:nono:
I welded Titanium today.
It was a piece of .100'' thick anneled 6Al-4V Titanium alloy mil-t-9046 and .030'' wire AMS4956B.
My welder is the miller SP-135.
The gas I used is none other than Argon at about 13-14 L/min.
It was so easy to weld it. About as easy as steel to weld.
Now I didn't get the pentration I quite wanted but I could so easly fix that with grinding a filler grove and a little preheat with a propane torch.
It was so easy. I couldn't belive it. All most like stick welding.
You set it like you are going to weld SS you set the volts and wire feed speed like for SS but it welds a lot easier than SS.
Here is a pic of the first time I ever welded titanium.
All I did was chop it with my plasma torch and stick it back together, I didn't prep the weld site at all.
All the people that say welding Ti is so hard must be high, be bad welders or want to be (and stay) the only Ti welder in there aera.
I also up dated my cardomain site with other welding and plasma cutting pictures.

 

Now you need to find out if you welded it together, or glued it together.

Try this...

Cut out one section of the welded area, then slice through with a bandsaw/hacksaw, clean the sliced side with a stiff wire brush, then inspect the weld to make sure it looks as one piece of metal.

Next, begin bending at the weld until it breaks, see if the metal tears or the weld pops off the metal.

I've no experience/need to weld Ti, actually never heard if it could be welded or not, so don't take this post/request the wrong way.

 

Who told you it was hard to weld? It depends on what you mean by hard to weld. I said it's easyier than steel but to do it RIGHT it takes more than just pumping up the argon. When TI is hot you NEED to keep it in a bath of argon. When I say bath I mean NO OXYGEN AT ALL. Pure Argon in an old sink with a clear plastic shower curtain duct taped all around works well but you need to have it sealed.
Welding Ti is easy but to do it so that the weld is stronger than the material you MUST use the bath, or else it'll just contaminate and break with ease. Try and break the weld, I have a feeling if you didn't use a bath that your weld is "bad." It might look pretty but it's weak. I've got some pictures of some welded suspension mounts on our race car to show you what happens.

 

I didn't get a perfect weld by any means. It is very strong.
This was a trial by fire just to see what hapens.
I say I got good results for puting eletrode to metal for the first time considering I had no idea what was going to hapen.
I do plain to get a box or some thing to pool Argon in side and weld with.
The welds will look real nice with a filler grove and a little pre heat done in an argon box.
That's why I didn't run the bead all the way a cross the cut, I wanted to try some thing different next time I go back to my little welding aera. I was going to hit it with a grinder and come back with a box.
Ti isn't cheap. I want to learn as best I can with only wasting this one piece of metal or maybe even get it down good and have a useable scrap left over from it.

 

If I had an option between welding steel or Ti, I'd do Ti anyday. Although with Mig its probably the same feel, trigger and push . I only Tig and Ti is my favorite, steel in 2nd and Aluminum 7,429,043,576th (especially when not knowing the alloy and welding 2000 series to 7000 series ).

 

I wouldn't welding 2024 to any thing but it's self, screw that.
I have yet to come across any useable amount 7000 alloy.
Why would you want to weld a 2000 to a 7000, are you building an air craft?

 

lol, well we just so happened to get a bunch of our scrap metal from 2 places. One being the local metal recycler and another being an Air Force junkyard.
We get aluminum given to us for like $1/lb, sometimes they'll just give it to us upright. So yeah, if the metal isn't pure stock with a color code on the end we don't know what it is.
How do you think we get our Ti too , those Air Force guys really rely heavily on Ti fasteners .

 

If you want to test your weld, just put it in a vise and beat the crap out of it with a hammer. If you can break the two pieces apart easily it's a bad weld. If your weld stays put it's a good one. When I worked in a suspention fabrication business the guys in charge were real cheap. They did a lot of hammer testing before they would hire a new welder. It was always fun to watch guys sweat it out as the owners beat some of their test parts to pieces with a sledgehammer.