16 PM
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Car: 1985 Firebird
Engine: 327
Transmission: TH350
The most important item to fabbing these arms is to strengthen the mounting point at the transmission. A buddy of mine kept snapping the tailshaft off his trans until we fabbed a shackle that ties the trans down to the trans crossmember better than stock. When I get to putting my Ford 9" in I am going to fab the whole assembly from scratch with better mounts.
03-10-2004, 11:49 AM
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Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
i think im going to attempt making one from boxed steel. i have yet to see one being sold that is constructed of boxed material. my arms and subs are boxed, why not the TQ arm right?
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03-12-2004, 02:54 PM
#8
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Originally posted by IHI
Just be sure your mounting point up front gives free movement forward and backwards otherwise you'll bind up the suspension.
Just be sure your mounting point up front gives free movement forward and backwards otherwise you'll bind up the suspension.
How so? I just checked out the Spohn adjustable torque arm and it has what looks like a spherical rod bearing for the front mount. Just trying to understand why it needs to slide.
03-12-2004, 04:22 PM
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by TexasLT1
How so? I just checked out the Spohn adjustable torque arm and it has what looks like a spherical rod bearing for the front mount. Just trying to understand why it needs to slide.
How so? I just checked out the Spohn adjustable torque arm and it has what looks like a spherical rod bearing for the front mount. Just trying to understand why it needs to slide.
http://www.spohn.net/productimages/ACF3DBB.JPG
Last edited by Scott_92RS; 03-12-2004 at 04:26 PM.
03-12-2004, 07:12 PM
#10
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Originally posted by Scott_92RS
The crossmember that spohn supplies with his torque arm has the slider implemented as a kind of "pivot arm" I guess you could say. The arm attached to the crossmember through a poly bushing, and the torque arm's rod-end is attached to the arm, allowing the torque arm to move forwards and backwards. Here's a great pi from spohn's site:
http://www.spohn.net/productimages/ACF3DBB.JPG
The crossmember that spohn supplies with his torque arm has the slider implemented as a kind of "pivot arm" I guess you could say. The arm attached to the crossmember through a poly bushing, and the torque arm's rod-end is attached to the arm, allowing the torque arm to move forwards and backwards. Here's a great pi from spohn's site:
http://www.spohn.net/productimages/ACF3DBB.JPG
Ahhhhh, that makes sense then, couldnt see that detail in the photo I looked at.
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