Anyone ever have the experiance of making a different rearend fit the 3rd gens chassis, I have a couple of 9" housings and have done narrowed installs before but I wondered if anyone had done a stock width or near stock one that still had the torque arm mount and what you may have done to fab it up .. I have a 82 pace car Z thats getting a 383 and TH-350 and I know the stock 10 bolt wont hold out long and I just cant justify buying something I can make ... Im just looking for ideas Thanks BBCAM.

 

To use a non bolt in 9" and a torque arm, you need the mounting bracket from moser. Mounts will need to be welded onto the 9" housing. This is something that should be done by a professional welder since you need very good welds.

The mounts that are welded onto the housing allow you to bolt the Moser torque arm mounting bracket onto the housing. You can then bolt a torque arm onto the mounting bracket.

Moser is the only one that sells this bracket kit. It's around $150

When I put a 9" under my car, I got rid of the torque arm and LCA and installed ladder bars.

 

This should help you:

http://malibunorth.freeservers.com/Ford_9.htm
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...bolt+to+9+inch

 

Thanks for the input guys , I'll check out the Moser bracket.. but I was going to try to fab something up my self (I am a certified mig/tig welder) and have been a body tech for 20+ years and have done tons of chassis cars and 4 link / ladder bar set ups but in this case im not going to tub the car and was going to try to put a near stock width rear in and run the M/T 275/15 drag radials with mini tubs or just clearence the stock wells, thanks for the info ...

 

No such thing as mini tub to a third gen. The stock "frame rails" are already on the wall of inner fender. Mini tubbing means relocating the inner fender to reach the frame rails. A common thing to do on full frame cars.

If you need to because of wider/taller tires, you can modify the inner fender flor more clearance.

 

Well ..I always considered any mods to the wheel well where you remove the stock wheel well and replace it with a prefabricated "tub"type structure as mini tubbing ... but you may call it something else , I thought I would put a pic of a 91 firebird we built last year for a friend of mine its a Pro Street car with a 2x3 back half frame and full tubs and cage 9" ford and ladder bar suspension we took it to the woodward cruise last year with a 468 BBC..

 

Do you have the link for the Moser mounting kit? I cant seem to find it.

 

I just got done with a 9" install. I cut the brackets off the stock rear and transfered to 9" housing. I also made my own torque arm bracket. It's on the car, but needs some more to it. It's made out of 1/2" steel plate doubled where it bolts to housing and 3 plates where the torque arm bolts up. I still need to add tubing between those to prevent them from pulling together when I bolt the torque arm on.
I'm going to be getting pics for my site up soon. I'm planning on getting over to the car tomorrow so I'll try to get them up later in the day Monday. I'm satisfied with what I did, but in all reality, I'd suggest putting in more hours at work and just buy one from a company. It was a lot more work than I thought and there is not a lot of room for error, and ended up with a cost close to that of just buying a new 9" housing.
I.E. Adjustable torque arm and control arms.

 

OK, I will have to check the pics out. How did you mount the tourqe arm to the rearend? And are you going to have problems with the 9" being too wide or narrow? And could you tell how much the materials were? I need to do it the cheapest I can b/c I am only 16 and you were 16 once so you know how money is. I just have a summer job with a lawncare company. I can get a 9" for about $100.

 

Ok never mind about the first post, it wont let me edit. Could you take a pic of the plate you used to adapt it? And I see your parts list only added up to $400. A new 9" is like $2,000. And did you have problems with the rearend being too wide or narrow?

 

I'll pull the torque arm out tomorrow and take pics of the bracket. I'm going to be trying to fab my own adjustable torque arm.
Yes I do know what it was like to be 16 and I do know what it was like to be older than 16 and not living with the parents. If you think you can't afford to work on the car when you are there... try working on it when you have to pay reant and bills and school, while working a part-time job. It's almost doable until you turn 21. Watch out for that, the alcohol and girls will sneak up on you.
I actually got the steel for free from my uncle. The total cost is just modifying the housing.. not the unknown cost of control arms, torque arm, and a new posi unit.
I can even give you some measurements if you want.

As far as width goes, I'm not sure what the housing came out of, but it's a stock width. With the factory rims, I have about 1/2" between the sidewall and that rubber cushion that hits the axel tube if you bottom out the shocks. Hope that makes sense.

 

Since I can only edit within 5 minutes.. here's the pics of the housing as well as the torque arm mount. If you can't see them they are also on my website.




If you can't view the pics, don't worry, I have them up on my site with a bit of a writup about the project. Maybe some helpful hints and suggestions if you care to consider them.

 

The pics wont work. They arnt on the site either. And what did the rearend come out of? Does it mater on the width of what it cam out of or are they the same? And yes I would like the measurement, no hurry though, it wont be till like the end of summer till I get the 496 done. I will just write the measurements down and keep them in a folder or somthing.

 

Man I dont know why it wont let me edit. Forget about the question of what the rearend came out of. Didnt see what you wrote the first time I read it.

 

Yeah, sorry, I found a car I want, so I got cought up in looking at that. I am going out of town to look at it today though. I appologize for no pics yet...once again.

 

I got pics up of everything finally.

 

If you know any one in So-Cal we have a 9" F-body rear at our local pick-a-part.

Link
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...d.php?t=351923

Jerry

 

I used a 70 pickup housing. Shortened the left side only about 1.5" ( would have to check notes to be sure) and welded up thick wall tube brackets on the housing to mount my own torque bar. You can see the attachments in the photo.

 

if the tube was stock length on the other side did you just shorten one axle shaft or was the other side the same length after you cut it? and what was the total width and what wheels did you use (offset and width)?

 

I checked my notes and I shortened the drivers side by 2.75". That gave me 57.5" housing flange to housing flange. 2.5" standout ( stock is about .235 but I used explorer disks and they require 2.5") and rotor thickness of .235. Overall width was 62.97 ", pinion was offset to pass side .625". I used aftermarket axles. Pass axle was 32.25 ( a stock ford length) and drivers was 29.125". I use wheels with 5.5" back spacing and it moves the wheels out 1\2" from stock.

 

Cool ..Thanks for the info! what did the axles cost you ? and who's did you use ?

 

I used currie, i think just under 300 and they supplied and pressed bearings, seal and proper spacer ring and retainer for my disks. Just checked records, just under 400