http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog...embly-785.html

$39.99 for everything isn't too bad.

That's where I got all my bends, they're aluminized mild steel. This is the first turbo kit that I've fabbed, and I didn't want to have a huge investment in material if I screwed it up!

 

that said, the vband, wastegate flanges and threaded bosses for the backpressure measurement ports are all 304SS. I used 309L rod to weld those to the mild steel.

Here's a pic of the wastegate mounted, backpressure port installed, and shot with some hi temp 'ceramic' paint:

You can see the backpressure port just above the T04 flange, with a steel fitting screwed into it.

 

The amount of stuff crammed under a stock hood is amazing.

 

304 stainless? sweet! thank god you'll really never need to use inconel on automotive applications, I've had to spec out some of inconel vbands for large turbo diesel engines and the prices are not pretty hahaha. Awesome build btw, subscribed!

 

Got the other gate mounted.




Then took the gates apart to make sure I had the same springs in both... I wanted to use the blue/white spring to start with , it's 8 psi.

Turns out, I have one center spring, one blue/white spring, and one green/red spring for two gates! lol.

Guess I'll have to order one blue/white spring.

 

Bought a lokar generic 36" cable and mounted it.

It went into the plastic cable retainer in the pedal side very nicely, the hard part was to get it to adapt to the ford throttle body.

I fabricated a few brackets and what you see here is what I made:



I also fabricated a bracket to mount some throttle return springs. I've had the throttle stick wide open before and I'm not interested in doing that again!




Firewall side of cable


Started welding bungs in the intake elbow for IAT, MAP, vacuum, etc.

 

Making some progress.

 

I now own a large number of -12 an fittings.

 

Awesome I cannot wait to see it run

 

Looking good.

 

Really glad it was slow at work today. I just went through all 8 pages with minor interuptions. I love seeing builds like this. Outside the box. It's great your in Texas too. Hopefully I'll get a chance to see this car in person. Keep up the great work.

 

Thanks guys!

Got a little more done. Took the fenders and downpipes off, cut the downpipes to length and put them all back on. Took the exhaust trim rings off and cleaned up the blue tape behind them and reinstalled.





Ran the fast harness through the old antenna hole as it gave a little more clearance to the downpipe than the stock harness location. I cut the stock harness wires and left the connector there to seal the cabin. I ran the stock antenna through the fast bushing.



Mounted the oil filter and ran all the rest of the pressurized oil lines with the exception of the second turbo feed.

 

Got a little more done.

Installed an SLP line loc kit.



I fabricated a mount for my weldon 2345 fuel pump. It uses a -12 from the sump, to a weldon pre filter, to a -10 outlet going to an aeromotive postfilter.






I next fabricated a link to prevent the engine from moving forward and backward, aka motorplate sway. I used one of the motormount bolts to attach it.






The last thing I did was to mount the transmission cooler, and fab lines. I didn't really have much room, up front was not going to happen, so I mounted it in the hump in the passenger side floorboard. There is a fan above it, so it should get some airflow. If it doesn't work well enough I'll find somewhere else to move it.

 

This throttle pedal/cable setup I have has a different amount of travel than my mustang did, aka a different pivot point on the pedal. SO, I had to make sure I didn't stress the throttle body. There is a positive stop on the throttle body, but as anyone who has been active on YB for a while has seen, accufab had some failures based on people not observing the positive stops for their throttle bodies and over stressing them with too much travel... so I fabricated a positive stop with a piece of 1/8" steel, a couple 3/4" nuts and a 3/4" bolt.

 

good to see your still making progress on your "street" car

 

i really think you should charge tickets for such a amazing unique build !!

good luck and i bet that birds gonna be loud!

 

Still just awesome, please tell me you have a way to take video of it after you are done.

 

I think that Andrew91GT should be commended. I have been following this caar for quite some time. I am impressed on the level of engineering and quality of parts. I went the F2 route but been around turbos to know the difference. This car will be VERY streetable and VERY fast. Way beyond most TPI and 700r4 capacity or appreciation. Forget the haters.
Keep posting!!

 

pshh I'm NOT a hater, it's a sick build I was just poking a little fun at the fender exit exhaust, dry sump, ect race car stuff. I'm well aware of how wild a street car can be, I do live in houston

now !

 

Thanks guys!

Got a little more done.

Picked up the Canton coolant tank, decide to mod it a bit so I could see the coolant level instead of guessing.







Had to change the overflow/vent tank fitting from a -10 to a -12.





Mounted the weldon 14000 dial a flow box inside where the rear locking compartment is in the trunk. You'll never see it!

 

simply put

i love this build

truly inspirational!

keep up the good work!! a video would be greaT!!!!

 

Thanks!

Just trying to get this done, T minus 6 or 7 weeks until kid #2 is due... I'm running out of time!

Mounted the racepak:



Installed a couple rubber type passthrough panels of sorts that I got from summit. This one is on the upper trans tunnel on the passenger side, I'll send the racepak cable up to the engine compartment, transbrake wire, and power to the trans cooler through here.




This one is below the rear passenger seat. It gets the racepak to driveshaft speed sensor.




I'm going to send the ignition to coil wires through the driver's side trans tunnel. I found out the hard way on my mustang to KEEP THOSE WIRES away from anything else you care about, they see a LOT of voltage and BIG voltage transients and can couple lots of noise into wires that you care about.

 

Getting ready to fab in the racepak dash.



I want to keep the stock gas level/voltage gauge, and I'll need to provide for a speedometer as well, but my glide doesn't have a VSS...... Not exactly sure what to do but it's almost time to figure it out!

 

Does it have provisions for cable driven speedometers?

 

It sure doesn't. I'll have to do a driveshaft collar or a proximity sensor on the front wheel lugs or something. I'm not sure yet.

 

More info on these passthroughs?

 

I'm pretty sure this is the part I used: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SIT-GS50238-BL/

 

First step in mounting the dash:

I cut out the factory turn signals and high beam indicator, and then fabricated a .025" aluminum panel that the UDX is mounted in. I painted the panel semigloss black (not shown) and still have to fit the rest of the dash back around it to look decent.

In order to get the dash to fit (kind of tall) I DID have to space the rack down about 0.5".



Mounted the MSD 7 on the driver's wheeltub, it will be behind the factory plastics and hidden from view.

 

what kind of fan did you use for the transmission oil cooler? and is it on some sort of temperature switch or always on? im curious cuz i plan on adding a fan to my t-cooler as well and remove it from the front of the radiator. i beleive i have the same cooler.

 

This is what I have:

http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70297/...oductId=751118

It has a 9.5" fan and thermostatic control switch on it.

I asked around at work about mounting coolers like this and one guy said this:

he knew a gentleman who mounted his radiator kind of like this, and it worked REALLY well at low speeds... at higher speeds something about the aerodynamics under the vehicle prevented significant airflow from going through it, and he would overheat.

I'm going to keep an eye on mine, but I might have to build a scoop of some sort for it.

 

Is your ignition mounted in the rear then, next to the small factory "rear box" ??

 

If you are in the car, sitting where the driver's seat would be, and looking towards the rear bumper, it is mounted on the front face of the driver's wheeltub right next to where the driver's side rear seat cushion is.


I mounted my weldon dial-a-flow box on the back side of the driver's wheel tub, right inside the factory rear box. I think this is the location you were referring to.

 

I understand the location. Thank you. Great job on this car!

 

Never thought I'd have any Insight into your build because your knowledge is so much great than mine but I can offer this. I used the lokar cable myself, and the plastic thing does fit perfect. But, if I pushed my pedal too hard the little ball would putt through the plastic thing. I happened to have a perfect tiny washer that fit perfectly and now it hasn't pulled through. Just something to maybe think about. Wouldn't want to get stuck somewhere.

 

Thanks for the info, that's good to know!

I was a little worried about it, and I'm hoping that my pedal stop will keep me from putting too much force on it, but we will see... I'm going to start going through my bolt bin and looking for washers!

 

Finished mounting the racepak dash, at least as much as I'm going to do for now.

Here are a couple pics showing the black and clear plastic layers over it




Trying to decide how to cut the outer grey plastic portion of the dash.



Shift light on the right, warning light on the left. It would look a lot better with a custom fiberglassed outer dash panel, but that is beyond my ability and I have other things to spend money on at the present.


Crankcase pressure sensor installed. I wish I had an extra 1/8" NPT bung to weld on the valve cover but I didn't, so in the filler cap it goes.

 

Haha no problem. It's nice insurance to use a washer.

 

Got a little distracted, started fabbing a parachute mount.









I would have made a tubular bumper replacement, but I wanted to use the stock bumper support and wasn't too concerned with the weight.

 

Here is the completed receiver for the chute:









Cutoff switch and passthroughs:

 

Mounted the connection to the frame from the negative terminal cable. I wanted it to go to the frame but not be visible with the interior in.... I ended up having to cut this piece and weld it back in:

 

Chute mount looks clean. Debating on how i want to do mine when I get to that power level...which I believe I should be at by now.

 

amazing build,,,going to be nasty...great job

 

Hey quick question are you worried about oil temps? Do u have an engine oil cooler?

 

I have one, but haven't installed it. I'm going to wait. It's a liquid to liquid cooler that I used for the transmission on my outlaw build... the other liquid was icewater.

Got the dash in. I'm pretty pleased with it! I went with a speedhut 200 mph GPS speedometer.

 

dash looks great....love the 2 style guages

 

The first time you pop the chute,you're going to be surprised how fast it stops the car.They hit hard so make sure your belted in good.Want to be aware of the weather conditions(cross winds etc),it will want to pull the car in the direction the wind is blowing in.

 

I welded a nut to the bottom of the bumper, then welded A washer to a bolt to guide the switch rod. The switch rod got gussets and a fresh coat of paint before it was installed.



Switch off




Switch on




Bumper cut for parachute mount

 

Starting the fire system install... Safecraft 10 pound halon system. One nozzle in the cabin, two in the engine bay at intake manifold height pointed at the engine.

 

Filled up the transmission, ran the valves on one side of the engine.

 

Getting some corn



Trimmed the midplate, you can see it's squared off at the bottom... fabricated another piece of 3/8" aluminum to bolt to it to protect the flexplate, gained me 1.5" of ground clearance though.



Mounted fire system actuation handle