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iTrader: (6)

OK, I don't have 1000HP (yet), but I already need more fuel than the factory line can flow. Since I need to upgrade I want to do it right. These are things I am considering:

1/2" or 5/8" supply line(s)
3/8" or 1/2" return line


Dual inline pumps (in parrallel). I am not running an in-tank pump. Second pump only active when needed. Maybe turned on by throttle position/RPM or pressure drop?

1 way valve to prevent backflow through second pumnp when not pumping.

What can I do to prevent momentary pressure drop when opening a 400+ HP fuel solenoid.

I'm just wondering what other have done. I'm not as concerned with specific pump brands as I am with the type and size of line used and any specialized plumbing that has worked well for you.

Any suggestions or examples? Pictures of what you have done would be great.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

All the pump you'll ever need and I just happen to know the guy that owns it http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMESE%3AIT

Brother in law has same pump running close to 600hp NA and 500shot single stage fogger system-off the 1 pump. Best bet would be 5/8" from sump/cell to pump, 5/8" from pump to return style regulator Aeromotive number13202 this way you can feed your carb and nos fuel solenoids with one unit, then just -8 for return line. -6 from regulator to bowls.

Selling that new A2000 and going with this one myself http://www.racepumps.com/tech.html 575hp NA guestimate and am adding 300 shot with NX plate system.

406TPI

iTrader: (1)

I think IHI is right....running two pumps would create some extra uneeded hassles. If you ran two pumps, you would want them to run at the same time, all the time to prevent moving fuel through a dead pump. Also the pumps would have to be sized correctly....ie, you would not want to run two identical pumps because of the volume differences they will see.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

2 pumps is old school and expensive when there are plenty of pumps on the market now days that are more than adequate for 99% of the guys on this board.

You can and people do run different sized pumps, especially when separate nitrous fuel pump is added, you just have to be sure to buy 1 way check valves to install on the outlet sides of both pumps so they dont back feed and damage each other. Then you need Y blocks, twice as much fuel line, fittings, etc...when it's not needed at all.

AlkyIROC

When www.racepumps.com offers a BBC pump in a few months, I'll probably be selling my BG400

Line size depends on a few things especially if your engine is going to produce that much power. From the tank to the pump should be 5/8" or 3/4" (-10, -12) Pump to regulator -10. If it's a bypass regulator or there's a bypass at the pump, a -6 (3/8") is the return to the tank. From the regulator to the float bowls is a -8.

You can always plumb it the way IHI mentions but going slightly larger lines is fine plus it gives more room to expand.

I don't think I've ever seen anyone using 2 pumps at the track. It's just not worth it. 2 small pumps if you want to keep costs down instead of buying one big pump but if one pump fails, the other isn't enough to supply enough fuel anyway. Running 2 big pumps on the risk of one failing is carrying around a lot of extra weight.

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iTrader: (6)

Actually I am considering running 1 smallish pump all the time to reduce the electrical current required under normal driving conditions. The second larger pump would come on when certain conditions were met for example:
>.5 throttle and rpm>3000
or a drop in fuel pressure
The specifics of when it would be activated are not important for now.

The second pump would have a 1 way valve to prevent back flow and be plumbed in parrallel with the first, so that any given drop of fuel would pass through one or the other but not both.

Both pumps would draw from the tank and Y together to a single 5/8" high pressure supply line. I would probably have 2 seperate siphon lines coming from the tank to feed the 2 pumps..

That would be routed to a High Pressure bypass regulator wich would feed the injection. Down stream of that a second Low Pressure bypass regulator would feed the NO2 system. Fuel that is bled off of the low pressure regulator would return to the tank via a 1/2" return line.

At least that is what I am thinking right now.

AlkyIROC

Use a big pump with a voltage controller. Low demand and the controller lowers the voltage to the pump decreasing it's flow rate.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...67&prmenbr=361

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I understnd your situation, since I already been there done that and gave serious thought about just using my Holley Red for Street use and having my A2000 for track use. But onceI started adding up everything needed for the correct install-and you will TWO check valves one for each pump, it got overly expensive and complicated.

I drive the streets as much as possible and the A2000 I had was not meant to run non stop like that. It did last all summer, but fried the motor. Long story short, many calls with Aeromotive and I am EXTREMEMLY happy with their customer support and service, would recommend that compnay to anybody, but they laid out a different fuel system based on my needs and plans for future upgrades. Reliable street pump and plenty of fuel for the track. I fI was gonna keep an electric pump I would go with what they told me, but after finding that mechanical pump with those specs, I'm all over it!!!!

Here's what Aeromotive sent me in an email for the parts they recommeded:

"We have the motor for A2000 custom built to our specifications. As such, they are a subassembly complete when we receive them and therefore don’t have various motor parts to repair. The motor may be completely replaced and the pump should be sent in for that. I would recommend that you contact Jason by dialing the number below and then extension 105 at the prompt.



The A2000 fuel pump is definitely NOT for continuous (read street) use. The SS pump P/N 11203 would be a better alternative, or the ultimate street/carb system is made up of the A1000 P/N 11101 pump and bypass regulator P/N 13204."

Stephen, talked with Bullet this mornin said my cam should have the fuel pump lobe unless I specified NOT having it when they ground it, so I'm good to go. Soon as the A2000 is gone, I'll get that Stewart ordered up and post some feed back, still sounds too good to be true so hopefully it's as good as they claim. I'm not gonna know what to do with out that loud azz BBRRRRRRRRR sound everytime I hit the switch

AlkyIROC

To my knowledge, all cams have the fuel pump lobe unless ground specifically without one. I know how you feel with the motor noise. I turn my pump switch on and it sounds like an electric drill under the hood. Add in the water pump and fan if my engine ever gets hot enough and the electrical noise gets pretty loud. Of course you can't hear any of that once I fire the engine up

Nice thing about an electric pump, you can check for any fuel leaks and preset fuel pressure so it's close before firing the engine up.

I've wanted to go with a belt driven pump but the cost of the pump plus all the extra plumbing required has put me off. The new block mounted pump will be just the ticket. Even the SBC version can easily feed my engine if it would fit.