I see people on here using the Wolfe kit, and I see that Ed Quay sells some wubs for our cars. Not sure if they are full tubs or mini. I am looking to run a 335 that is tucked someday. I currently run 315s that are not so tucked. What mini tubs should I look into?

Thanks for any advice. I am starting my search all over TGO for a clean install of minitubs and it is not 100% clear how the install will go.

(My car is all taken appart so that is not the part that makes me nervous, just knowing where to cut). I have read people say, if they don't fit, cut a bit more, but what does that mean exactly???

Thanks again.

 

If you are handy with sheetmetal, just make your own. The wolfe kit is way overkill for clearance at the top of the tire unless you are running a big drag tire. I run a 335/30/18 and fabbed my own tubs. I was able to leave the factory interior plastics untouched.

 

Maybe if you can take some detailed pics I can see how "handy" I need to be. I am OK with metal, but I don't have any tools to curve it.

 

You're at the point where you just gotta dive in and start cutting.

I bought the Wolfe kit and am about half way through the install. I moved them in about 1/2" more than most guys do (right at the outside edge of the shock mount hole), and the tubs still fit pretty well. I will end up extending the tubs a little bit to meet the outer wheelhouse.

Greezemonkey's thread is about the only one that still has pictures linked... The other thread where daverr posted pics of his helped me a lot too.

 

As a ballpark guess, I cut just outside the pinch weld in the wheel tub, and then when I had a nice straight reference line where the pinch weld is, measure back to the outside of the shock bushing, and keep that distance all the way front to back (Of course, i went to the shock mount hole, not the bushing).

 

Thanks for the heads up. So you think the Wolfe kit is worth the money?

 

Yeah its not priced to bad and saves about 8 hours of work making templates and fitting. They fit really close and all that's left is some simple patch panels to make to tie everything back together at the backs of the wheel wells

 

Ok, from what I have read, and what you are saying, I think I will place an order.

 

I have the wolfe kit in mine. Only worth it if you do their spring kit and run offset rod end lca from whoever

 

Really? That's the first I have herd of needing to run offset arms. I mean I guess I can, just never have not seen it before. If you are, can you post a picture? I have not seen anyone sell arms like that. I have only read of spohn making one pair custom for someone.

 

They mean offset arms with the offset rod end spacers. They move the whole arm in board a little. I had spoon make some totally different notched offset arms because I went with a very deep tub to keep my 335 tires completely tucked under the car like stock. If you keep the outside of the tire flush with the outside of the fender lip then you do need as extreme of a control arm.

 

You will at the very least need offset bushing arms. For me, those would not buy enough room so I fabricated new arms with a big offset in them. The other option would be to re-locate the pick-up points in board.

 

First off, thanks so much for posting help on this topic. I feel like a lot of people on this site don't really look to doing mods like this.

Second, I am about 90% sure I know exactly what you guys are talking about, but can you post a pic or two? I think I understand what you mean about offset bushing, but just want to be clear. I am currently running adj. Spohn units that I am sure I can sell, just want to know if I have to.

I am running a 11" rim right now, so I am only running a 315. I am minitubing so that someday in the future I can buy the wheels I really want and run 335s on a 12" rim.

With the 315 do you think I will be OK with the control arms I have now? I know it depends on my backspace. They are ZR1 replica wheels. The ones with the shallow face. Not sure if that is clear.

Either way, pics would probably explain it all.

Thanks again.

 

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=107

Those would probably do it for ya.

Get the section width on the tires you want to run and do the math to find the distance between the insides of your tires.

 

Very cool, did not know these existed. Thanks

 

here's some messy pictures while I was doing the cutting and installation in the garage last winter.

15x10 6.5" bs 295/55 drag radial which is a 28x12.50 slick size.




this is with the rear end raised about 2" from max droop


had to raise the nose 3.5" to even get it on the trailer and to open the drivers door

 

What lca are those?

 

Chro moly double rod ended with offset bushings by a local chassis shop that does pro mods.

 

Nice.

 

Get started yet?

 

you can also get the double rod end LCA. from founders with the offset bushings. just ask for the bushing ya want when ya order. under $120

http://www.foundersperformance.com/p...B47%7DRod.html

the above LCA's with offset bushings installed w/a 13.5 sec width tire tube di is 1.25" tires all all the way under finders

 

Wow, that is a great price! Thanks. I will be ordering parts next weekend. Still have to pull the motor and do a final parts list before I start.

- mini tubs
- founders lca
- (rear spring and shock, can't decide)
then I will be placing the order.

 

I would hold off on those LCA's until you have your wheels/tire combo for fitting. I am just barely tucking a 335/30/18 Toyo R888 tire (14" shoulder to shoulder) and those offset bushing arms would not fit. I think that is the same tire size you were thinking of using as well. My wheels are 18x12. I'll have to look up the backspacing I used but I think it was in the 8.5" range.

 

406TPI - You are using a set of offset arms right? Also where did you get your wheels from? I am just going to be running 315s for right now on an 11" rim. Once these tires go bald, I will think of getting new rims and tires. During this build I want to make sure I have all the parts in play for the future when I do change up to 335s though. So if you are running LCA that are not those, then I don't want them either.

Thanks for the heads up. Any chance I could just get a picture of your rear end setup?

 

You can also run them further inboard than the offset location to gain another 1/2" if needed at least

 

How? Apart from fully custom welded brackets on the car and rear end?

 

There's still a gap between rod end and brackets. So offset them more