What fuel? What ignition? How much ignition timing?

 

how did ya like How it worked..
did you do all of the lip? or just 3/4 of the top.

 

Mallory Hyfire 6 (685 box), stock dizzy with new ignition module, and I think a upgraded hypertech coil (external mount 87-up style). 8mm wires, NGK BKRE8IX plugs at .026-.028, and right now it was running 33 deg at 6psi and 26 deg at 14-15 psi boost. Mid 11's air fuel. Timing seems very aggressive for 93 oct only but its working.

I'm gonna try a hotter coil and maybe new wires but first just gap the plugs alittle tighter

 

what shocks do u have on the rear

 

Those are some no name shocks. Now I have Afco shocks on the rear.

 

Are you sure you have enough valve spring? It sounds to me like a case of not enough ignition or not enough of Valvespring to control the valvetrain.

I brought up timing because when using race fuels, if I did not run enough ignition timing, I would misfire at higher loads.

 

I should have rolled the lip before I minitubbedthe car. When I rolled the lip it seems like the top was very easy but the front and back quarter panel would move when I tried to exert pressure with the tool. I wonder if I had attempted that before I minitubbed the car if I would've been more successful.

 

Well i sent a pm to my cam guy to see what he thinks but my thoughts were same thing... Not enough spring or else ignition. Ignition is quick and easy to play with so thats what i will try next. Plug gap and coil swap. Maybe larger wires

 

dammit lol the shocks on the back of my iroc look identical was hoping u knew what they were and if they had numbers on them so i could see if mine were the same

i cant find out any info on mine but i think they are 50/50 drag shocks lakewoods maybe, since my iroc came with some tubular control arms and other parts on it

 

Just saw this. saw -1.05g using the chutes to stop from ~170 at TI. Third hit of the day on saturday was my last, we had a 20-30 mph crosswind and it woke me up to say the least when the chutes came out! I had one more race scheduled, but I was done.

 

im going to slice the inner lip. at 9 & 3 oclock. to let if fold back when i do it. so it cant pull on it's self..ill lay the lip back at the 3/9.

Ill go to the parts yard first..lol.. and try it

 

Great job! Makes my 200hp feel like a pedal car... but there's always more later!

 

Installed quik latch hood pins today, still using the stock hood latch too.

I want to paint them to match, I don't like the look though..... but having the hood stay closed is more important.

 

Wherd did you get those hood pins at and how much +shipping. Ill buy mine today. Also where did you mount the pin its self at on the core support? Mine is already painted so id hate to drill a new hole

 

Here's a link: http://www.jegs.com/p/Quik-Latch/Qui...47425/10002/-1

I mounted the pins where the stock height adjusters go. No cutting involved to the core support. I centerpunched the location where the height adjusters had worn the stock paint away, and drilled from the underside... then used a 2" holesaw to make the holes.

 

Those are sharp but just sucks that their is no way to lock them. Tradition style you can put a mini pad lock on them to keep thieves out.

 

keep your stock latch also and you dont have to lock the pins, i think thats what andrew did

 

Too late. Done shaved the back side of my hood and shaved the hole for the cable to go through the firewall. Have to figure something else out

 

The FAST Efi has been taken off the car and sold.... a new EFI box with traction control and 16 injectors is coming soon!

Oh, new front wheels too.

 

Awesome this project just keeps getting better and better please take lots of pictures.

 

!!!!!Holly chit!!!!!


WINNING

 

Got the new 18" RT-S fronts on. I plan to borrow a set of 18x12 RT-S rears with 345 MT radials, and if they hook I'm going to buy some matching rears for the street. If not, I'll keep the 15" RT-S rears on it.

 

interesting, you still have the rustang don't you?

 

Under the car cover.

 

How much were those wheels. They look like the c5 wheels but deeper dish with a "double" lip

 

i dont think they look anything of the like, but ive got a different set of eyes.

id like to see a shot out of the garage, but im thinking the 18 and 15's are a mismatch, IMO.

 

I run the mickey street radial 2's in 19" 305/35 size and they hook well on my car. Probably 750whp or so. May work ok for you too in 18" or 15" whatever you run

 

for sure they don't look as good as 18's all around, but at least they are the same style wheel.

 

I have nitto drag radials on the 19x12's I own, even on the wastegate (8 psi) they are worthless in low gear.

I'm planning on borrowing a buddy's 18x12 wheels with 345 MT radials on them, if they hook on the street on the gates I'll buy a matching set.

 

My buddy ran 345 m&h and also 315 MT's on his 540whp ls7 z06. 6 spd it has dipped into 1.4's 60 ft but typically 1.5's. Another local kid with a mid 500whp stang and 5 spd went 1.5's 60 on 18" mickeys. They are good tires but you have loads more torque

Let me know how it goes. I have seen the 20" nt05r nitto drags go 1.6 60's in a super heavy mr norms stage 3 challenger. Car ran 130 mph traps with 6 spd. They arent as good as mickey i guess but they should be better than any street tire. Hard to get anything 17"+ to hook

 

I've been working on installing the Holley Dominator EFI. It's more difficult than the FAST was, mostly because it takes a 'roll your own' approach and is much more versatile.

Here's the injector harnesses that I'm working on, I'm going to run 16 injectors in a staged configuration.... the harness that they sell for this is an unterminated universal harness. The first 8 injectors are run in sequential mode, and the last 8 are run in a 'paired' bank to bank mode with 2 injectors sharing an injector driver. Holley advised me to share drivers across banks, so I'm going to share 1 with 6, 2 and 8, 3 and 5, and 4 and 7.

8 primary drivers cut to length, pins crimped on and soldered.


ground side of connector inserted into primary injector driver connector. The power is shared, and required some more work to hook 4 wires to 1 and then to the connector.


Loom installed and ready to go!


Universal ignition harness. I'm using a magnetic crank trigger and cam sensor to tell the holley box which cylinder is #1.


Connectors attached, wires trimmed to length, and loom installed.


Universal harness they sent required some TLC, all of the wires weren't where I needed them to be so I had to take the tape and loom off, reroute them, and reinstall all of the tape and loom. Kind of a PITA.


Cut out the inner footbox on passenger side where the antenna passes through, installed a firewall grommet and ran the main harness, antenna, and my boost controller speed sensor through it.


Mounted the holley dominator efi box below the HVAC in the passenger footwell. I really wanted to hide the thing, but this box is BIG, and I feel that this is the best that I could do. Anyone else have suggestions for where to put it?

 

And by some magical power this build got even better. Thank you for the pics and updates.

 

Forgot to post this, I ran some braided wire shield around the cam and crank sensors, grounded at one end to keep them noise free, and keep them from coupling noise into other sensors.

 

Mounted my dominator in the same location

 

Got rails, dummy injectors, and bungs from racepart solutions.



Got the car running with the 36# injectors, wanted to go do some driving. Car idles and cruises nice with the small injectors, I can see 15:1 A/F if I want to. It also runs out of injector at 4200 rpm and 5 psi of boost! lol

 

I need to buy/borrow some 18x12 RT-S wheels for a photo shoot....

One thing I found is that the center caps that came with the front wheels were not deep enough to clear the dust covers. Is this a common thing? What do people do that buy weld wheels? I bought the wheels sized so that I wouldn't need any spacers.

 

Is that just elcheapo hose dress up braid for noise suppression? If so I like it, looks nice too. I just went sequential and actually am in the middle of wiring it. I have shielded wire on my crank and cam but these would dress it up a bit and serve a purpose.

As for your wheels i was looking at the Welds last year. They sell multiple BS and offsets. I bet the offset is wrong.

 

It's probably the same stuff, I got it at an electronics store. If you do it this way it is critical that you only ground the shield at one point.

I actually put the black loom around it to keep the braid from grounding at multiple points.

 

That is strange. I have had Rod Lites and Magnum 2.0s on my car, and never had an issue with the cap.

MAybe give weld a call and see if they have different caps avalible.


But, IMO it looks silly with the 18" front and 15" rear.

 

My harness wires are shielded to begin with. I would use this more as a dress up than for actually shielding RF. I will only ground one end though. Thanks for the tip.

Cant you clearance (read, hammer time) your dust caps so the caps fit?

 

Nah, it needs really a lot of extra room...

JB, Weld sells a centercap that is 1" deeper, I have a pair on order. I think they will work.

If the 18's will work with drag radials, I'll buy a set for the street, but I've already done the 18/19 with nitto DR on the 19's, and they were pretty useless. I'd rather have traction than look good.

 

Made some progress on the dual injector setup.

This shows the injector orientation... my big concern was that I might not have enough room for the electrical connectors... the inner cylinders on both sides are the places that will give me the problem if I'm going to have it.


We set the intake up on the mill, oriented it so that we were parallel with the existing fuel rail in the 'X' direction, and punched the holes for all the injector bungs. I got the bungs from racepart solutions, they were .748" or so in diameter. We cut .750" holes.


Cutting the rail to length and facing it on the mill.


We used the Ross Machine rails and machining tool to do the job. It made it super easy to do, and we ended up with a pretty nice result.


Here I am tapping the rail ends for 3/4-16 threads so I can use a -8AN fitting with an oring to seal.


Mocked up with the racepart solutions dummy injectors.


I welded most of the bungs, I couldn't get to the top of the inside of the bungs on the inner cylinders, so I'm farming that work out. Welding the cast was pretty difficult, there are a few beads I'm proud of, but overall it's not something I'm pleased with. Yeah, it'll work but it's not the most aesthetic job ever.

I also melted the inside of the bungs in a few spots (ID of the bung just barely started to sag) which will require some finish work. The end product will be acceptable though.

 

I used 1" round stock for my bungs. I didnt know anyone made dummy injectors. My thought was to drill and tap for like 1/4-20 and use a piece of flat bar to keep everything in line while welding. I was also worried I'd melt the bung too. I am certainly going to wait to final drill mine when they are all welded up. After yours melting.

Here's mine.

I drilled mine upside down and used the digi read out to make notes of where the centers were. That way when I did my rails I would know right where the centers are.


Here's where I left off with the bungs faced and center drilled. Good job on yours, I love that 1920's Bridgeport vise. Really, its cool. Not trying to jack your thread with my pics, yours just reminded me.

 

Very nice looking 77nomad!

I got one hold rail held down now... used 1/8" x .5" flat steel bar, cut such that final dimensions after a 90 degree bend were 1.3" x .6".

I tapped the rail and intake for 10-32, used stainless buttonhead screws to hold it down.





As you can see, I'm going to need to notch the rail for electrical connector clearance. Then it's polish time, followed by anodizing.

 

I would like to see before and after on the insides of the runners. I left enough on mine to blend into the runner and keep the injector tip just barely in the stream. I like the cutter you used for the rail. My brother in law makes carbide cutters for a living. All kinds of custom cutter really. Not standard sizes. If I can give him dimensions I could use that to make my bungs in one cut. Lastly did you weld the bungs inside the runners too?

 

lookks great. I love this build...


I did my own Vic. jr years ago also for a turbo build.
Make my own bungs. etc.. Did like 77man did. I set em down in the runners a little for when I ported and smoothed everything out.









I wasnt going for looks at all. So dont mind the welds

 

Funny thing is I used a Nardini lathe just like yours to make my bungs.

 

We did not weld the inside of the runners, but I did farm out the blending of the bungs to a local head porter, Trevor Johnson. It turned out very nicely! I wish I had gotten some pictures before I put the intake on the engine.

Got the rails all polished up and they're off getting hard anodized now.


I'm lucky I saw this, split in the beltdrive belt... got a belt service kit on the way.

 

good thing you caught that!

 

I hope this will be enough fuel for now....