as you can see in the first photo the spohn torque arm mount fits pretty tight up in the tunnel. plans are to buy a u channel like the original and use one side for the right leg of the mount and the other side to be where the actual torque arm bolts to. and cutting off the left side of the u channel making it basically a 90 degree angle iron. BUT! another brace shall be welded from the rear of the transmission crossmember to the piece holding the torque arm mount to add support. the right side of the u channel gets welded to the trans crossmember and the flat part of the u channel gets welded to the flat part of the crossmember. more than likely im going to weld a complete plate on the side where im cutting the leg off the u channel to make it a solid connection between the crossmember and the u channel. its hard to explain exactly whats its going to look like but im confident it should hold AND give awesome exhaust clearance.

 

good idea, but i sure dont like thats peice of flat bar you got fabed up for that trans, thats thing will bend under load, maybe you should add stiffeners to it, just a thought! great ideas though.

 

i bought it from hawks third gen. its made from 1/4 flat stock

 

I also vote down the trans crossmember. I would go with some 1x4 square tubing.

 

That trans crossmember is fine, the stock one is way more flimsy

 

I assure you guys it wont be a bit flimsy when im done.

 

I have a million different ideas myself but it would be very easy to 'over engineer' this crossmember when all that holds it in is 4 bolts on a flimsy floor.

 

i should have some pics to show tomorrow of the finished product. IF the guy comes over and wires up a plug for the welder.

 

I like the way it looks ( crossmember). Add a few gussets here and there. By the way what did you use to connect it to the frame, flat plate ? Or angle iron?

 

Dude...he just said he bought the crossmember from Hawks...

 

LOL yes he did where did I question that? I asked what did he use to connect it to frame. Or should I ask what is the connection point to the frame made of?

 

And by stating that I mean its a 'BOLT ON' crossmember that goes in the stock location.

 

That has nothing to do with the question. I wanted to know if it is flat plate or angle that is used to connect it to the frame. Or to satisfy white, the bolts connecting the crossmember to the subframe are going threw what type, shape, metal?

 

i believe it is angle iron shaped to the form you see... but im not 100%

 

I'm really excited to see how this turns out, and will be even more excited if you will make me one this spring/summer after I start my 8.8 swap

 

yeah i got started late (freaking electrician didnt get here till 3!!!!!) but i have my main supporting peice cut and ready to be welded. i just cut the spohn greasable joint off the original mount and should have it all together tomorrow or saturday. Then redo my exhaust....yippee

 

I'm sorry your question had room for interpretation. Be a little more specific next time because he didn't make it as stated in your original post.

Sorry about that Nasty I really wanna see this thing.

 

ok teaser pics. it doesnt look like much but it rides the drives side crossmember leg great! the grinded hole in the front is there the transmission mount bolt where it bolts to the transmission sets.

 

Thanks 1nasty, I thought it looked like angle but not sure. I see we have another Steve who dissects everyones comments instead of leaving it to the OP.

 

finished the mount today. im very happy with it! semi gloss black finish.

 

I wasn't sure which way you were going with it but it looks great! Very simple and effective. How much did you have to adjust the torque arm to position it?

 

the greasable joint legs are basically straight up. and there are still alot of threads in the torque arm. and there is alot of room for my exhaust now, comparing it to my old exhaust it looks like i have about 2 inches of ground clearance over my old setup.

 

That turned out nice, let us know how it works.

 

STICKY!!!

 

mount is holding up and works great.

 

Next time you build one take .500 steel rod and cut a piece the width of the greasable joint for the front and back on the joint. Then you won't need to run that strap up the joint. You just place those in the wedge for and aft the joint.. It's more eye appealing and will prevent the rocking if your welds ever cracked plus it's more removeable if you even need to change things up.

 

thanks for the suggestions.... mounts is still holding up but i havent REALLY but any stress on it yet. 275 555r's wont hook worth crap. 315's are in the storage building