Ok. I have been looking at sfc's. i have decided to make my own. i am using 1 3/4 roll cage tubeing. I have started with the drivers side because it's the easiest. I made the ends, where it bolts to the rear lca out of 1/4 inch flat steel. I now am trying to figure out how to make my front mounts and how i am going to bring the cross section over to the front frame rail.

from what i can see the pass side is going to have to go up about 2 inches to follow the body but then its going to run right into my exhaust. I was going to just stop it about a 1/2 inch from the exhaust. then i thought that i could drop down in size from 1 3/4 to 1 1/2. i don't know if that is a good idea or not. I still have not decided on that yet. I will continue to post pics as i do more work.

 

ok doing a little more with them. on the drivers side. i am not sure if i should have the triangulated pipe go on the yellow (it would make the pipe at a 90degree angle) or on the Red (it would make the pipe go at more of an angle). thats the first pic

on the second pic it shows the front mounting part. I have to make the mount still. i was wondering if i should cut back about an ince and make the plate fit across the peice of frame. the yellow out line is where i was wondering if i should make this the metal and weld it to the frame of the car.

also should gussets be needed or would they do anything for the pipes that go out to the center of the car. would they just add weight or would they actually help strengthen things up

 

a lot of the SFC out there have trianguar ties going inboard. it will help.

looking good so far.

 

Hi, Looking good so far. If you want to see another version of a custom SFC look down a few a few threads under 1982 Silver State Project. You can see how I made mine just like yours but I "kicked" the front section of tubing inward to arrach it to the front section of frame. I used a peice of 7ga (or 3/16") steel to overlay onto the frame and landed the role bar tubing right onto that. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Your on the right track.

 

where would you attach the front pipe to the red circle or to the yellow. I want to get it as sturdy as possible.

 

I did both. The main pipe attached to the red and then I added another bar to form a "y" that attached to the yellow. if you not sure drop me a note with an email address and I can email you some pictures.

 

Red/yellow: Id’ go to the further forward one and run a second bar between the straight section and the bar going over, triangulating the whole deal. Make sure that you have the tube attached to a plate there, not just that thin subframe steel.

I’m not sure that boxing the whole torque box with the pivot bolt going through it is that much stronger then it just properly welded reinforcing plate to the torque box, but with 2 ¼” thick plates on either side you’ll at least need a longer bolt and I kind of doubt that you’ll have enough room to get it in there.

Exhaust… donno, youre basically copying the GW ones, they just run straight forward to a point right behind the plastic inner wheel well liner and weld off in the seam there. They come close (actually get in the way of) dual cat setups, but I’ve always been able to tweak them enough with a jack that it didn’t make a difference.

 

thanks for the info. yes i do need longer bolts for the lca. but I am not using the bolt as the only means to hold that on. I am going to use that mostly for install and then burn the 1/4" plates right on to the rear section of the frame.

the pass side is looking more and more like I am going to need to step down a size in tubing. I really don't like making the chassis fit the exhaust. it is a headman y pipe and it gets pretty close to the side of the car.

 

Here is a pic of my passenger side subframe connector before I installed it.


I was able to make the SFC out of 2" square the whole way and not have to use smaller material where it goes over the exhaust. That is a Headman Ypipe in the pic that was modified to 3"