XPNDBL3 i was just wondering what width rim you were using with the 6.5 BS a 10 inch right? also what tire are you running on there? who makes the rim? Also did you have any problems with interference with the LCA or anything. I am just finishing up mini-tubbing my car and was looking around for ideas on a setup that would tuck the tires nicely. Thanks for the help.

Greezemonkey your project is looking really good and cant wait to see the end result. Your projects what got me motivated to mini-tub my car so thanks for all the photos and information.

 

15x10 6.5bs weld pro star

28x12.50 tire and a ton of cutting/reshaping. made a post on the drag board about it a long time ago, search for it. i'm running offset LCAs just like greezemonkey posted a few posts ago.

 

i just want to go on record and say how much i love those wheels! it's lookin' great scott, keep up the good work my friend!

 

Thanks for the reply XPNDBL3. I was just wondering if you had to offset the LCA's to fit that wheel and tire or is that somethign you did to give you room in the future because i am using a polybushing on my LCA's and there really wouldnt be a way for me to offset them or atleast to my knowledge. Also what is the section width of those tires your running and the tread width? Thanks again.

 

chro moly double rod ended LCAs that are offset way to the inside. section width and tread width are on the mickey thompson website, I don't remember, I kept cutting until it fit

 

Really having second thoughts on these coil overs in the OE spot, tabs are on the axle already but there is not enough room even using a shorter spring to get the adjusters up higher to clear the tabs...only thing I can do to keep them mounted in near the same location (no other spots anyway) is to create a new upper mounting location just forward of the stock spot, not sure about this one

below is some renderings, basically I would need to fab a "boxed" area for the new mount local, could use a tube to connect and tie them into the roll bar also, just thinking out loud.

 

Thanks Matt....don`t you have the same exact ones ???

 

why yes, yes i do...your pics inspired me to grab some spare rear springs and cut 2 3/4 coils to see how low i could get the back of the car...look pretty good imho, but it won't work for the track, lol!



i have 15x8's with 4.5" BS, so no mini tubing for me...just rolled the lip and i'm good

 

mw66nova I know in a nother post you told me you ran a 10" wide tire with 275/60 with a 5.5 BS and this photo your running a 8" with 4.5 is that the same tire? (which i think it is) It looks like this setup tucks a little more am I right? Also why did you do the change ? Thanks for the help

 

With coil overs, control arms and sway bars all in the same area, it's sure hard to make it all fit. On my car I wanted to move the control arm flush with the cut and plated frame rail, tub, shock and small coil over size spring to get the most room from the mini tub job. The only way I can think of to do this is to mount the shock on the control arm. Here are couple pictures of what I'm thinking of doing and maybe it will help you think of a cure for your car.
Jerry

 

no kidding, that`s a different take on it...I would say you have another 1.5-3 inches with the arms moved inboard like that. Jerry what is your car going to be set up for? how wide of a tire are you putting under it? I`m really considering the shock "tower" mod here...I have only one other option and that is to go to the wolfe spring adjusters and just pull the coil overs off the QA1`s.

 

there were a number of financial reasons for the change. i needed some money so i sold my rodlites, which were 15x10's with 5.5" backspacing. these wheels replaced the rodlites, nearly a year later when my financial situation changed again. i used the 15x8 because i didn't like the way the 15x10's with 5.5" backspacing fit, and i knew what the 15x8's w/ 4.5" backspacing would look like. also, i'm not anticipating running a wider tire than i am, as i've seen many people running this same 275/60/15 tire go very very fast...i've also seen a 295/65/15 on a 15x8 with no real issues, just gotta run bead screws.

 

take some time and hit up ls1tech through a google search and look for the mini-tub threads, there should be 50 different ideas at least. Bunch of them are running the coilovers in the rear as well, but that thin stamped steel will not support the vehicle weight as well. Most that I've seen utilize a piece of roll bar tubing running across the floor there to each coilover shock. Haven't studied too much how they tie that in to be load bearing. Hope this helps a bit
----------
10" rim with 5.5bs will have 4.5" sticking towards the outside of vehicle.
8" rim with 4.5bs will have 3.5" sticking out towards the outside of the vehicle.

Therefore the 8" rim would look tucked 1" more.

Now what I have done is mount a 10" rim with 6.5bs which has the same 3.5" sticking out for the exact same tucked look.

 

2.5 inches from the stock location. Just like if you bolted the control arm to the insde of the stock mount.

Most of the time on the street and some street legal days at the drag strip.


Mickey Thompson E.T. street radial 315/60-15 on a 10 wide wheel.

Jerry

 

Gm you still with use hows the car looking, or are you busy shovling snow?

 

Hahaaa....ha No! actually it`s 61* out right now!! just took the xmas lights down and went a few rounds with the wii game & the kids. I have the tubs here, and I`m going to move the shocks forward and create a tower, I have already fabbed up a box and the tower will be supported by welding it to the frame and flooring, I also have some roll bar pipe left and I will attach a section to the top of the tower and run it up to the cage to support the area as well, I`ll have some pic`s of progress here shortly.
I gotta say this is taking alot longer than I ever imagined.

Oh and I ordered the Wolfe dbl adj panhard bar...got in on the 20% off sale!

 

Good deal . Hope you and the famaly had a good holidays.

 

If that`s directed toward me YES and Thank you! the same to you and yours!

I was injured while at work on the car here a week ago or so..damn metal chip got past the safety glass and I rubbed it right into my eye...well being a mechanic it is nothing new to me, so I tried to get it out for 24 hrs before I gave up and hit the urgent care to have it extracted, I bought goggles after it healed 7 days later..nuff said about that. Now, call me crazy but here`s what I decided to do...there`s no plan, I`m just trying to get it to work with the least amount of resistance! I went ahead and built a couple of shock towers, and as I said above cut some holes to stick these babies up thru....to strengthen it I`m going to tie the shock to the roll bar, it looks like it should work okay, obviously I do not have to worry about a back seat or else this would be a biggie as far as fitting the seat back in.


















Okay lets hear it ...good- bad- or ugly

 

interesting design. I'd also run a crossbrace between the 2 mounts. I'll let someone with more chassis fab knowledge tell you how it'll function/look.

 

Yes I was refrring to you and your family. Good to see you didnt need to go and have it drilled out been there few times. The shock mounts looks good to me.

 

I have given up on how it`s going to look, it`s already too to worry about that, I was thinking about a crossbar also.....


No drill, but the doc used a insulin syrign to pick it out, I suggested a REALLY strong magnet but it didn`t surface gotta be the worst thing in the world seeing that needle come at your eye and knowing the doc has said "what ever you do DO NOT look to the left....NO MATTER WHAT" eh okay....

 

Greezemonkey/Jerrywho: The two of you have inspired me to do this mod. What would you guess the total cost and man hours would be for such a mod? I would like to use the wolfe racecraft pre made kit. The shop that did my cage would more than likely get the call on a project like this, so I need to brace for the sticker shock.

 

20-30 hours at $100 an hour.....wow. Good thing I'll be attempting this myself.

 

I have the following into mine

axle housing ends 100
wheel tubs 90
coil over shocks 250
coil over springs 75

labor to shorten and straighten axle housing, cut and respline axles 100

time I have about 20 hrs right now , that is with fabbing a set of new mounts for the coil overs, welding the adj mounts onto the axle and removing all of the stock spring/shock mounts..I have the passenger side shock tower welded in and the shock mounted at this point also. I would guess with the tub kit from wolfe and a shop doing the work 1,500-2,000 but I`m only guessing

 

Very Interesting. I can only hope it will cost less than 5K.

 

My guess.
$1,800 for the tubs, frame rail, Panhard mount and spring work.
$ 600 for new control arms and mounts for full use of the new tubs.
$ 250 to replace rear roll bar down tubes.

Jerry

 

alright had some progress this weekend, mocked up the rearend along the coilovers and just let me say these adjustable mounts allow for ALOT of range on ride height, I can lay the frame on the ground OR 4X4 it ! It looks amazing with the 5.5 tucked and a good 2 inches under the fender lip on top of that! I will get pic`s of the car on the ground once I install the axle again..I pulled it to continue onthe sheetmetal work (tubs)

here`s my progress report.

 

looks awesome you ready to do mine

 

sure- winter of 09` less of course, something comes up

 

looks like it's coming along nicely

 

looking awesome , i cant wait for more pics.

 

Sweet. The only problem is those dang lower control arms

 

LCAs aren't a problem if you get offset LCAs. You can further relocated them to the inside if you REALLY needed 18-19" of tire under the car

 

Hows it coming along?

 

You know, I logged in this morning and seen the reply but the computer was running really slow & locking....I thought about it on the way to work. I`ve been busy with the front brakes, I got a good deal on a set of new aerospace brakes, I was consumed with that and countless repair work on for friends over the last weekend, modifing the spindles and assembling the parts and installing them onto the car, most of that is done except for the lines. I went ahead and started back up on them tonight...pic`s of progress soon!

 

Okay, I`m seeing the light at the end of the tunnel!! had some good progress this weekend ( give me a brake, I`m getting to be an old timer )

 

looks dang nice to me. Don't worry I haven't even started my mini-tub project yet

I do really enjoy the frictional holding device used to hold up the rear hatch. Looks like it could use a shot of WD40 and a wipe down to bring out that shine. How many inches wide did you end up making the tubs off the outer sheetmetal from the inside of the car?

 

Cool man, Thanks... You like that hatch clamp eh? I found those out in the backyard last spring, I think they`ll need to be cut off with a torch when this is done I was thinking of getting a hold of you about that 4.10 gear, I`m getting close to needing it if it is possible, LMK

 

looking good.

 

All right, worked on this pig all weekend, got the axle back in for the final fit & finish, this project is coming to an end real shortly here. One thing I found out is the nasty fuel tank will not take a stock 3rd gen hanger / pump assembly, the sumps baffeled walls prevent it form dropping down low enough to seat, looks like if the assembly was about 1-1.5 inches shorter all would be good...this will be done at a later time. these will probably be the last pictures I post on this thread unless someone wants to see something specifically, it is for the most part done, I painted the inside of the wells and the interior of the wells will be covered by the factory plastic for the most part...oh I`ll post those pic`s when that is done...if it comes out half *** decent that is. Here`s a few shots of the completion of sunday`s work.

The fuel neck hallway..





right side looking up






rh from behind






LH side looking up





LH from rear




wolfe c/m adj panhard




And aerospace front binders from member 2fst4u92z THANKS!

 

Almost forgot...this ones for Steve...not even a thought of oil till` it locks up !

 

Looks great I want pics out side in all four tires .And nice pair of grips !!

 

No problem Just let me know how the Aerospace setup works out.<-- LOL funny b/c it is -2 out side. I would like to see how the stock plastics fit.

 

haha thanks for the great pic. Still snow on the ground and -3 out, until I get the car on a lift at my buddies shop when it warms up I won't be able to pull that center section out just yet. Hope I'm not holding you up too bad.

 

Will do and thanks! I think it`s going to be in the 30`s next weekend so it should hit the ground by then.


I will have to try and do a good job on the plastic now I`ll post up when it`s in and I will let you know about them front brakes, I have already talked to them about a rear set up...they`ll clock the caliper wherever I want it and drill the pattern according to my spec (90* off) with a stock third gen offset of course! I was going to PM you about that csr water pump , still have it? a buddy needs one for a small block if that`s what it fits..PM me.



Okay, the sooner the better though, I`m looking at having it out to practice mid april. Thanks!

 

ah so march is ok then?

 

Pm`d you-

 

Well, spent a few Hr`s working with fuel cell this weekend, for one thing there`s no way to get the stock third gen hanger in the tank and still have the float work, the baffling inside this thing is crazy, tall walls that create a "bucket" with a 1.25 hole in the floor going to the sump. The placement of the sending unit mounting hole prevents the float from making a full sweep, even cutting the length wont do it, it angles toward the rear of the tank and the angle is all wrong....maybe a LT1 sender would be a better match.
As I struggled with the stock hanger it became apparent it was not going to work with just a simple cut and splice or tweaking of the angle. To be perfectly honest I had intended on leaving a "in tank" pump in the car for shitz and giggles but it wasn`t in the cards....I cut a 4 inch circle out of 1/8 inch aluminum and used a 5/16 steel tube to mount the stock sender / float assembly too. I then drilled a hole to put a 1&1/4 long 1/4 20 bolt thru (nutted and loctited with a copper washer) another hole for the wiring bulkhead that came from the stock sender. I threaded the 5/16 tube onto the 1/4 20 bolt that protudes thru the aluminum plate and soldered it in place once I knew where it went. I have full travel of the float and it will be as accurate as the O.E tank was. XDone!
Now onto the fuel system, I`ll need to pick up a -10 filter, 350gph pump and some sort of -10 line to run up to the motor , anyone have anything for sale like that?

 

pics of fuel cell ?


and your PM is fine no big deal.

 

I`ll snap a few monday. but the plate...I mean "hanger" is already in and sealed.


Ohh and 35 spline..xpndbl3, I meant the pinion, the standard is 28. I WISH I had 35 spline axles, shoot then there would be no wondering if it`ll make it every trip down the strip, = no fun