2k hp capable street car build
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Henrietta NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am L69
Engine: Sniper EFI Powered 355
Transmission: WC T5 w/ Steel Support Plate
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Looking good
Also nice Z06
Or for our Canadian members Zed06
Also nice Z06
Or for our Canadian members Zed06
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Thanks! I'm hoping to try to fire it off this weekend. Fuel system holds 90 psi with no leaks.... I set the pressure to 60 static to start with, should give me some room to grow.
The z06 is a 2002 that I've had since new, got a forged heads/cam/exhaust ls3 in it... The daily beater.
The z06 is a 2002 that I've had since new, got a forged heads/cam/exhaust ls3 in it... The daily beater.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 510
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Close to firing it off. Engine primed, fuel system checked, coolant filled.
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From: Shakopee, Mn
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: T5
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
What a rats nest! You have done an amazing job of shoe horning a ton of stuff into that engine bay. Good luck with the first, in this car, start!
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 510
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Thanks!
Got a few issues.
1. Coolant leak between head and block on rear drivers side. Going to try a gm stop leak tab, that should take care of it... Not a gusher, just an annoyance.
2. Pretty good oil leak. I think it's the oil return to the tank, I left that one fitting loose but I'll have to see if there is anything else leaks once that is fixed.
3. Key doesn't turn engine over. Think I didn't get the vats right once I yanked the stock computer. Should be easy to figure out.
4. Trans has no forward or reverse gears. I think its low on fluid, i changed pans and refilled it without running the trans, probably needs another quart or two while running.
5. Yanked drivers valve cover to set lash on a couple rockers while hot (al heads and block, wanted to set hot and see what the cold measurement was so i could always set them cold) and two plug wires broke in the spark plug boot when pulled them off. Need new wires.
All said, i see how to get there from here and i think its possible.
Got a few issues.
1. Coolant leak between head and block on rear drivers side. Going to try a gm stop leak tab, that should take care of it... Not a gusher, just an annoyance.
2. Pretty good oil leak. I think it's the oil return to the tank, I left that one fitting loose but I'll have to see if there is anything else leaks once that is fixed.
3. Key doesn't turn engine over. Think I didn't get the vats right once I yanked the stock computer. Should be easy to figure out.
4. Trans has no forward or reverse gears. I think its low on fluid, i changed pans and refilled it without running the trans, probably needs another quart or two while running.
5. Yanked drivers valve cover to set lash on a couple rockers while hot (al heads and block, wanted to set hot and see what the cold measurement was so i could always set them cold) and two plug wires broke in the spark plug boot when pulled them off. Need new wires.
All said, i see how to get there from here and i think its possible.
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
All issues aside, congrats on getting it started up and "finished" lol Almost there, just gotta work out the quirks as with any build.
Ditto on the trans fill. I did mine cold and when started up, i had no gears. Took alot more fluid til it started working.
Ditto on the trans fill. I did mine cold and when started up, i had no gears. Took alot more fluid til it started working.
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From: Arlington, Tx
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: empty bay (for now)
Transmission: Built T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 stock posi disc
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
x2 on the trans. did the same thing when i swapped 700r4s in my truck. took another 3 quarts before it moved.
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From: Katy TEXAS (West Houston)
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 TBI L03 V8
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 W/ Corvette shift kit
Axle/Gears: 2:73 open
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Nice build. Have to see it run sometime.
Thread Starter
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Thanks guys! Looked into the vats a bit more, I'm missing a 5v regulated voltage with some series resistance from the stock ECM. I wasn't going to mess with that, so I grounded the black with yellow stripe wire going to the starter enable relay instead and it works!
The oil leak looks largely limited to the one hose fitting that was loose, but only one way to find out.
I'm relieved to hear that I'm probably right about the transmission.
New plug wires and time to try again!
Fwiw i set the lash to .026" hot and it shrunk to .008-.009" cold.... BIG difference!
The oil leak looks largely limited to the one hose fitting that was loose, but only one way to find out.
I'm relieved to hear that I'm probably right about the transmission.
New plug wires and time to try again!
Fwiw i set the lash to .026" hot and it shrunk to .008-.009" cold.... BIG difference!
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From: Houston MS
Car: 87 GTA Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi 3.23
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Just read the whole this.
All I can say is WOW! Would love to see this car in person someday.
All I can say is WOW! Would love to see this car in person someday.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 510
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Idle clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39icT...e_gdata_player
Gm seal tabs in the radiator, two more quarts of trans fluid. Car moves now, might need a bit more fluid. Oil leak looks to be fixed, time will tell.
Gm seal tabs in the radiator, two more quarts of trans fluid. Car moves now, might need a bit more fluid. Oil leak looks to be fixed, time will tell.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Had kid #2 2/24, been pretty tired since!
Car is a little loud, so I added some mufflers to it... that I could easily remove once I'm out of the neighborhood.






Pretty ugly, but they work. I took it out and made maybe 1/2-1 psi of boost, and uhoh... made some memories though.
Car is a little loud, so I added some mufflers to it... that I could easily remove once I'm out of the neighborhood.






Pretty ugly, but they work. I took it out and made maybe 1/2-1 psi of boost, and uhoh... made some memories though.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 510
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 510
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Just getting some street miles on it.
This dry sump is a different animal, the full procedure is different, get it wrong and it pukes oil until it gets to a happy level. Also when you stop the engine, the oil backfills the pan and it finds any and all leak points. In going to have to yank the pan back off and glue it to the block. Not excited about that.
This dry sump is a different animal, the full procedure is different, get it wrong and it pukes oil until it gets to a happy level. Also when you stop the engine, the oil backfills the pan and it finds any and all leak points. In going to have to yank the pan back off and glue it to the block. Not excited about that.
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From: St.Cloud, FL
Car: '85 Sport Coupe/Z28
Engine: N/A 350
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: Factory 10-bolt w/3.08
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Yamabond 4. Made by, you guessed it, Yamaha. Great for aluminum to aluminum surfaces, oil, heat, vibration resistant, and it sets in an hour (or less, depending). Similar to RTV.
I use it on the engine cases for my dirt bikes, stuff is gold.
I use it on the engine cases for my dirt bikes, stuff is gold.
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From: p'cola FL
Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
on the tranny cooler not working, a friend of mine has his mounted in the bed of an s10 with a fan on it. running with the bed cover closed in the florida heat, it runs fine. he does have the bed floor hole-sawed-out below the cooler. its mounted at about a 45 degree angle.
ive also seen them done mounted on an angle behind the rearend, but all in trucks or cars with fuel cells. stock tank might hinder that. but in reality, you still might be ok where you have it mounted.
how did the steering effort turn out? lot of work in here that is appreciated.
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Some more updates.... got the car out last friday, turned the timing down to 18 degrees total and we tuned the A/F on the highway to 10.5-10.8:1... should be REAL conservative.
Got some pics of the car:



The car made 8-8.5 psi on the highway in high gear from a 50 roll until I got out of it, around 6k rpm. It held the power in that gear on the 345/19 nitto drag radials, but wouldn't hold it in low gear... it just blew the tires off.
The acceleration that I logged was between .7-.75 G for all of high gear until I let out.
Here's a pic of the plug a couple days later. You can't read the fuel off of it, but note the lack of a timing mark on the strap. I bet I pick up another 150 rwhp from wherever I'm at now once I put some timing in it.

Get the car back, next day run the valves, they were slightly loose but not bad. Set them all at .010" since it was a bit warmer. Go to turn the car around so I can work on the oilpan, and the brakes die......
I find this:


Pretty awesome huh, the male -3 thread on the banjo fitting adapter broke off. Not sure how that happened.....
Got some pics of the car:



The car made 8-8.5 psi on the highway in high gear from a 50 roll until I got out of it, around 6k rpm. It held the power in that gear on the 345/19 nitto drag radials, but wouldn't hold it in low gear... it just blew the tires off.
The acceleration that I logged was between .7-.75 G for all of high gear until I let out.
Here's a pic of the plug a couple days later. You can't read the fuel off of it, but note the lack of a timing mark on the strap. I bet I pick up another 150 rwhp from wherever I'm at now once I put some timing in it.

Get the car back, next day run the valves, they were slightly loose but not bad. Set them all at .010" since it was a bit warmer. Go to turn the car around so I can work on the oilpan, and the brakes die......
I find this:
Pretty awesome huh, the male -3 thread on the banjo fitting adapter broke off. Not sure how that happened.....
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I had an older NGK A/F meter laying around, I decided to see if it would fit in the formula cowl portion of the hood. Like a glove!

Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
on the tranny cooler not working, a friend of mine has his mounted in the bed of an s10 with a fan on it. running with the bed cover closed in the florida heat, it runs fine. he does have the bed floor hole-sawed-out below the cooler. its mounted at about a 45 degree angle.
ive also seen them done mounted on an angle behind the rearend, but all in trucks or cars with fuel cells. stock tank might hinder that. but in reality, you still might be ok where you have it mounted.
ive also seen them done mounted on an angle behind the rearend, but all in trucks or cars with fuel cells. stock tank might hinder that. but in reality, you still might be ok where you have it mounted.
I got the stock chin spoiler fabbed onto the radiator core support, now when I'm rolling it holds the engine coolant temperature down nicely.
how did the steering effort turn out? lot of work in here that is appreciated.
I also have what I think is a bit too much angle in one of the ujoints, you can feel it bind slightly when turning the wheel.
When you're moving the effort isn't too bad.
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From: p'cola FL
Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
from the pic of the plug, i see that there may be too much timing in it. but where who knows if you didnt cut it clean after a wide open pull. could be too much at wot, cruise or at idle. youve got some fuel burnt off the base, the strap is not "wet". it does no good unless you take a grinder and cut the threads off to see way down in the porcelin, but any idle time with color them up fast. idle is only the tip of the porcelin, could probably go a touch leaner there by looking at it. assuming you didnt cut it off clean and pull the plug out.
its going to need those 315's on it real soon.
its going to need those 315's on it real soon.
Thread Starter
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 510
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
from the pic of the plug, i see that there may be too much timing in it. but where who knows if you didnt cut it clean after a wide open pull. could be too much at wot, cruise or at idle. youve got some fuel burnt off the base, the strap is not "wet". it does no good unless you take a grinder and cut the threads off to see way down in the porcelin, but any idle time with color them up fast. idle is only the tip of the porcelin, could probably go a touch leaner there by looking at it. assuming you didnt cut it off clean and pull the plug out.
its going to need those 315's on it real soon.
its going to need those 315's on it real soon.

Here's a pic pre-cleaning. As far as fueling, i agree with you. This pic is 20 miles of cruising after the WOT pulls.

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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
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From: Ogden UT
Car: '88 Camaro (Gone...)
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
The header quality is a bit disappointing... Hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like the flanges were CNC plasma cut? At least that's how they look in the first pic. The plasma cut edge will actually rust if it's not cleaned up 
Great job on the build though!

Great job on the build though!
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 42
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From: Salmon Idaho
Car: 82 TransAm (45,000 original miles)
Engine: 305 TBI Cross-Fire
Transmission: 3 speed automatic
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I first clicked on this thread thinking ok here we go. Another dreamer. It didn't take me long to see your work and realize sh#$ he is serious. Excellent work and excellent documentation/pictures my friend. Great family also you are a lucky man.
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Thanks guys!
Been a while, got the oil leak mostly fixed. The pan doesn't leak anymore, but now that I have that fixed I can see that the valvecovers do. I'm guessing that the spring oiling mod that I did to the rockers puts a lot more oil up there.
Here's a datalog from a pull I made the other night:

a pretty sustained ~.7G from a top gear highway roll on at ~50 mph isn't too shabby, for 8 psi.
Been a while, got the oil leak mostly fixed. The pan doesn't leak anymore, but now that I have that fixed I can see that the valvecovers do. I'm guessing that the spring oiling mod that I did to the rockers puts a lot more oil up there.
Here's a datalog from a pull I made the other night:

a pretty sustained ~.7G from a top gear highway roll on at ~50 mph isn't too shabby, for 8 psi.
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 446
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From: Saratoga Area, New York
Car: 1990 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: WC T-5 out of an 88 T/A
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.42 & Torsen Posi
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Awesome car. I love that you're DDing it. Whens the highway video coming out?
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Car: 1987 IROC-Z and 1988 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 V8 and 5.0 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4 Automatic Transmission
Axle/Gears: 3.27 Posi
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
I really wanna know what kind of power its putting down, or atleast a quarter mile run! Have you raced that scooby yet? lol
Thread Starter
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Not the highway vid you probably wanted, but it's something for now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NdhH...e_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NdhH...e_gdata_player
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,776
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From: Spokane WA
Car: 92 Lingenfelter Z28 articwhite
Engine: Aluminum 615BBC
Transmission: Th400wbrake/curri entps9" locker
Axle/Gears: 4.11/4.30/4.56
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
sounds good. but im going to go out on a limb..and say.
we would like to see you put your foot into it for just a sec or two..
loved getting onto the freeway on ramp. for a sort trip to the track!
we would like to see you put your foot into it for just a sec or two..

loved getting onto the freeway on ramp. for a sort trip to the track!
Last edited by articwhiteZ; Apr 28, 2012 at 12:53 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 510
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
A little better....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJ8wftIG7Wk
I'll get it dynoed and then post up some track vids.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJ8wftIG7Wk
I'll get it dynoed and then post up some track vids.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Henrietta NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am L69
Engine: Sniper EFI Powered 355
Transmission: WC T5 w/ Steel Support Plate
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Sounds great I love this build
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 510
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Car stays pretty cool when moving, but stopped it heats up.
I had a couple 11" spal pushers left over from the outlaw car, I figured I'd try them out.
I'll let you guys know if they help, but I need an alternator upgrade first.
I had a couple 11" spal pushers left over from the outlaw car, I figured I'd try them out.
I'll let you guys know if they help, but I need an alternator upgrade first.
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Posts: 510
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Transbrake time!
Pretty obvious the alternator needs more amperage.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWe-H...e_gdata_player
Pretty obvious the alternator needs more amperage.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWe-H...e_gdata_player
Thread Starter
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Posts: 510
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From: Murphy, TX
Car: 1990 formula
Engine: 433 sbf + turbos
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: fab9, 3.50
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
for anyone interested, a supertrapp is NOT a good turbo muffler. (duh, right?)
My fabbed muffler to keep the neighbors happy: Supertrapp and a dirt track cone

The car goes pig rich and misfires as the boost comes on with the supertrapp, it's like a 2 step at 3200 rpm.

Take the supertrapp off, and you get a real nice transition into boost, a/f around 11.4:1.
My fabbed muffler to keep the neighbors happy: Supertrapp and a dirt track cone

The car goes pig rich and misfires as the boost comes on with the supertrapp, it's like a 2 step at 3200 rpm.

Take the supertrapp off, and you get a real nice transition into boost, a/f around 11.4:1.
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,896
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
yeah I didnt think those mufflers would work well. Backpressure probably spiked.
Cant wait to see what numbers it makes on 8psi.... my setup is almost done and should be seeing boost in another month or so. I dont expect to be near your numbers but it should be a healthy setup on the gate spring alone, also 8psi
Cant wait to see what numbers it makes on 8psi.... my setup is almost done and should be seeing boost in another month or so. I dont expect to be near your numbers but it should be a healthy setup on the gate spring alone, also 8psi
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From: Cecil County Raceway, MD
Car: 1984 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: RHS/LSx 427
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Fab9 3.00 gears
Re: 2k hp capable street car build
Wicked setup! You've given me so many ideas 
I'm getting ready to start building something at a similar power capability, but its going to be LSx based (I know I know
)
I'm currently spec'ing out my front suspension and was curious as to what spring rate you went with in the front coilovers.

I'm getting ready to start building something at a similar power capability, but its going to be LSx based (I know I know
)I'm currently spec'ing out my front suspension and was curious as to what spring rate you went with in the front coilovers.





