But it had to be fabricated by a friend. Aftermarket members either hung down too low or were for single exhaust. This is such a simple design Clears my 3"duals perfectly, he used chromemoly tubing,2"angle, and some c-channel. Super rigid, no complicated bends.
He also redone my edelbrock torque arm by eliminating the rubber stock style mount and used a heim joint. And also made another seperate member just for the arm out of chrome moly also.














The ratchet isn't a permanent resident!

 

i hope you didn't just put a heim end on the torque arm and bolt that to the crossmember... the torque arm's whole job is to hold the pinion on the rear axle at a certain angle while planting the rear tires into the ground under power as the rear end moves up and down, with the lower control arms holding the rear end fore and aft in the car... it needs to move fore and aft a little bit to prevent binding as it fights against the much shorter lower control arms that are moving in a different arc.. look at the aftermarket torque arm mounts and you will usually see a shackle setup almost exactly like what you see on one end of leaf springs, but sometimes they have the end able to telescope in and out to prevent binding.

 

Thats exactly what I did. It's like one long ladder bar now. Its mostly a drag car now. Thanks for the comment, I didn't now that. The car hardly squats if any now with the antiroll bar. But I'll take what you said and observe any ill affects closely.

 

Do us all a favor and make your thread title accurate.....thanks.

 

it doesn't squat at all because the rear end is trying to move thru 2 different arcs: the one created by your 4 foot long ladder bar and the one created by your 18" long lower control arms.. it's all bound up, and the only give is the rubber bushings on the lower control arms..

 

I haven't ran it yet like this. It was the stock rubber transmission mounted arm till this weekend. It didn't squat before then either. The S&W antiroll bar I installed 5 yrs ago made it stiff. Although the results from this weekends changes have yet to be seen,good or bad.

If you look and MADMAN RACING's torque arm it is solid also.

 

The previous owner of my Camaro did the same thing. My torque arm is literally a big ladder bar. It's on my list to do to make a shackle setup for the front mount. it's totally bound up.

 

How can you tell it's bound up? Is there no travel in the rear suspension? Or is it something only felt at the track? I can push down and make the car squat just as much as before I changed it.

 

You can feel it right away when you drive through the pits. Even on old school ET Streets with like 11psi in them it's rough riding.

 

I just looked at the Madman arm and you're right. It sure as hell is solid mounted

 

you might be able to get away with it if you have stock worn out rubber bushings that have some give in them- but eventually something is going to give, and if you're lucky it won't be the mounts where the control arms bolt to the body giving up while you are at WFO at the top end of the track...

 

the original madman arm was like that, all it did is bound up the whole suspension and kept it from working at all... the new one looks like that but the end is in a sleeved tube that acts like a sliding link.

The only way to make what you're doing actually work is to either make the rear control arms longer or to add a sliding link somewhere

 

You're right. I remember now. I talked to Burkhart about mine and they told me about the sliding sleeve

 

Compressed and hanging. Doesn't look too bound up. We will see.

 

Maybe my LCA relocators are allowing the suspension travel that is shown in the pics. I have them on the lowest (most angle) position. This would put the geometry of the travel arc at it closest position to the front of the car at ride hieght. Not needing much motion at the front of the arm

 

it will move a little like that but its bound up, end of story and no point trying to argue or decide. It has to be corrected period. You will eventually break something like this.

 

draw it out on paper and use a compass to draw the different arcs of the 4 foot long torque arm compared to the 18" long lower control arms...

GM made the torque arm mount slide the way they did for a reason..

 

Fabbing up a short shackle now....

Now, how bout my trans crossmember? Lol