anyone have any pics of what they fabricated to mount the master cylinder when running manual brakes and how they attached the pedal pushrod to the pedals

There's a couple of pics on my web site.

I prefer to use the Mopar style master cylinder (smaller and the lines come out away from the engine). This subject has been covered numerous times in the past.

Anyway, here's a couple of pics of mine:

Here is mine off and S-10

Are you using a proportioning valve in that setup. I don't even see a combination valve. I'm about to redo my lines and I'm considering removing the combination valve.

Factory disk on the front. Large ford drums on the rear. Not sure if a proportioning valve is still required.

My adjustable prop. valve is located inside my car, just ahead of the driver's seat, on the inside part of the rocker panel, so I can readily adjust it (no combo or residual pressure valves). My brake line going to the rear goes through the speedometer cable grommet in the firewall, runs along the inside of the rocker panel, and exits through the rear, just to the inside of the ladder bar mount/crossmember area. Routing the line this way also eliminates any chance of exhaust heat/boiling problems, or the line being damaged from any possible driveline failures. FWIW, I have Wilwood 4 piston calipers on the front, and Chrysler drum brakes on the rear.

Hmmm. Ideas, ideas but it sounds like a good one. I don't like how my factory rear line is currently routed. With the engine moved back and the huge header tubes, there's not much room between the headers and the brake line. I guess I need to pick up a proportioning valve soon.

One more thing to add to my To Do list. I think it keeps getting bigger instead of smaller.

In that photo I was using a combination valve and had it tucked underneath the master. It was using stock camaro brakes. I have since switched to a 9' ford and explorer disks on the back so have ditched the combination valve and and installed residual valves and a proportion valve. I would think for a drag only car the proportion is all that would be needed.

Years ago, a local Super Stock chassis builder gave me the idea of running the brake line through the interior, and it immediately made perfect sense to me. Unlike fuel, it's perfectly safe.
Between your new engine, headers, steering linkage, tube crossmember(??), and now this, it sounds like your plate is pretty full! I hope you'll be ready for the first TNT of the season.

You guys have me wondering… how well do these assorted manual brake setups work? Do you think that they would be sufficient for a street car or _gasp_ a road race setup?

What is that Mopar MC used in originally?

Quite honestly, don't expect an improvement over a good working factory boosted set-up. I do drive mine on the street occasionally though without reservation. I may try to increase my pedal ratio and/or different pads this year to help improve performance. FWIW, I do have to stop my 3500# car from 145+ mph in a very short distance at one of the tracks I frequent, and personally feel that I could use just a tad more brake. Not so sure about a road race set-up though, but the NASCAR guys can make it work - just a matter of getting the right combination of parts, and setting them up correctly. I guess pedal feel is the big issue here.

They were quite prevalent on many Chrysler products throughout the 80's (the mini vans come to mind). Most of the aftermarket brake companies sell their version of it though, due to it's popularity.

And it allows the driver to adjust the rear proportioning easily. I've been planning this for when I get larger wheels for my new brakes but I can't settle on a good place to install the prop-valve. It's a Tilton lever style. Got any ideas for me? It would work nicely on the kick panel if I didn't have my components mounted there....

i never intend to adjust mine while im driving it, so i mounted mine underhood....


if you're just changing tires (say, from streets to skinnys) then you could just change it underhood then... then the other way later.

Well here's the thing. I understand the brake system rather well and for me it's about being able to adjust the brakes during weather changes as well. Nobody, especially me, wants to get out of a dry car in the rain to adjust the propvalve. Espeically me because my hood is pin on.
If you ever want something that explains vehicle dynamics get the book with that title. It goes through suspension, tires, brakes, engine, aero, it's very complete and well worth the $. In race cars the drivers are given control over their bias bars for similar reasons why I'd want to adjust depending on the traction avail.

well in that case, you could always put it where i put my "somtimes want to change" things in the car... inside the center console.

just flip the ashtray door up, and adjust it... you wont accidently bump it that way either.


if you took the stock line running down the trans tunnel,and put a small bend in it to go up, its almost mounted there already.

I used an ed quay manual brake kit...It comes with the mopar master cylinder...you send him your brake pedal and he modifies it for you....then its an all bolt in deal...


The only thing I had to make was 2 brake lines to go from the mopar cylinder to the distribution box because I felt better making custom lines than using adaptor fittings that came in the kit..

Please knock off the name calling and personal attacks.