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If you sumped your tank....

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Old May 8, 2004 | 06:09 PM
  #1  
2out_The_Left's Avatar
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From: The BayState-MA-
If you sumped your tank....

so this is my 2nd tank i have sumped. i went with a jegster sump this time around and i actually like it more then i though i would. but im getting a damp spot around the weld at the highest part of the sump. my question is, is there anything i can use to seal it? i was thinking maybe liquid weld inside and out around the bead, but will the gas cause the liquid weld to come off? i would hit it with the mig again but its not really a drip, just a damp spot.

another question involving the sump... you guys still use a regular stock style cat back or did you mod the exaust? i dont know if i like the idea of a hot muffler sitting below the sump. i was thinking i might have to have it all down and out the right side now. anyone know anything about this?
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Old May 8, 2004 | 07:42 PM
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From: Holbrook NY
Car: 1982 Z/28 H.O.
Engine: 355
Transmission: t-5
When a tank has a leak it should be drained dryed and soldered around the leaking area. the solder can be bought in most parts stores. its the same deal as sweating pipe. Just make sure everything is nice and clean and use plenty of flux
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Old May 8, 2004 | 07:52 PM
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From: The BayState-MA-
i actually had the guy take it back and re-weld it. ill keep that in mind if it comes back leaking again. what kind of solder should i use?
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Old May 9, 2004 | 02:23 AM
  #4  
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From: Holbrook NY
Car: 1982 Z/28 H.O.
Engine: 355
Transmission: t-5
I beleve it is called tank and radiator solder don't quote me on that tho. Its a similar solder to that used for sweating pipe it has a seperate flux and in order to get a really good solder joint the two areas should be wire wheeled clean
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Old May 9, 2004 | 07:42 AM
  #5  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
i'd weld it, but if i were to solder it you'd want 50/50 tin/lead solid wire solder. use a seperate flux. something thiat might work along the lines of solder is plastic solder. not sure if that's the real name. radiator shop i go to uses it. they tell me it seals great, doesn't hold anything. they use regular tin/lead solder for an joining they do but the plastic for sealing. works about liek solder, heat the area and wipe it on. never used it but it looks easy to use and effective.
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Old May 9, 2004 | 05:41 PM
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From: The BayState-MA-
well i got the tank re welded. the part that was damp didnt fuse all the way through like the rest of the tank. so he took it back and welded it till it fused. i ran out and got some JB weld, covered the bead all the way around the tank to make sure. im going to check it tomorrow, sand it down, then por15 the rest of the tank. no way is it going to leak through all that. i might go over kill and get some sealent for the inside of the tank. any suggestions on the sealent? something i can buy localy... im sick of waiting to get the tank fixed up. i have this new rear i want to get in so i can drop the car off the stands
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Old May 9, 2004 | 07:00 PM
  #7  
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From: Holbrook NY
Car: 1982 Z/28 H.O.
Engine: 355
Transmission: t-5
I hear that I got my rear end sitting next to my car and i havn't removed the gas tank yet. I bet if you called up a radiator shop they would have the teflon coating for the tank. it has to sit and cure for 2 days b4 it can be filled up. Even if they tell you its good in X amount of hours the chemicals used to mix the teflon take 2 days to dry out i found that out the hard way on my supra when the teflon broke down and distroyed all my injectors
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Old May 9, 2004 | 07:07 PM
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From: The BayState-MA-
bah to that then lol. ill just coat the tank after the JB drys and stuff it back in. everytime it rains it leaks through my stripping ( i have a notch back) because of the angle the car is sitting on the jacks.

so does anyone know if its safe to run a stock style exaust wit hthe sump? i dont want to get a cat back and have my car explode at a red light....
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