Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
11-25-2009, 02:34 PM
#51
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Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: Carb'd 350
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Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
Here is a link to the Tech Article
https://www.thirdgen.org/steeringcolumn
I found that using a 8-32 screw and a slide hammer works great for pulling the pivot pins.
https://www.thirdgen.org/steeringcolumn
I found that using a 8-32 screw and a slide hammer works great for pulling the pivot pins.
07-20-2011, 09:37 PM
#52
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Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
Your car will be a little easier if there is no VATS wiring and SIR coil/wiring/gas bag. If you have VATS, there are only two more wires that need to be handled. With SIR, you have an entire additional procedure to remove and reassemble the system. You really should have a service manual in hand for that procedure.
Start by centering the steering wheel, so that the wheel can be replaced in exactly the same position on the shaft easily. The steering shaft is both marked and keyed, but centering the wheel makes the job easier to "eyeball", and keeps the turn signal cancelling cam out of the way in later steps.
Next, remove the hazard flasher **** on the lower right side of the steering column. There should be a small (#0) Phillips screw holding the **** in place. Find the release clip or bolts for the horn sounder pad and remove it. As the pad is removed from the wheel, unplug the horn wire from the connector on the pad. Remove the horn sounder wire and the insulator that guides the wire through the steering wheel. The insulating sleeve needs to be pushed inward slightly, twisted ¼ turn anticlockwise, and removed from the wheel. There is a light spring in the sleeve, so make sure all the parts are removed together.
Remove the safety clip from the steering shaft, then remove the nut. You might have to have an assistant help hold the wheel while you turn the nut loose. Install the bolts from your steering wheel puller into the tapped holes in the wheel, and turn the puller screw to release the wheel from the steering shaft.
Depress the notched wheel locking plate and remove the locking ring located at the center of the plate. There is a special tool for holding the wheel locking plate while the snap ring is removed, and it will be worth the $15.00 you'll pay for it. It can be done without the tool, but it is an exercise in frustration unless you are an octopus. I've done it several times using the "Armstrong" method, now I have the tool and use the "Brainstrong" method instead.
When the wheel locking plate is removed, you can look at the left lower side of the turn signal switch and see a pan head Phillips screw that hold the turn signal lever in place. Remove this screw and plate, then move the lever out of the way. There are three more pan head screws that hold the turn signal/hazard lamp switch to the upper column. Remove those and lift the turn signal switch out of the way. You may need to feed some extra wire from under the column to allow the switch to clear the steering shaft and move out of the way completely.
Once the turn signal/hazard switch base is out of the way, you should see another pan head screw on the upper right side of the column. This screw holds the lock cylinder in place. Before you remove the lock cylinder, make sure you hold the plastic/metal foil contact assembly in place so you don't lose it down the column when the lock is removed. This switch assembly is what actuates the key warning buzzer/chime. If you have VATS, there should be an additional pair of wires to umplug and feed down along the column.
Remove the column tilt release lever by unscrewing it. Set it nearby since you will need to reinstall it after the upper bowl trim jacket is removed. Remove the turn signal / multifunction lever shaft by carefully pulling it out of the switch. Unplug the cruise control wire harness (if equipped). Remove the remaining upper bowl trim screws and lift the upper bowl off the column. Find the column tilt release lever and thread it back in hand tight for now.
Remove the upper steering shaft bearing nut and retainer clip. Remove the upper bearing set. Remove the actuator rod link from the rack/sector that operates with the lock cylinder. Disconnect the link from the clip in the lower column.
Remove the balance spring cap with a #2 or larger Phillips driver or larger square drive. This will allow the upper column fall to the lowest tilt position.
Remove the pivot pins from either side of the upper column using an 8-32 screw and nuts as a puller. Assemble the parts as shown, fully bottoming the screw by hand (to get the maximum thread bearing strength), then back it off a turn or two in case the bolt snaps later. Once the screw thrread is set, run the nut down with a wrench to jack the pivot pin out of the column die casting. It the screw snaps, there should be adequate material to back it out by hand (which is why you didn't bottom it out to begin with). Usually, the pin will pull easily once it starts moving and deforms the stakes that were retaining it.
Once the pins are removed, operate the column tilt release lever and remove the upper column half. Note the routing of the ignition switch linkage rod(s) when you remove the upper column half. Tilt the upper stub shaft and universal joint to allow the joint to be separated.
At this point, you should be viewing the top of the lower column half and four Torx cap screws. Remove these screws one at a time, clean the threads, and apply a light coating of LocTite 242 or an equivalent medium strength removable thread locker. Tighten the bolts by hand until all four are reinstalled. Torque these bolts to 180 in/lb.
Reassemble the upper column half in reverse order. Take time to clean and grease all the moving parts so you can have another ten years of reliable operation. Every moving part, including the turn signal switch and cancelling cam, should be cleaned and lubricated with white lithium grease.
When assembly is complete, torque the steering wheel nut to 35 ft/lb. There are already enough loose nuts behind steering wheels on our roadways....
There is a possibility that some of the pan head screws are Torx instead of Phillips. I believe this was more common on 1985 and later cars, but your's may have them as well.
There is also a very remote possibility that your car has an inflatable restraint, in which case you'll need to disconnect the battery and insulate all connections before you start. You should also have a service manual to detail the proper procedure for removing and re-centering the triggering coil and pickup for the SIR. You don't want to have that done incorrectly. Come to think of it, a manual is a good idea, anyway.
Start by centering the steering wheel, so that the wheel can be replaced in exactly the same position on the shaft easily. The steering shaft is both marked and keyed, but centering the wheel makes the job easier to "eyeball", and keeps the turn signal cancelling cam out of the way in later steps.
Next, remove the hazard flasher **** on the lower right side of the steering column. There should be a small (#0) Phillips screw holding the **** in place. Find the release clip or bolts for the horn sounder pad and remove it. As the pad is removed from the wheel, unplug the horn wire from the connector on the pad. Remove the horn sounder wire and the insulator that guides the wire through the steering wheel. The insulating sleeve needs to be pushed inward slightly, twisted ¼ turn anticlockwise, and removed from the wheel. There is a light spring in the sleeve, so make sure all the parts are removed together.
Remove the safety clip from the steering shaft, then remove the nut. You might have to have an assistant help hold the wheel while you turn the nut loose. Install the bolts from your steering wheel puller into the tapped holes in the wheel, and turn the puller screw to release the wheel from the steering shaft.
Depress the notched wheel locking plate and remove the locking ring located at the center of the plate. There is a special tool for holding the wheel locking plate while the snap ring is removed, and it will be worth the $15.00 you'll pay for it. It can be done without the tool, but it is an exercise in frustration unless you are an octopus. I've done it several times using the "Armstrong" method, now I have the tool and use the "Brainstrong" method instead.
When the wheel locking plate is removed, you can look at the left lower side of the turn signal switch and see a pan head Phillips screw that hold the turn signal lever in place. Remove this screw and plate, then move the lever out of the way. There are three more pan head screws that hold the turn signal/hazard lamp switch to the upper column. Remove those and lift the turn signal switch out of the way. You may need to feed some extra wire from under the column to allow the switch to clear the steering shaft and move out of the way completely.
Once the turn signal/hazard switch base is out of the way, you should see another pan head screw on the upper right side of the column. This screw holds the lock cylinder in place. Before you remove the lock cylinder, make sure you hold the plastic/metal foil contact assembly in place so you don't lose it down the column when the lock is removed. This switch assembly is what actuates the key warning buzzer/chime. If you have VATS, there should be an additional pair of wires to umplug and feed down along the column.
Remove the column tilt release lever by unscrewing it. Set it nearby since you will need to reinstall it after the upper bowl trim jacket is removed. Remove the turn signal / multifunction lever shaft by carefully pulling it out of the switch. Unplug the cruise control wire harness (if equipped). Remove the remaining upper bowl trim screws and lift the upper bowl off the column. Find the column tilt release lever and thread it back in hand tight for now.
Remove the upper steering shaft bearing nut and retainer clip. Remove the upper bearing set. Remove the actuator rod link from the rack/sector that operates with the lock cylinder. Disconnect the link from the clip in the lower column.
Remove the balance spring cap with a #2 or larger Phillips driver or larger square drive. This will allow the upper column fall to the lowest tilt position.
Remove the pivot pins from either side of the upper column using an 8-32 screw and nuts as a puller. Assemble the parts as shown, fully bottoming the screw by hand (to get the maximum thread bearing strength), then back it off a turn or two in case the bolt snaps later. Once the screw thrread is set, run the nut down with a wrench to jack the pivot pin out of the column die casting. It the screw snaps, there should be adequate material to back it out by hand (which is why you didn't bottom it out to begin with). Usually, the pin will pull easily once it starts moving and deforms the stakes that were retaining it.
Once the pins are removed, operate the column tilt release lever and remove the upper column half. Note the routing of the ignition switch linkage rod(s) when you remove the upper column half. Tilt the upper stub shaft and universal joint to allow the joint to be separated.
At this point, you should be viewing the top of the lower column half and four Torx cap screws. Remove these screws one at a time, clean the threads, and apply a light coating of LocTite 242 or an equivalent medium strength removable thread locker. Tighten the bolts by hand until all four are reinstalled. Torque these bolts to 180 in/lb.
Reassemble the upper column half in reverse order. Take time to clean and grease all the moving parts so you can have another ten years of reliable operation. Every moving part, including the turn signal switch and cancelling cam, should be cleaned and lubricated with white lithium grease.
When assembly is complete, torque the steering wheel nut to 35 ft/lb. There are already enough loose nuts behind steering wheels on our roadways....
There is a possibility that some of the pan head screws are Torx instead of Phillips. I believe this was more common on 1985 and later cars, but your's may have them as well.
There is also a very remote possibility that your car has an inflatable restraint, in which case you'll need to disconnect the battery and insulate all connections before you start. You should also have a service manual to detail the proper procedure for removing and re-centering the triggering coil and pickup for the SIR. You don't want to have that done incorrectly. Come to think of it, a manual is a good idea, anyway.
07-29-2011, 12:40 AM
#54
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Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: T5
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
i have the same issue, but my column is more loose on the tilt lever side. put new pivot pins in it, stayed somewhat tight for a day or so and noticed the pivot pin on the left side started backing out. is there a kit to rebuild that section. i'm sure those four bolts are loose, but what about the actual tilt parts? 1990 formula with vats and airbag.
07-29-2011, 05:41 AM
#55
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
i have the same issue, but my column is more loose on the tilt lever side. put new pivot pins in it, stayed somewhat tight for a day or so and noticed the pivot pin on the left side started backing out. is there a kit to rebuild that section. i'm sure those four bolts are loose, but what about the actual tilt parts? 1990 formula with vats and airbag.
09-17-2011, 02:15 PM
#56
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
I'm doing my 89 right now. the TILT LEVER is not coming out. I don't want to mar it with pliers. Does it simply unscrew, or is it pressed on there ?
09-17-2011, 03:30 PM
#57
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Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
unscrew. wrap it in tape before putting some pliers on it and still be careful.
09-17-2011, 09:49 PM
#58
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
I'm in there pretty deep now. I had to drop the column an inch to make room for the signal switch wires to loosen up. There was not enough wiggle room to get the signal switch over the spindle.
And I'm looking at the turn signal switch, there is a hair line crack in it. So I may order one if it's still available from GM.
I have parts piled up in a cup, I hope I can figure out where they go, so small and tedious. The column is some piece of mechanical engineering !
And I'm looking at the turn signal switch, there is a hair line crack in it. So I may order one if it's still available from GM.
I have parts piled up in a cup, I hope I can figure out where they go, so small and tedious. The column is some piece of mechanical engineering !
09-18-2011, 09:33 AM
#59
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Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
You can disconnect the switch wires at the base of the column from their connector and maybe get enough slack to pull them over.
AZ has a replacement turn signal switch so it should be available other places as well if an original GM can't be found.
AZ has a replacement turn signal switch so it should be available other places as well if an original GM can't be found.
09-18-2011, 08:22 PM
#60
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/
I paid $16 for a PDF of detailed instructions. It's a nice set of pictures, and details..... and nice to know all the parts are still readily available.
I paid $16 for a PDF of detailed instructions. It's a nice set of pictures, and details..... and nice to know all the parts are still readily available.
Last edited by Eightyninef; 09-18-2011 at 09:30 PM.
01-13-2012, 08:55 PM
#61
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
Had my Steering column rebuilt on my 92 RS for about $600.00, as part of the rebuilding of the car. I was able to get all new parts for the 92, however my 88 Iroc Z Convert. is apparently different from the 92. This is a common problem with all 3rd gens. Wish me luck in finding the parts.
01-14-2012, 04:59 PM
#63
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Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
the main differences between the columns are air bag or not, manual or auto trans, VATS or not, tilt or not, and of course floor or column shift.
i mention column shift because if need be, there are many internal parts that are interchangeable between the floor and column shift GM tilt steering columns.
because many of the pictures have vanished over the years, here are a couple of links.
the first shows how to tighten a loose steering wheel because of loose bolts.
there are 4 bolts that come loose.
in it he says you can only get to 2 of the bolts using his method, which is true. but you can get to 3 of them by removing the sector drive gear from the lock cylinder cross shaft and then tilting the column in the right direction.
the gear comes off and goes back on pretty easy.
also, when i repaired cars for a living, i used a 6 point 1/4 inch socket for a 1/4 drive.
sometimes a short socket with an extension works on the 3 bolts, other times i used a deep socket. if you use a standard 6 point socket, use one of good quality.
http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html
complete column break down,
http://www.diyfiero.com/dropspot/Jaz...ck_Rebuild.pdf
i mention column shift because if need be, there are many internal parts that are interchangeable between the floor and column shift GM tilt steering columns.
because many of the pictures have vanished over the years, here are a couple of links.
the first shows how to tighten a loose steering wheel because of loose bolts.
there are 4 bolts that come loose.
in it he says you can only get to 2 of the bolts using his method, which is true. but you can get to 3 of them by removing the sector drive gear from the lock cylinder cross shaft and then tilting the column in the right direction.
the gear comes off and goes back on pretty easy.
also, when i repaired cars for a living, i used a 6 point 1/4 inch socket for a 1/4 drive.
sometimes a short socket with an extension works on the 3 bolts, other times i used a deep socket. if you use a standard 6 point socket, use one of good quality.
http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html
complete column break down,
http://www.diyfiero.com/dropspot/Jaz...ck_Rebuild.pdf
06-26-2012, 01:58 AM
#64
Member
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
I know this is an old thread, but I need to tackle this job again in my latest car. I took a picture for each step last time to compliment the tech article and they've been lost or deleted. I know someone PM'd me maybe 2 or 3 years ago and I emailed them to him.
Anyhow, I can get better pics this time around with an indoor workspace and modern digital camera. Anybody interested or should I not bother?
Anyhow, I can get better pics this time around with an indoor workspace and modern digital camera. Anybody interested or should I not bother?
07-03-2012, 12:55 PM
#65
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
I know this is an old thread, but I need to tackle this job again in my latest car. I took a picture for each step last time to compliment the tech article and they've been lost or deleted. I know someone PM'd me maybe 2 or 3 years ago and I emailed them to him.
Anyhow, I can get better pics this time around with an indoor workspace and modern digital camera. Anybody interested or should I not bother?
Anyhow, I can get better pics this time around with an indoor workspace and modern digital camera. Anybody interested or should I not bother?
So I've been doing research on the subject matter, and looking for better pics / vids.
07-05-2012, 01:21 AM
#66
Member
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
A video might be a good idea. I've never made a digital video or edited one, but when I do it maybe I'll give it a shot.
08-07-2012, 07:27 PM
#67
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0L
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
I would like to see a step by step with pics. I can't remember how the ignition switch actuator attaches to the switch.
08-07-2012, 08:11 PM
#68
Member
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
haven't forgot about it, just started a new "tools required" job recently so I've got to bring some tools home and pick up a lock plate puller from AZ.
08-07-2012, 09:06 PM
#69
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Car: GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Aussie 9-bolt/3.27 posi
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
I know this is an old thread, but I need to tackle this job again in my latest car. I took a picture for each step last time to compliment the tech article and they've been lost or deleted. I know someone PM'd me maybe 2 or 3 years ago and I emailed them to him.
Anyhow, I can get better pics this time around with an indoor workspace and modern digital camera. Anybody interested or should I not bother?
Anyhow, I can get better pics this time around with an indoor workspace and modern digital camera. Anybody interested or should I not bother?
Here you go guys....... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...-steering.html
05-16-2013, 02:37 PM
#70
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Car: 1985 Z28 Black w/ Yellow Stripes
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: Corvette 700r4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Steering column feels like a loose tooth...
Your car will be a little easier if there is no VATS wiring and SIR coil/wiring/gas bag. If you have VATS, there are only two more wires that need to be handled. With SIR, you have an entire additional procedure to remove and reassemble the system. You really should have a service manual in hand for that procedure.
Start by centering the steering wheel, so that the wheel can be replaced in exactly the same position on the shaft easily. The steering shaft is both marked and keyed, but centering the wheel makes the job easier to "eyeball", and keeps the turn signal cancelling cam out of the way in later steps.
Next, remove the hazard flasher **** on the lower right side of the steering column. There should be a small (#0) Phillips screw holding the **** in place. Find the release clip or bolts for the horn sounder pad and remove it. As the pad is removed from the wheel, unplug the horn wire from the connector on the pad. Remove the horn sounder wire and the insulator that guides the wire through the steering wheel. The insulating sleeve needs to be pushed inward slightly, twisted ¼ turn anticlockwise, and removed from the wheel. There is a light spring in the sleeve, so make sure all the parts are removed together.
Remove the safety clip from the steering shaft, then remove the nut. You might have to have an assistant help hold the wheel while you turn the nut loose. Install the bolts from your steering wheel puller into the tapped holes in the wheel, and turn the puller screw to release the wheel from the steering shaft.
Depress the notched wheel locking plate and remove the locking ring located at the center of the plate. There is a special tool for holding the wheel locking plate while the snap ring is removed, and it will be worth the $15.00 you'll pay for it. It can be done without the tool, but it is an exercise in frustration unless you are an octopus. I've done it several times using the "Armstrong" method, now I have the tool and use the "Brainstrong" method instead.
When the wheel locking plate is removed, you can look at the left lower side of the turn signal switch and see a pan head Phillips screw that hold the turn signal lever in place. Remove this screw and plate, then move the lever out of the way. There are three more pan head screws that hold the turn signal/hazard lamp switch to the upper column. Remove those and lift the turn signal switch out of the way. You may need to feed some extra wire from under the column to allow the switch to clear the steering shaft and move out of the way completely.
Once the turn signal/hazard switch base is out of the way, you should see another pan head screw on the upper right side of the column. This screw holds the lock cylinder in place. Before you remove the lock cylinder, make sure you hold the plastic/metal foil contact assembly in place so you don't lose it down the column when the lock is removed. This switch assembly is what actuates the key warning buzzer/chime. If you have VATS, there should be an additional pair of wires to umplug and feed down along the column.
Remove the column tilt release lever by unscrewing it. Set it nearby since you will need to reinstall it after the upper bowl trim jacket is removed. Remove the turn signal / multifunction lever shaft by carefully pulling it out of the switch. Unplug the cruise control wire harness (if equipped). Remove the remaining upper bowl trim screws and lift the upper bowl off the column. Find the column tilt release lever and thread it back in hand tight for now.
Remove the upper steering shaft bearing nut and retainer clip. Remove the upper bearing set. Remove the actuator rod link from the rack/sector that operates with the lock cylinder. Disconnect the link from the clip in the lower column.
Remove the balance spring cap with a #2 or larger Phillips driver or larger square drive. This will allow the upper column fall to the lowest tilt position.
Remove the pivot pins from either side of the upper column using an 8-32 screw and nuts as a puller. Assemble the parts as shown, fully bottoming the screw by hand (to get the maximum thread bearing strength), then back it off a turn or two in case the bolt snaps later. Once the screw thrread is set, run the nut down with a wrench to jack the pivot pin out of the column die casting. It the screw snaps, there should be adequate material to back it out by hand (which is why you didn't bottom it out to begin with). Usually, the pin will pull easily once it starts moving and deforms the stakes that were retaining it.
Once the pins are removed, operate the column tilt release lever and remove the upper column half. Note the routing of the ignition switch linkage rod(s) when you remove the upper column half. Tilt the upper stub shaft and universal joint to allow the joint to be separated.
At this point, you should be viewing the top of the lower column half and four Torx cap screws. Remove these screws one at a time, clean the threads, and apply a light coating of LocTite 242 or an equivalent medium strength removable thread locker. Tighten the bolts by hand until all four are reinstalled. Torque these bolts to 180 in/lb.
Reassemble the upper column half in reverse order. Take time to clean and grease all the moving parts so you can have another ten years of reliable operation. Every moving part, including the turn signal switch and cancelling cam, should be cleaned and lubricated with white lithium grease.
When assembly is complete, torque the steering wheel nut to 35 ft/lb. There are already enough loose nuts behind steering wheels on our roadways....
There is a possibility that some of the pan head screws are Torx instead of Phillips. I believe this was more common on 1985 and later cars, but your's may have them as well.
There is also a very remote possibility that your car has an inflatable restraint, in which case you'll need to disconnect the battery and insulate all connections before you start. You should also have a service manual to detail the proper procedure for removing and re-centering the triggering coil and pickup for the SIR. You don't want to have that done incorrectly. Come to think of it, a manual is a good idea, anyway.
Start by centering the steering wheel, so that the wheel can be replaced in exactly the same position on the shaft easily. The steering shaft is both marked and keyed, but centering the wheel makes the job easier to "eyeball", and keeps the turn signal cancelling cam out of the way in later steps.
Next, remove the hazard flasher **** on the lower right side of the steering column. There should be a small (#0) Phillips screw holding the **** in place. Find the release clip or bolts for the horn sounder pad and remove it. As the pad is removed from the wheel, unplug the horn wire from the connector on the pad. Remove the horn sounder wire and the insulator that guides the wire through the steering wheel. The insulating sleeve needs to be pushed inward slightly, twisted ¼ turn anticlockwise, and removed from the wheel. There is a light spring in the sleeve, so make sure all the parts are removed together.
Remove the safety clip from the steering shaft, then remove the nut. You might have to have an assistant help hold the wheel while you turn the nut loose. Install the bolts from your steering wheel puller into the tapped holes in the wheel, and turn the puller screw to release the wheel from the steering shaft.
Depress the notched wheel locking plate and remove the locking ring located at the center of the plate. There is a special tool for holding the wheel locking plate while the snap ring is removed, and it will be worth the $15.00 you'll pay for it. It can be done without the tool, but it is an exercise in frustration unless you are an octopus. I've done it several times using the "Armstrong" method, now I have the tool and use the "Brainstrong" method instead.
When the wheel locking plate is removed, you can look at the left lower side of the turn signal switch and see a pan head Phillips screw that hold the turn signal lever in place. Remove this screw and plate, then move the lever out of the way. There are three more pan head screws that hold the turn signal/hazard lamp switch to the upper column. Remove those and lift the turn signal switch out of the way. You may need to feed some extra wire from under the column to allow the switch to clear the steering shaft and move out of the way completely.
Once the turn signal/hazard switch base is out of the way, you should see another pan head screw on the upper right side of the column. This screw holds the lock cylinder in place. Before you remove the lock cylinder, make sure you hold the plastic/metal foil contact assembly in place so you don't lose it down the column when the lock is removed. This switch assembly is what actuates the key warning buzzer/chime. If you have VATS, there should be an additional pair of wires to umplug and feed down along the column.
Remove the column tilt release lever by unscrewing it. Set it nearby since you will need to reinstall it after the upper bowl trim jacket is removed. Remove the turn signal / multifunction lever shaft by carefully pulling it out of the switch. Unplug the cruise control wire harness (if equipped). Remove the remaining upper bowl trim screws and lift the upper bowl off the column. Find the column tilt release lever and thread it back in hand tight for now.
Remove the upper steering shaft bearing nut and retainer clip. Remove the upper bearing set. Remove the actuator rod link from the rack/sector that operates with the lock cylinder. Disconnect the link from the clip in the lower column.
Remove the balance spring cap with a #2 or larger Phillips driver or larger square drive. This will allow the upper column fall to the lowest tilt position.
Remove the pivot pins from either side of the upper column using an 8-32 screw and nuts as a puller. Assemble the parts as shown, fully bottoming the screw by hand (to get the maximum thread bearing strength), then back it off a turn or two in case the bolt snaps later. Once the screw thrread is set, run the nut down with a wrench to jack the pivot pin out of the column die casting. It the screw snaps, there should be adequate material to back it out by hand (which is why you didn't bottom it out to begin with). Usually, the pin will pull easily once it starts moving and deforms the stakes that were retaining it.
Once the pins are removed, operate the column tilt release lever and remove the upper column half. Note the routing of the ignition switch linkage rod(s) when you remove the upper column half. Tilt the upper stub shaft and universal joint to allow the joint to be separated.
At this point, you should be viewing the top of the lower column half and four Torx cap screws. Remove these screws one at a time, clean the threads, and apply a light coating of LocTite 242 or an equivalent medium strength removable thread locker. Tighten the bolts by hand until all four are reinstalled. Torque these bolts to 180 in/lb.
Reassemble the upper column half in reverse order. Take time to clean and grease all the moving parts so you can have another ten years of reliable operation. Every moving part, including the turn signal switch and cancelling cam, should be cleaned and lubricated with white lithium grease.
When assembly is complete, torque the steering wheel nut to 35 ft/lb. There are already enough loose nuts behind steering wheels on our roadways....
There is a possibility that some of the pan head screws are Torx instead of Phillips. I believe this was more common on 1985 and later cars, but your's may have them as well.
There is also a very remote possibility that your car has an inflatable restraint, in which case you'll need to disconnect the battery and insulate all connections before you start. You should also have a service manual to detail the proper procedure for removing and re-centering the triggering coil and pickup for the SIR. You don't want to have that done incorrectly. Come to think of it, a manual is a good idea, anyway.
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Hotrodboba400
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12-10-2019 07:07 PM
