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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 09:52 PM
  #1  
vinceanity92's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: indiana
Car: 1992 rs
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: 700r4
STb

any of u got any ideas on using the hyme joint things that u hold three point hitch stuff on to tractors with as stb?????? i know they make kick *** adjustable rear lower control arms, they can be had at any farm store for less than 50 bux
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Old Oct 28, 2005 | 05:53 PM
  #2  
DrummerDad's Avatar
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From: Tri-Cities
Car: 1991 pontiac Firebird
Engine: 305 tbi, Lo3 (for now)
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: stock (for now)
I just bought a bunch for a STB I will be building in a few weeks. I also got a few bar-ends and such. I got mine from S and W racing. You can get them from almost any chassis company, like S & W, or the Chassis Shop, etc...
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 09:35 AM
  #3  
Lo-tec's Avatar
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Are the joints being used for easy removal of the brace? Have you considered making the bar solid instead of having joints?
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 11:23 AM
  #4  
SERPENT99's Avatar
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From: Augusta Georgia
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 95 350 LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
make it solid- less flex
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 04:28 PM
  #5  
89_ho_rs's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 753
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From: Eastern Connecticut
Car: 1989 RS Camaro
Engine: 350 Carb(soon a 400)
Transmission: 5-Speed/th350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73
I made this one.
Attached Thumbnails STb-mvc-014f.jpg  
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 03:04 PM
  #6  
DrummerDad's Avatar
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From: Tri-Cities
Car: 1991 pontiac Firebird
Engine: 305 tbi, Lo3 (for now)
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: stock (for now)
Sorry its been awhile since I was here. The STB will be solid. The ends, and pins will be for easy removal. The brace itself will come completely out, as one piece, and the attachment points will remain in place. I was concerned about the strength of the pins, vs bolts, but the pins are plenty strong. Ill post pics when we finish it, but itll be awhile. We are swamped at work. We are also going to make our own SFC's and panhard bar, plus anything else I can think of.
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 01:02 PM
  #7  
SERPENT99's Avatar
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From: Augusta Georgia
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 95 350 LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Forget the pins. Use at least 2 bolts at the attachment points for less flex. Look at it this way, take a table and attach each leg with one spherical bearing, the table will not take any side load and fall over. I'm making mine with a backing plate on the inside of the strut tower and another plate on top. Would you attach your rollcage to the floor with spherical bearings or a flat plate with bolts in each corner. Rod ends and pins are for when you want flex
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 03:25 PM
  #8  
Lo-tec's Avatar
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Here's a link to a post with pics of the solid one on my car:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=stb

There are two bolts under each strut tower. I can take it out in about 2 minutes without jacking the car up.
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 10:13 PM
  #9  
SERPENT99's Avatar
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From: Augusta Georgia
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 95 350 LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally posted by Lo-tec
Here's a link to a post with pics of the solid one on my car:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=stb

There are two bolts under each strut tower. I can take it out in about 2 minutes without jacking the car up.
Thanks, that's what I was trying to say. Tie that beauty into the firewall! Don't tie both tubes into the firewall at the same point, bolt a piece of angle to the firewall that's about a foot llong with the bolts right at the end and weld the tubes to tthe angle right inside the bolts so the tubes are about 8-10 iinches apart.

Last edited by SERPENT99; Nov 12, 2005 at 10:18 PM.
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