Well I've been here for awhile just didn't post after my original 87 trans am 350 tpi car was t-boned and destroyed ;( anyways. I've got my 85 Iroc that I'm building for this rod run car show in April. It's a pretty big deal show around TN. So I read the threads about doing it many many times. But never seen it done fully. So I'm going to do it. Not attempt it. DO IT! The actual targa piece won't be perfect till more this summer. But it'll be done by this show. I'm buying weld in subframe connectors to support it. I've decided that I can remove the t bar by drill all the spot welds and doing some cutting welding etc to get it right. My headliner is out. And me and my dad have looked it over and know its gotta be done. I'll try to do pictures as I go, step by step. As also to have for reference. So any possible helpful links. Pictures. Sites. Etc that you guys can find. Please post them up. And also please don't be mad for me cutting up an original 85 Iroc car. I'm going to try and make it a reversible option just in case it doesn't work our or I decide I don't like it.

 

Check this at these times. 10.38 - 11.20. 13.53-14.10. 14.50-15.03. 15.28-15.43. 16.28-17.35. 33.20-33.30. 35.14- 36. This car is amazing. I do not like the targa bar but otherwise awesome!!

 

wow...I haven't watch Simon and Simon in 30 years and I was 11 years old. Good find for a targa top thirdgen.

 

Took a lot of episode searching lol. There's some in season 2 episode 4 also. But this one has some good scenes. I can't wait to have mine done. Each day I wanna just cut that bar out lol. I'm just waiting on tax money to order my paint and stuff including my subframe connectors before I do anything.

 

I suggest getting it as stiff as possible. One set of SFC's is good, but two sets of SFC's wouldn't be a bad idea, an outer set and an inner set, and of course a strut tower brace and a wonder bar up front would help too. If it doesn't have the door strikers those would be a good addition as well, and IIRC there's a brace that can be installed in the B-pillar that would be a good idea too in the tech section on this site. Other than that, you can probably find a car with a decent hardtop at a junkyard and cut it off to make a template for the removable panel, you'll just have to figure out how to fit it, smooth it, reinforce it, seal it, and secure it in place and then upholster and paint it. You could probably disassemble some junk cracked or scratched up t-tops for the locking mechanisms to get it to secure in the factory t-top locking locations.

Good luck, take lots of pictures and keep us updated.

 

The sfc Im getting go over the frames. So I see no way of getting 2. I got a lot to get done before I tackle this. I'll probably start it about the beginning of April. I'll have plenty of pictures on what I'm doing. I'm not sure how I'm gonna go Bout the top yet. I'll do something simple for now. Then I'll be heat forming a solid piece of lexan or plexiglas to have a whole clear top. I'll decide later on. If my car doesn't get close to done before the second week of April. I'll be waiting till after the show to try it. I don't see the cutting and stuff being more than a day or 2. It's just figuring out how to use two ttops and the center bar to seal it for right now. Good idea about the hardtop metal. I might do that if I can't get my idea to work first. All I'll need is the sheet metal and some bracing. Then my two ttop latches on both sides. And a seal on the front and back lol. Sounds simple enough being 20 years old I expect this to be a turning point for mine and my dads custom business.

 

Sounds like a good plan!
Subframe connectors either come as outers or inners and can be run together. Spohn's, BMR's, and UMI's are outers and the MAC's and Alstons are inners. There are several members who have gotten both to work... on a hard top car it's questionable whether or not the weight (+~20lbs) would be worth it but without the center support up top you'll want all the support you can get.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...onnectors.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...-subframe.html

 

Hmm, I'm getting competition engineering ones.

I've decided on global west subframe connectors now. They may be better ones. But that's a little more than I want to spend. For 189 I can live with these. If I ever need to later on, I can custom fab up some extra bracing under the car.

 

Well probably gonna start chopping tomorrow. I got the itch. I'll post pictures as I go.

 

I have my SFC in...I too want to do a Targa top...What is your plan for weather stripping? ?? My plan is to use as much as I can from a vert...

My pics are on my profile. .....

 

I'm going to attach them together using extra stripping. I plan on using my rc hobbie tire glue which basically melts the rubber together. So it will look like one solid strip. On the bottom and hidden areas. I'll be using liquid tape also to make sure it's sealed all the Way through. I'll have pics when I start. I'm awaiting sfcs right now. So possibly march 20 something I should be starting on it. I'm not afraid to go cutting like most people. If it sags, well I'll fix it later. Most of the time the top won't be in. I also have plans of making the center tbar support a bolt in. So if I ever do hard running of the car. I can bolt the strength back in.

 

It seems to me like if I do it right. And it turns out good. I'll be able to do it to others cars as well.

 

I dont want the bar...I like the idea about heating the lexan...and I look forward to your post...I have a small garage and I'm looking at buying a home with a big garage. ..in some pics you can see how small it is... the yellow car and truck are the neighbors... I live in a twin plex and we have to share a 2 car garage... So I get half of a 2 car garage...The body shop that shaved my car closed....so I dont have a date to get this done..but it will..

 

I don't want it either but since I don't have inner and outer sfcs or a cage. It'll be good to be able to bolt it in for say auto x or the drag strip.

 

I plan on putting in a strut tower brace...and I read a thread a while ago...this is going to sound strange...but he put what looked like a sway bar in, the inside of his car...he put it in side right behind the back seat...he said you have to slam the back seat up to get it to latch...but according to him it fit right in...he used the same bolts that hold the back seat in....if I ever get a extra sway bar ...I might try to see if it fits ...but idk

 

Most likely a rear strut tower brace. They bolt to the shock mounts and go inside.

 

I might look in to one of them as well as a strut tower brace...but back to weather stripping, I'm buying some stuff off a vert ...I know the weather stripping will work for the top of the wind shield. ..but I'll see if it fits on the other side...if not ...if your idea of gluing it works ...I'll just buy the T-top weather stripping, cut it just before it meets the T-bar...and glue in a peace..to meet up to the other side...then the fun part...making a top...

 

Ya. I'll have helpful pictures of the so called "hard" things. Id rather see more targa thirds.

 

Agreed. ..I was going to start one to ask for ideas about doing it..and I mentioned this in another thread..but most of the time they get away from how to...too...don't do it you will bend your car in half..your ruining your car...and it turns in to a argument. ...and one that a guy started ..he was in school..working on his car...and then nothing..he vanished. ...

 

I have been thinking about this for quite a while. I too want to use lexan for the top and I know that you could heat it to shape it, but what are you using for a mold?

 

Just in case you havent already done it...i would not cut that bar out until you have your subframe connectors in. You want it as braced as possible before you cut out the center support or you risk having the body getting tweaked. Also im sure you already know this but have the cars suspension loaded when you install the connectors...as in a drive on lift.

 

For a mold to shape the lexan...cut a top from a hard top...then measure from side to side and front to back...cut a piece of Lexan bigger then the measurement's....mark the center of top and mark the center of lexan....lay lexan on top of the top...lining of the center marks....get a friend to hold it....then heat from under the top of the car's top...start at the center and working out...its all trial and error...iy should start to lay over the top of the car's top....then trim it to fit....( cut to small and repeat till it fits ) ..that was my plan I don't know if it's right or wrong. ..and I have not gotten that far....

 

Exactly as big keg said. I'll be using a hard top for the mold. Ill strap the lexan down tight so it helps pull it to the roof. And get tighter as it starts to bend. I'll use a handheld torch to slowly heat the hardtop metal to bend the lexan. One it's curved tight. I'll keep the straps tight for probably overnight to be safe. Then I'll do my trim fitting with the side brackets. And yes I'm having exhaust done on the car so I'll have my connectors done on his drive on lift. I know how to weld as well. So I'll be doing one side while he does the other. It's all a big project really. But i hope I get it done. It'll be so cool crushing around with a targa Iroc.

 

Sounds like a good plan, the problem for me is there is almost no chance of finding a hardtop to use for a mold here in australia

 

You could use ttops, without the edging and the latch system.

 

Or contact " desert valley auto " they have a Tv show ...and in one episode they talked about this body shop in Australia that buys parts from them...they fill a whole shipping container then send it on its way...they might be able to get you a top...and tell them you want as much as the A piller and B piller that you can get...

 

I'll be interested in seeing how this turns out. Sure you wouldn't just rather have a 'vert?

 

Torch= bad idea. Use a heat gun to heat the Lexan so that is can't overheat/burn/bubble/crack in one spot more than in others. And Lexan gets real brittle after heating. Best way would be slow heating in an oven (i know. BIG oven but.....) just like we had the signs made for large outdoor molded signs. They were actually vacuumed formed over molds, but same concept. Slow even heating.

Despite knowing the "danger" of trying localized heating I tried it anyways. Only a $4 mistake so I tried unsuccessfully. The heated section snapped with the slightest pressure after cooling.

 

Thin lexan will. My grandad made me a custom lexan skateboard when I was real young and it was no where near brittle. As for torch I wasn't going to stay in one spot. It's just the only heat source I would have. I thought about a paint booth turned up high heat but I'm not sure if it would be enough. And richboll yes I'd love to have a vert. But chances are unlikely to get or find one.

 

Your right a paint booth will not get hot enough, To form lexan with heat you need around 320 deg, f . for the thickness of the lexan you will be needing for this project
I think you have a good idea here and as a fabricator I am interested in seeing how you execute this and how it turn out. I my self would be using fiberglass or carbon fiber.

 

I thought about fiberglass. But I want to be able to see out of it like a sunroof. That's what I love about t tops! The targa just adds to it.

 

Well if you don't mind some ideas from someone I have a few for your project,
First,I am supposing you have T-Tops, Well if it was me doing this I would separate the glass from the ends, Set them in there spot and mark where they sit, then remove the center t bar that holds the tops in place, not the center support, Set the glass back down where the would normally be and use a filler to fill the gap. Then lay your lexan on top, I suggest getting a heat gun, and slowly heat the lexan from the center out until it forms to the shape of the roof, Then install your ends from the t-tops on that.
There seams to be some good ideas for the seals, Instead of cutting the center t bar out, drill out the welds to it,
Are you going to use a clear or colored tinted lexan ? As your not supposed to use tinting film on it,
Whats your plans for the head liner ?

 

Your idea was already thought about and probably might be used. Yes I'll be drilling the tbar out. Um I'll be using tinted lexan. If it's clear I'll find a way to tint it the right way. As for the headliner. Mine was trashed anyway. So I'll take the font and rear section and do some filling and forming, maybe some Fiberglass then just recarpet it. It will look factory when I do it. I've actually come up with the idea now to use my ttops and just have an H channel attached to one. Then latch it in place, and slide the other into it and latch it. Almost like the factory. It's easier to store the two tops rather than oe big piece. After the show I'll look into my lexan top. But for now. Using the ttops will be easiest. I've got some U channels that I could attach together to make an H channel. I'm unsure. It's all random ideas till it comes down to actually having to tbar out and being able to see how much gap is between my tops. I have a set of lexan tops from a 91 firebird we have but they don't want to latch into my car at all.

 

One of my ideas was to take the T-bar out..and use tool box type of latch to hold it in place...some of my old mine truckn mags have a kit you could buy to make a S-10 in to a hard top vert..and that's what is used to hold the hard top on....

man I wish I had a garge big enough to-do work on my car...

Also ...why would you need to put SFC's on,while the car is on a drive on type of lift ???
The shop that put mine on closed and I cant remember if they had a drive on...

 

The thought behind having the SFC while on a drive on lift is to have the suspension loaded and the body would not bow like some cars do when you have it on jack stands with the wheels off the ground.

 

you can use aerocatch 2s to hold down the top on the car. for reinforcement if you are willing to dig up a set of convertible reinforcements for a vert then weld them in in original places

 

Imidden...you said something about this in another thread. ..that vert's having some kind of reinforcement that other cars didn't get...as fare as I know, and I could be wrong. ..in 87 the first verts where all T-top cars sent out and had the tops cut off...if you know of some kind of special reinforcement that the verts got, please post a pic,showing this....

 

I have seen a couple of verts. The ones I have seen had a brace attached to the outside of the rocker panel below the ground effect mount. It ran the length of the panel. With the ground effects on you would have to look for it to see it. My guess is this is the extra bracing. Sorry no pics.

I would think regular well designed SFCs would do a better job than the factory work around.

 

For the roof. Would it be possible to use lexan tops and mount a "hinge" in the middle. Some minor fab would be required, the hinge will need to be in a straight plane so I am thinking it could be in a straight plane from side to side inside the car with mounts up to the tops (mounts longer in the middle and short on the ends).

You could use the factory latches on the ends and fab a latch system for the middle.

Lexan can be drilled etc. to secure the fabbed hinge. Some sort of weatherstripping would be required in the gap between the panels (which is really really small). The weather strip could be made to look like the factory t-bar from the outside.

Some small amount of centre trim would be required to hide the hinge on the inside. Would still be much smaller than the factory centre bar. Not a pure unobstructed view from the inside when in place but much better than stock.

If done right the panel might even fit in the stock t-top bags (or a modified bag since it will be thicker). This would allow you to keep the top with you while not having it piled in the rear seats etc.

 

what about cutting a section out of a hardtop car? Install latches and make it more rigid?

 

Bond the Lexan t-tops to the stock center bar & make it removable. When it is in it looks like "stock t-tops & out it is a Targa!

 

Sorry for no updates. The car got put on hold and didn't make it by the show. But yes it's still in progress. Cars prepped for paint. So hopefully I'll be able to do the targa idea before the street machine nats in Illinois in June. I've already got my idea planned and figured out how to do it. Got a roll hoop to put it also. Just a 4 point system. Possibly door bars. Later on. But I also got a set of 17" torque thrusts so I'm set on wheels now.

 

So after awhile on this I have switched cars and am now onto a new project. An 82 z28. I've already removed the center weatherstrip bar. I have my sfc waiting to be installed. I've finally decided to go through with this build. Still not positive on the top design. But I might go ahead and do a full fiberglass sheet.