I'm in Canada and I need an etest for my car... And it won't pass with the broken speedometer cable. Can someone please send me a step by step tutorial so I can attempt to fix it. Thank you

 

This might be helpful too

 

Good advice, but your speedo looks nothing like my '92 RS. It's total electronic, no "J" clips. My speedo gets "jumpy" once in a while and the odometer and trip don't work. Upon inspection, I found almost everything in there was corroded, slightly, looking to use trans fluid, a few drops from a hypo only where I can. I also found the connections on the circuit board were corroded badly. Cleaned them up with 400 grit wet/dry. I also found a 150uf/25VDC electrolytic capacitor on that board had leaked. Removed it, cleaned up the board, replaced the cap. Had to improvise a jumper from the cap to 1 of the diodes because the fluid from the cap ate one of the foil paths. I've seen a lot of leaky electrolytics in ham radios do the same thing. Oh, and check the connections the whole cluster makes to the harness in the dash. I found some of the copper tabs were loose. A little super glue under the tabs fixed that. Polished them up also with 400 grit. In my radio work the majority of problems are "cold" solder joints and bad connections. Kenwood ham gear is notorious for this!
Check out my ham web site, go to https://www.qrz.com/index.html

Then in the upper left hand corner type in my call sign...... N8TCQ. Caps aren't required.

Thanks to everyone on here, your information and experience is invaluable.

More info, I fixed the tach problem. Found the info on this web site. Had to cut a foil path to the resistor chip, then put 2 resistors in series. One was a 100K, the other was 150K. That adds up to 250K or 250,000 ohms. That's about 6,000 ohms less than recommended but it was parts I had on hand. The resistors were 1/2 watt types. You could probably get the exact value of 256K from Mouser or Digikey.
Still working on the speedo, need to lube it up. I'll post results soon.

 

Thanks for this write up and pics! Worked like a charm.

Actually, took two tries, though, so I have a couple of simple recommendation if these haven't been mentioned yet.

One, as James stated, make sure to push in on the reset stick to fully seat the axle when wiring it up.

Two, bench test the odometer/trip with a cordless drill before re-installing in the car. I thought I was all good, but the trip still didn't work in the car on the test drive. Had to pull the cluster back out and fix, the issue was that the wire I used might have been a bit too thin, and/or I didn't seat the axle fully. If I had tested it before reinstalling the cluster, I could have avoided the second cluster pull.

 

I'm not following what he is saying. Does he mean there is a "little computer attached to the speedo" of a 115mph version and removing it with cause the speedometer to read like the 145mph style? You would just have to change the face to 145mph.

 

Quick update to the OG's post. I stumbled on the same problem with my odometer and today I got a junked speedo that I had the pleasure taking apart and fix it (Not totally fix it cause the needle shaft was snapped), but I took some up to date pictures that people like myself could use which show exactly details and zoomed in....sorry OG, your pics were just way out of focus brother....

So not sure it was covered or not, more likely yes, but you DO NOT need to or plainly DO NOT pry or jimmy off the speedo needle..... the problem shaft is accessed from the back...period.




The problem....and yes, this view is from under the speedo face which I removed for learning purposes only.....




This is the fix with face screwed back on....