"heavily built stock 10 bolt" is that like an oxymoron? more like heavily built ticking time bomb lol not meant to be rude just joking around about how junky 10 botls are. good luck on new project.

 

"10 bolt" is a vauge term. GN guys are in the high 9's with an 8.5 with Moser axles and a T/A performance cover. But yea, I haven't seen a 7.5 last to more than 400 HP with any kind of traction.

 

Strange axles, c-clip eliminators, ta performance cover, richmond gears and an auburn locker out back makes a stock 10 bolt pretty heavily built. With 200+ passes down the strip and 15000 + miles it's worked flawlessly. With my expectations exceeding 450 hp and attempting to attain mid - low 10's and the ability to drive it on the street whenever i want to is the only reason I'm even replacing my rear end.

 

ah, but you haven't even addressed the real problem area of those rearends. the problem isn't the axles, though we've all seen 'em ripped apart right at the splined end, it's actually the case around the pinion gear. i see you're atleast attempting to address that issue with the girdle cover but that's not gonna stop case flex up front.

you need a solid pinion spacer by Ratech, costs about $20 and is all the insurance you need to keep that little 10 bolt together till you can afford a big-boy rearend (read: M9", S60, or 12 bolt)

 

I'm gonna throw that lil 10 bolt in my 92rs v6 car because it was a drum brake rear originally. The cars are about to go on the back burner for the next year or so because I am going to an advanced military occupation school.

 

I have seen the responses to this thread and how it`s been used as a guide to mini tubing and I just wanted to add that the outer half of the wheel wells do not need to come out for a street type car, to put a 29+ slick type tire and run some big mph it is needed because of tire expansion at speed but the quarter panel does become a limiting factor eventually, for radials and street type tires I would choose to leave the stock outer halves in. I got a decent set of pictures from the track for comparison sake I wanted to post, the tires in the after picture are actually larger diameter and width( the cut down axle really makes it but a wheel backspace change could do the same thing) ....good luck to all the mini-tubers out there!

BEFORE





AFTER

 

hey scott, do you think you'd see any advantage to running a little more air in those back tires? seems like they're trying to fold in the after picture...

i still can't get over how awesome it looks though! i'm so glad i went with a 6.5" backspacing this time around so i don't have to worry about narrowing the rear to get the same effect.

 

I dunno, I was using 15 psi that day and it was hooking great, gave me a 1.27 that day..I could try next year 1/2 pound or 1 pound more, good point, thanks!

 

Isn't that how a slick is supposed to work? the more wrinkle the longer the foot print, the more traction? Maybe I'm not understanding what you're pointing out.

 

You want the slick to "wrinkle" as little as possible, thus decreasing your 60 ft. times. Rule of thumb I have always used was to start out at a specified pressure and INCREASE .5 lbs at a time until you begin to slow down in the 60. The more psi you can run the more stable the car will be at speed.

 

meh I always start high and drop .5 pound at a time until the 60' stops improving, starting rather low is a risky way of doing it, the car may feel loose at the big end.

 

Yeah, I guess I should have started out stating that I use a reasonable psi to start out with....for my 10.5 stiff walls I started out at 11 and ended up and 12. Which after doing some checking, ends up that my psi while staged is 12.5 due to the increase in psi caused by the burnout.

 

you don't want it to wrinkle cause it'll cause it to fold over itself, thus REDUCING foot print...which is bad...

 

Scott, what size of universal tubs did you start with? Me and a buddy are looking into mini tubbing our cars and were just curious. Thanks!

 

I`m fairly sure it was 38 inch tubs, and from what I recall they were perfect, had to trim some off, but there is so much width left over even a 36 could be used. Good luck it`s a job but has great benefits.

 

Ah. Point taken. Thus we never stop learning. thanks. G

 

I'm subscribing here too.

 

a little new here and have never done anything remotley close to the intricasies of a tub. anything you guys can tell me about what i need to do to out the biggest wheel possible without cutting, welding, and relocating? im picking up a twelve bolt this weekend and it needs to be cut to fit anyway soooo i want to go as far as i can without completely redoing the wheel well fabrication.

 

what 12 bolt? if its not a 3rd or 4th gen specific one with the torque arm mount, i wouldnt even look at it. Getting the torque arm mount fabbed is going to be difficult and costly if you have to pay somebody to do it.

 

really? I always thought any 12 could be cut to fit. It's from a second gen that I found. I THOUGHT 150 sounded like a good find but if it's gonna be a giant pain in the a** I guess it doesn't make much sense.