Has any buddy full tub or back half if so how hard is it?

P.S. need help

 

yes but why? the factory style suspension works WAY to well to get rid of it.

 

I just like the look of 15" wide tires under car!!

 

a full tub should fit close to 15" wide tires, possibly. Right now I have 12.50 tires on there with only slight cutting, I'm sure another 2.5" after a full tub could be possible.

 

Check this out: Link

 

Thanks this will help!!

OLDMAN57

 

Here it is before I put it back in presidents day...

 

so it's going in the stock location? stock fuel filler location as well then? I'm guessing that is what the pipe on the end is for.

 

Yep, stock location...it`s for a 4th gen but it`s so close in size if not the same it bolts right in, I`m using the stock straps. The filler neck pipe is in the stock spot, I could use a cut off third gen neck but the fourth gen neck fits the 3rd gen just fine. It`s a bit big for a drag car but I don`t have to worry about firewalls and tanks inside the car, Plus I like to have a little weight over the rear axle.

 

looks pretty nice, I just sumped my factory tank and called it good. Probably going to have to drop it and drill a hole in the top for the return sometime this spring.

 

Who's the jerk that took so long on the axle? It looks great!! I'm looking forward to seeing what she'll do this summer. I'll be seeing you later this morning..


Mike

 

Um, no.

An 8” rim with 4.5”bs will have 4.5” sticking out to the outside of the hub surface (0 offset).

A 10” rim with 5.5”bs will have 5.5” sticking out towards the outside of the hub surface (again, 0 offset).

If you mount the same tire on both those rims the tread will end up in exactly the same place in the wheel well.

 

Um, no....xpndbl3 is right

 

Hi Mike!!
I wouldn`t call the guy a jerk especially if he had my trans and soon to be new converter sitting in his gargare and the tracks were due to open in a month or less!!!!


Guys I got the plastics back in, fudged the passenger side one pretty good...of course the drivers side came out better less some unexpectable mishaps because of 20* plastic (seems to not be too flexable when frozen ) I`ll get a picture or two up in a bit..

 

so 4.5 + 4.5 = 8 ??? and 5.5 + 5.5 = 10??

somewhere your math got wrong. I posted the correct info.

 

he`s right about one thing...."0" offset on a 4.5

https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html#backspace

































....As I was saying.














disclaimer: *all graphic shots of mis-cut plastic have been edited out to maximize your viewing pleasure*

 

Looks real good turned out nice.

 

very nice, now just get some matching carpet and it'll blend in perfectly.

 

i thought you were planning on some tubing braces from the top of the shock "boxes" to the roll cage...

 

I was waiting for this one..Hahahhaa after some debate I was talked into at least a test drive without them. I have to admit once the perches were welded in we cranked the shocks to the tightest valving and had the 175/350 springs on which basically meant that the shocks were now as good as lengths of steel, with all weight we could get on the back and jouncing (or trying too) the suspension, no deflection, no noises...just as stout as the stock mounting if not stouter.
We used a 1/8 to fab the mounts, under the mounts we used a 1/4 thick plate that welded to the oe shock/spring area and it runs to the front of the new perch creating a second layer in the perch itself. This 1/4 piece that straddles both the new perch and the old mounting point has the coil over mounts welded to them. I`m mostly convinced that the mounting point we have created for the shocks is stronger than the stock position that many have used to run coil overs. Will it work?, yes...will it last? time will tell but I `m planning to keep close tabs on the new mounts.

 

few pic`s of it done, it hit the ground last nite finally, it was only one of many projects on the car this year but it all came together, should see the strip here soon after an alignment.





















I love the deep dish look and the tires being tucked under the wells like a stocker!!

 

scott, that looks amazing! good luck with it this season! *sits and waits for for more pics and videos*

 

I know this is an odd question for a mini tub thread but, what size front tire are you running? Your car looks awesome!

 

Interested in pics of how you mounted the front tabs for the dzus fasteners???

 

Thanks! They are 28x4.5 moroso DS2`s

Sure, I still have to get some of the car clean. It`s pretty basic though, I used a .500 reach with the pearch mounted to the inside of the fender and ran the spring on the top of the pearch, not exactly the way to use them but it works, also needed to notch the side lip of the hood to fit over the pearch.
----------

Thanks Matt! How`s the good weather treating you??

 

haha...it's ok with the cooler weather, the 305 went a 12.39 with the only mods real being the fuel system upgrade and the 29x9 hoosiers. i put a 1" spacer under the carb, locked out the timing, and did NO carb tuning and the car went a 12.38 with a DA of nearly 1500ft higher than the previous 12.39. seems to like the carb spacer and locked out timing cause the 12.39 was on a 1.64 60' time, which was fast, but still in the "average" realm. the 12.38 was on a 1.62 60' time and the car had never gotten out of the hole that quickly before.

i got a few more tricks up my sleeve, i'd like to get an msd system with a 3 step module...i think that'll help get outta the hole a little quicker since i'll be flashing the converter off the transbrake.

 

Your 1.6`s are no joke for a 305! sounds like good progress and tuning, I feel sorry for the competition once you get a bit of HP between the fenders You have to have a staging limiter for a transbrake or just matt it everytime! I tried with no 2 step...too hard to do with all the other things to worry about while launching.

 

yeah, right now it's just "stage, hit the button, put foot to floor (tach goes to 4100rpms, right against the converter), and release button". when i was playing with launch rpms on the t-brake (haha, very very difficult) it seemd to like a 3200rpm launch speed. so when i get a msd box and a 3 step module, i'll be able to really tune her in. i think with those things right there, it'll get down in the 1.5x range.

i just wished i could locate a bbc block for not too much (haha, yeah right). i still have those hooker bbc headers and all the stuff i got from you...just no motor

 

hooker bbc headers and all the stuff i got do you want to sell ?

 

possibly. they are not in bolt on and go condition yet. they need to have a couple of sections of tube replaced on the drivers side header...possibly a collector too. might be able to get rid of the dents by filling them with water and freezing them? i have $150 in them so far...i'd need that plus shipping to justify getting rid of them

 

Ok thanks
Don

 

Any ideas on what can be done with the factory plastic? If i did this I would not want the sheet metal exposed.

 

If you go to this length to fit bigger wheels, looks cannot be your primary concern

 

LOL, exactly.

Just cover it all in some kind of matching fabric and call it done.

Drape it over the bare metal with some spray on glue. BAM. interior done.

Then again, the bare metal reminds you what is hiding under there.

 

I have seen a fully tubbed car with the factory plastic peices in. It looked great and the guy said it just took time to get it right. This was a show car, it was at Super Chevy Show at Maple Grove a few years ago. It can be done.

 

For me it would be a major concern having a magazine featured car that shows on a regular basis. With the power I am making and potentially more I feel I am almost forced to do this mod if I want a type of traction and control of the car.

 

im rebuilding my interior plastics as we speak to fit back in over my minitub, i've lost the rear seat due to the loss of width but i will end up with all the pieces back in. In a nut shell, i cut the side panels in half, starting from about 18" off the back of the car, leaving about a 1" lip on the sides, then slowly spread them as they progress to the passenger area and end up with a 3.5-4" wider panels by the time im at the front. some heating/bending required. I almost have the driverside fab work finished, and just started to work on the passengerside last weekend. I will have pics when im finished. I started a thread here in fabrication, i believe its called "building interior panels from fiberglass" it has some pics of my first idea/attempt which was an epic fail, and i believe at the end i have some early pics of the current driver side panel in progress.

sorry to hijack, but like i said, i will have some update pics hopefully this weekend, or next.


found it

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...iberglass.html

 

Very cool!

 

Greezemonkey the car looks awesome! Is that a 4" cowl hood?

 

Thank you! It`s a 4.5 inch

 

VFN?

 

Glasstek or glasstech lift off...very light and fit better than the harwood ever did.

 

Yeah, I noticed it sits flush in the front like the stock hood did. My Harwood has a huge lip in the front and looks like crap. Thanks for the info, I am going to see if they make a bolt on version.

 

FYI fellas. I have a CNC plasma table. If anyone wants to send me a template set I can do a run of the rear boxing plates to do a mini tub. I also have the template to box your stock lower a arms for you guys who road race and such. Once I have the deaign in the computer it is easy to cut out a set. or anything else people can think of to cut out. Thanks

 

I am so doing this to my car. Things I was thinking of changing.
Relocate a fuel cell to the well in the back of the car.
Run an anti roll bar on top of the axle instead of under it.

 

i know its old, and im beating a horse here, but if you grab a tape measure and measure a 10" wide wheel, it will actually measure about 11" wide, the measurement is taken form the inside of the lip, about where the bead sits.

anyway,

greezemonkey, i have the same fuel tank and wondering about what i need to do to attach the filler neck? do you have a pic or parts list from what you did?

thanks

 

I used a filler neck from a 98 camaro, I used the stock rubber hose along with it, just needed to trim it by about an inch and a half. I`ll post the pic`s if I have any..good luck with your project!

 

so the 4th gen filler has a rubber section? hmmm i would like to see the pics if you have, or can get some.

 

only picture I have of it, it`s where I boxed it in on the top

 

Between this thread and another I've been reading on LS1Tech I've started my narrow and Mini tub project. We're starting with a blank 9 inch rear, cutting 10 inches out of it, custom building the bracketry for the spring and control arm mounts.
Right now I have a heavily built stock 10 bolt running a 15x8 with 275 60 -15's.
I'm most likely going to move the front LCA mounts in 2 inches.
I am also going to move the spring mounts inward an inch.

I am going to step up to a 315 50-15 on a 10 inch rim with 4 inches of bs.
I should get a thread started up myself about it.
I still have a lot of measuring and design work before I make the first cut.