I HAVE A 84 CAMARO Z28 WITH MANUAL WINDOWS WOULD LIKE TO CONVERT CAN SOMEONE TELL ME HOW THIS IS DONE

PICTURE TUTORIAL WOULD BE A BIG HELP

 

could always get new doors that already have them and then wire them up. Someone might make a kit maybe? I know theres a kit for older chevy trucks to convert from manual to power.

 

SO JUST BUY SOME POWER WINDOW DOORS AND HOW WOULD I WIRE IT AND WHERE WOULD I WIRE IT TO AS FAR AS A SWITCH

 

well the stock switches go in the center counsel behind the shifter. the power windows should be easy to wire. If it is like my truck, the window motor has 2 wires, which are both positive. the motor grounds on the door. the switch would be a on/off/on. you would run power to the switch and the motor would go to each side so when you push "up" it connects power to one of the wires from the motor making it go up.

 

Do camaros come stock with the power window connectors ready?

 

Old doors may have stock (20+ year motors in them)...

Spahl (or some other company) makes kit that work on manual doors...

It's an electric motor attached to a round stretched out O, with a gear at the other end...
The gear goes over your existing window crank handle... They sell switches too...

I would go that route, cuz "new" doors will more than likely require "new" stock motors and that's a whole lotta work to replace those too...

Rafael

 

SPAL makes kits to convert to power windows . i have them in my car , work great , good instructions . much easier & cheaper than trying to convert with stock factory parts . just my experience , good luck .

 

No they dont come pre wired with the window component wiring, they have a power spot on the connection for the inside power located above the drivers side kick panel, the power window/lock subharness plugs in here, the harness runs along the front edge of the dash over to the passenger side for the door, and along the drivers side rocker towards the rear, then heads over to the console area below the drivers seat for the window switches.

The doors are drilled for both the manual and power regulators, you'll have to remove yours, and then best method is to install the power regulators with the 1/4" rivets like factory, but this generally requires an air rivet gun which most dont have.

New GM power window motors i'm finding for $45 ea, i'd much sooner convert again with factory components.

 

The switches go in the center console on each side of the hatch release.
And there is no need to use all CAPS, makes it harder to read and is considered impolite.

 

Also another thing to consider is power doors usually also have power mirrors. If you can try and find someone parting out their car, and take everything you possibly can.
I managed to find a car that no one picked off of yet and we tore apart the entire interior so i could get all the wiring, switches, the center console, and the door panels, because you don't want a big half inch hole to stare at.
The power mirror switch in the drivers side door would also be something you'd need. I don't remember if the manual door, the plastic piece the arm rest screws into if there's a empty slot for the power mirror switch.

Power locks could also come into play.. again more wiring... It's a very daunting task, because you know the doors work... but getting them to work again in your car is well... "fun"

 

"power doors" have power windows and locks, power mirrors you mention are the option.

The door handle trim inside does have a removable panel that the door lock switch panels go into, same with power window option it replaces the one where the manual mirror adjuster stick is.

 

i got a kit from thirdgenranch to covert to power windows and locks. didnt included window switches but included lock switch it was alot cheaper then getting different doors

 

I'm not sure I want to know how much they charged you for this "kit"
.......

 

it was like 75 shipped

 

i did a conversion and left the doors that came with my car, did it by myself, and i was only 15. they are the factory motors and wiring harness i got from a buddy. pm me if u want e to tell u directions on how i did it

 

Can I have the direction on how to do it.

 

this may be a little off.
to do power window conversion:
materials needed 1/4in bolts 1/2in long 8 if just doing power windows 14 if doing power locks too.
installing the regulator:
step 1 remove door panels
step 2 put windows all the way up and have someone hold it up while you do the work.
step 3 remove the vertical tracks then drill out the pop rivets that hold the manual regulators on.
step 4 once the regulator is loose slide it towards the quarter panels until 3 of 4 rollers are loose then move the arm that the 4th is on until it can slide out. pay attention how the arm was sitting
step 5 put the 2 arms together then pull it toward you until it clears the door frame then slide it the rest of the way out.
step 6 make sure the power window regulator is in the up position
step 7 slide the regulator in the rear access hole were you pulled out the manual regulator
step 8 slide the rollers onto the tracks.
step 9 once all the rollers are on the 2 tracks put the regulator in place into the hole pattern that wasn't used by the manual regulator. use the bolts to mount it into place so if you have to remove it its a lot easier to get the nuts into place i taped them onto the open end of the wrench.
step 10 reinstall the vertical track with the stops

install the lock solonoid
step 1 you will see 3 holes and a slot in the door frame behind rear access panel the 2 lower holes are for the solonoid the soloniod plug faces the access hole.
step 2 install the bracket attached to the solonoid if you look in the door frame at inner lock arm the you will notice a bend in it hook the braket on it. step 3 the bracket will slide into the slot for in the frame then put a bolt through the hole in the frame that lines up with the hole in the bracket.
step 4 bolt on the solonoid.

to install wiring harness
step 1 remove the kick panels, console top half, lower dash covers if you have, and 2 plugs on each side 1 on the door frame and 1 under the kick panel.
step 2 feed the wires under the dash and the switch wires through the console feed the wires and loom thing that goes to the door through the hole behind kick panel then feed the wires through the hole in the door then just push the loom until ends are in the 2 holes.
step 3 find the correct plugs under the dash and plug in the plugs. plug the wires into the regulator and lock solonoid. the wires for the lock solonoid run on the outside of the door frame in a channel
step 4 cut the holes in your console for the switches.
step 5 reassemble the console under dash panels, kick panels and door panel you will need a plug for were the manual window arm use to go through the panel unless you got new door panels.

 

one thing to consider before you do this. Do you have T-Tops? And more importantly do they leak? I like my manual windows, the motor never goes out. Its a pain driving down the road an adjusting the passenger side window. A friend of mine has a 4th gen with ttops and hes replaced 3 power window units over a few years, it needs anouther one now.

 

Great write up. I followed this to a tee. I have one of the doors pretty much done. The window goes down to the bottom but gets stuck and doesn't want to move more than 2 inches going up. Any idea what's going that issue? My battery is only pushing about 9 volts so that's a factOr

Thanks for your time.
I

 

its most likely the voltage these motors can use alot of power and going down it has gravity helping it.

 

I believe my wires to the window moter are brown and grey. Where would I connect those wires to?

 

I bought the kit and also downloaded and printed a complete pictorial step by step guide. However I decided to auto-x the car and am lightening it bit by bit so may sell the kit plus all the related switches for windows and locks. Also have a parts car with all power windows/locks/mirrors. Sadly the buy with the conversion instructions died and his site is gone. I'll try to find an alternate link.

 

how about a link to the kit ?

 

This link has links to the full window and lock installation instructions with pictures of every step. http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/thirdgen/index.html 3rd gen ranch only have the kit occasionally. I assume when they get a car to pull it from.

 

i belive those are the power lock wires are they long when it come out of the boot that goes into the door

 

Dont mean to hi jack, just have a quick question. Does a car with power windows, but no power locks have the lock wiring already in the door?

 

no all it has for the power locks is a plug under the dash to plug the harness into

 

I recently purchased an 89 for parts to use on my 86. I was thinking about doing this with my car using all the factory components so it looks better.

 

To make things easy, i would just install the new window control switches into the doors. That way all you would have to do is run your power into each door and not have to worry about running wiring back through the door, under the dash, and into the center console.
I have an '88 IROC that has power windows and i have been thinking about pulling them to save the weight and go to a manual setup.
Let me know if you're interested...since you're not too far from me.

 

FWIW, this is a very old thread. (05-08-2010)

zaxanllc, I have one of my cars set-up for power windows and I recommend grabbing the harness from the parts car you already have.
Part of it runs across the front of the dash pad just below the window. It comes with conduit as well.
It's a little involved, but not a big deal. It's relatively easy to pull the clips off of the wiring inside of the door and route the harness and accordion style rubber conduit back through the holes in the door and body. Same goes for where it runs under the carpet along the drivers side for the switches. You may have to replace some of the clips, and as far as that goes I haven't looked yet for replacements. Most you can pinch from behind with a needle nosed pliers, pull out and reuse.

If you grab the entire harness you should be able to hook it up to the fuse block as well and also have the proper size wiring. IMO, there is a lot of engineering involved with the stock parts, things like wire chafing, wire size, wire length etc. There would also be less patchwork and/or cobbling things together. My only complaint about the stock window set up is that it is too slow.

You could still swap doors vs. replacing the internal window motor/gear assembly, but imo that is another can of worms. If you don't like the doors you have then it may be a good opportunity to do so.

But yes, in my case everything for power windows and locks were missing. One thing I do not know for sure is if the different years are compatible. I'm guessing they are and if not it would probably be something minor.

That write up looks pretty good. I've noticed on some center consoles or shift plates that the location for the switches is marked on the underside. When cutting the holes for the switches I recommend drilling holes on each of the four corners and then cutting the straight sections with a dremel or small saw.