Okay guys, I need alittle advice before I start hitting the classifieds in acouple of months.

I'm going for my first third gen, F-body car. My dream car, to be exact. This is new, uncharted territory. I'm through driving the cars I "should" be driving, and I'm finally ready to start driving the car I want to drive.

What is reasonable for a descent condition 'premium' (IROC, Z-28, GTA, Formula)? T-tops, V8, and perhaps a manual transmission. I define condition as no major rust issues, a clean but not perfect interior, uncracked dash, no major rust or body issues. Paint really isn't an issue as long as the body is in decent shape.

Overall, a good, clean, dependable driver with alittle bit of speed and a good dash of style.

I thought I'd come here and talk with you guys before I started looking around in the classified sections because sometimes when your selling a car you tend to be alittle biased. Also, location isn't an issue. For the right car, I'll go anywhere. Even if I have to get a one-way greyhound ride and drive it home.

I'd really appreciate any advice or insight. I’ve been waiting 25 years to make this jump…

 

for the price your probly lookin at 4 or 5 thousand and as far as manual transmisson good luck findin a good one and u should probley look through the classifieds on this site there allways somthin good in there. good luck findin ur dream car theses third gens are great

 

4 or 5K? Sounds reasonable I suppose, as long as its in good condition. Though I'm not particularly looking for a ‘show room quality’ car.

How much does it usually vary between an IROC, a Formula, and a GTA?

Thanks for the Insight!

-Dirk

 

you shouldnt have to much trouble findin a nice iroc,formaula,gta for around 3000

 

Oh, wow! Thats considerably less than I had originally anticipated! I thought GTAs where much rarer, and thus much more expensive?

 

no not really just goin through the classifieds on this site u can find a couple good gtas for a little over 3000

 

That’s really good news; quite the opposite from what I had assumed. 3000 sounds almost too good to be true. But I suppose thats what I get from assuming without researching. Well, that and cruising by used car lots.

 

ya thats one of the best things about these cars there so nice and yet so cheap and i would relly recomd goin through this site cause the people here acualy know what there cars are worth and on a lot of other classifieds the people want alot more for them

 

I guess that’s been part of my reluctance to get one until now. I remember seeing Z-28’s around the local used car lots for 6.5+. Heck, the RS V6s were usually marked up to around 5.

But I was young, and never thought to hit up the classifieds. I suppose alittle more age has added a little more wisdom. heh

I suppose with that in mind, I ought to be able to get a nice one for 4K. Which I had previously thought would only get me in the door...

 

ya dealer always jack up the price if your buying or kick down hella low if your trading

 

Well, if you can get a nice IROC or GTA for 3-3.5K, what do the 'entry level' good running, but rough around the edges V8s average?

 

If your patient and know where to look you will find your dream car. I bought an 85 Iroc, new paint, new cowl hood, new supension, new brakes, new motor and tranny, almost everything new for $850. All I did was throw away the ugly red interior and swapped it out for black by looking through JY's and I had a beauty.
Good luck to you and look, look, look

 

Holy Cow! Did you find it on here or locally?

 

I found it here, I also found a MINT 89 RS this summer for $1200 locally, no rust many new parts and new paint on craigs list. Only down fall was the V6 but what the heck

 

You know thats got to be the best boost of motivation I could get...

I originally came here thinking just to get 'into the door' I'd need several thousand dollars. In light of this, seems to be that I should be able to find that good IROC I've always been dreaming of for 3500 or less. (I thought I'd have to spend that on a rough RS V8 'beater'!)

Thanks for inspiration and encouragement!

 

There is a mint Iroc about 4 houses down from me, he want's $2500 but I will break him eventually

 

lol! What area are you located in? Sounds like a gold mine!

 

One thing to be aware of is what one person refers to as mint condition is not mint in anothers eyes. I have yet to see an IROC-Z or GTA in the condition I want for less than $5k. The ones I find are usually in the $8-12k range. To me, a $3500 car will need a lot of work to get back to the condition I want. With that, replacing the interior components, carpets, engine/suspension work and possible paint, the price is right back up to where I consider a car mint. The difference is I can enjoy the car from day one if I spend more up front.

 

I agree with scottmoyer, mint to some people is junk to me!! Some think a clean roof means the cars mint. I understand your looking for a "driver car" But you sure dont want to spend 3-4 grand and have to put another 3-4 grand to make it a good car, unless you really like to "putts with it". Theres also a wide range of options to choose from. tuned port 350's to 305's to the old feedback carb motor lg4. I'd personally stay away from the last. NO POWER.

 

Hit the enter button before I was done. Figure just what you want because the price could vary greatly depending on the options you want. But 10 to 12 grand should get you a nice car. More and you'll get a show car that you wont always want to drive. Good luck with your quest! You'll love it when you find it!!

 

I thought the 4bl Carb would have a good deal of power?

 

I've had all the configurations, I currently have a 88 iroc with 2300 miles with the 350. Great performane. I also have a 87 convertible with the 305 with the 5 speed manual trans. Good performance and fun to go through the gears, but can feel the lower torque from the 350. I had and sold a 87 convert with the 4 bbl carb 305. Did not feel like a performance car at all when compared to the other 2!! Barelly could break the tires loose. It was a low milage car also 28,000 , so the engine was for from worn. I'd have to say my favorite is the manual trans! but I also love verts!!

 

Could not agree with Scott more. I paid considerably more than $5k but the only thing I have done since buying my 92 Z is wash it. Just remember the old saying "You get what you pay for".

 

Which engine do you prefer? When I was in school, the 5.0 (5.slow..) always caught hell.

 

Sometime you can find people who are in a bind like me, leaving state in 4 weeks. I have a 87 Formula with no rust or dents, new engine, very good interior, would be excellent if had time to straighten carpet LOL, a nice car. I am on short time and have to unload quick. Maybe 3000.00. Other then that once in a lifetime op, be prepared to pay more. Too many people have got "a good deal" and 2 weeks later had a driveway queen.

 

[quote=Dirk Edgewoode;3598253][quote=blkiroc87;3598206]I've had all the configurations, I currently have a 88 iroc with 2300 miles with the 350. Great performane. I also have a 87 convertible with the 305 with the 5 speed manual trans. Good performance and fun to go through the gears, but can feel the lower torque from the 350. I had and sold a 87 convert with the 4 bbl carb 305. Did not feel like a performance car at all when compared to the other 2!!
Well the 350 is the quickest but with the auto trans kind of boring to drive.But she pulls pretty well. I like the 305 with the 5 speed manual trans. Back then the 305's with the manual came with a better cam which incresed the h/p to 215 just under that of the 350 but did nothing for the torque, which is what you feel in the seat. But is fun to drive. I'm pretty much past my days of doing burnouts ,call me old. I just dont like to rip on my cars!!

 

I got my 89 Formula 350 for $3,000. It had 110k miles at the time. It came with all the high performance options. It still runs perfect! I couldn't ask for a better deal! It needs a little cosmetic work, but it's still a great car! Check out my profile picture.

 

it needs cosmetic work ? it looks great

 

Here is the thing:
1) LB9 (305/M5) or L98, bar none, I would hold out for either one of these
2) IROC, Formula or GTA, you will find more IROC's than anything, and the least amount of GTA's, but all GTA's will have TPI as a minimum.
3) Hold out for the car you really want. If you have a driver then you are not in any hurry to get this car, do some research, figure out if you want things like T-tops or not. I like the way the look on the car but I rarely take them off... But they tend to leak if you have the 1982 - 1991 style seals. If you park it in a garage and only drive it on days you know it will not rain then go for T-tops, usually they do not demand much more on the sale. The down side is if you want the L98 then you will be hard pressed to find one with T-tops, they are out there but just unusual.


If you want Rare and ultra cool then look for a 1989 GTA or Formula 350 Convertible...

John

 

$5K can get you my 88 Formula.

 

I paid $3k for my 170,000 mile GTA-350/700R4.3.29 posi 9 bolt-and the only things I've HAD to do is the heater core & fuel pump.

Could use a paint job, but nothing real major. Just a scuff-n-shoot.
The AC was merely disconnected.
The tranny was rebuilt 6 months before I bought it.
The rear wing,which is famous for cracking, had been replaced with an aftermarket fiberglass one.

Posi is STRONG, engine runs GREAT, and gets about 16 mpg, around town. I do VERY LITTLE highway driving, so I dunno the highway mileage.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...t/DSC_0133.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...t/DSC_0140.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...t/DSC_0143.jpg



GOOD 245/50 tires, on the gold crosslace wheels
Around here, much over $3k it better be nice.

 

I guess I oughta keep a sharp eye towards Texas!

 

Where you located?

 

Savannah, GA. For the right car, I'll travel though.

For me, good condition doesn’t equate into museum quality or show room quality. And to be honest, as long as the body is in good shape, the condition of the paint, or the lack thereof, is an absolute non-issue. Paint work and minor interior I can handle, major drivetrain work is generally outside my sphere of capability.

I don’t need matching serial numbers, completely original and stock pieces, and an interior that looks like it came off the show room floor last week. I want something I’m not afraid to customize.

My ideal car lay along the lines of either an IROC-Z or a standard Z-28 with either a 350 or a 305. Manual transmission with T-tops is a must. Good body, clean interior, good dash, descent door hinges. Must have a drivetrain that is reliable and in good condition.

GTA or Formula will be almost as good, I just lean towards the IROCs.

 

well ur not gona find a 350 with a manual trans unless someone swaped engines or transmissions cause the 350s onley came in automatic. so that will make it harder to find

 

Yeah, though it seems to be fairly a common swap. Thats what I'm hoping for Though a nice 305 would work I suppose.

 

I did'nt know that Pontiac made a formula 350 as a convertible, if it worked for Pontiac, then why did'nt Chevrolet do it for the Iroc?

 

Thats news to me as well.. I thought GM never made 350 F-body Verts because of safety?

 

I still don't think that GM made a 350 convertible, maybe a aftermarket company did. I'm no expert in Formulas, but theres not a lot of differences from the Irocs. I googled formula 350 convertibe and never found any real pictures of one.

 

Like the "legendary" 350/T5, from the factory...You aren't going to find it.

Lots of "I had one." or "I saw one back then, at the dealership.", but nobody has ever actually produced CONCRETE evidence of one

Might as well claim you saw a factory LT4 1992 Camaro...or a factory 454 Camaro.

 

I got my car for 2000 canadian, back when the cdn dollar was about 90 cents US. The owner basically begged me to buy it, because he couldnt keep it anymore. The motor cost about 5k to build, so i basically bought the motor, the car was a plus. 140 000 kms only, thats around 90 000 miles on the car, and less than 5000 km on the motor. Turns out the thing is really well rust proofed so no rust either.

Dont be in a hurry to buy, and you might find one for a steal. I saw a twin turbo car with manual trans, race seats, real sharp car. Suspension and the works. The guy blew his motor, he said it needs a new bottom end. Was asking 5K for it.

The T56 is worth about 2k, the twin turbos are probably 5k on their own with all the plumbing, and he has way more stuff in it..... So i think this one is a steal if you can do the mechanical work.

http://orlando.craigslist.org/car/514034904.html

 

2800 here. 6 grand later, I still love spending money on it and am a crate engine away from a hot car.

 

Quick question off subject; does 2nd Gens have such an enthusiastic online community as the 3rd Gen? I’ve rarely seen such a vibrant community for one particular phase a car..

 

yes don't be in a hurry. Buy the most exspensive one you can afford. My was painted+ 10K in receipts. It's pretty fast and looks awesome.

Let the previous owner sink all the money into it and then you can buy it for less.

 

GM did not make a Convertible F-body after 1969... From 1987-2002 they were all converted by ASC... For that matter ASC did just about all of the convertibles for GM from the early 80's & up, The Corvette, Camaro, Cavalier, SSR, Firebird, Sunbird, Riviera, Reatta & Eldorado were all done by ASC, not GM, they were contracted to do so. I do not believe GM technically made a Convertible from 1976 until the C5 Corvette.

I highly suspect due to fuel milage was the reason for no 350 Powered Convertibles NOT safety or body flex, its common misconception however. I can safely state that my Formula 350 convertible does not flex too much under hard acceleration. From 1987-1990 Pontiac did not offer the Vert again due to Fuel milage and meeting the EPA requirements the car would not have met the average 22.5 Mpg required at the time without getting hit with a penalty, it was not until 1991 when they changed the aerodynamics of the car and the lighter ground effects when they could actually offer the TA Vert.

With that said, and we all understand that ASC did all of the F-body conversions for GM, ASC made Special order Convertibles for Pontiac dealers, to be made PRIOR to the first sale of the car. a total of about 600 cars were made between 1987 & 1989, of those 600 about 200 350 powered cars were made, 42 Formula 350's and 139 GTA or Trans Am 350's were made. By all intents and purposes the cars were identical to the Chevrolet except for some styling changes, they use the same parts for the same year and meet the same safety requirements as the Camaro. What is more interesting is the value of a 1989 GTA 350 Vert typically is more than an 1991/1992 Trans Am Vert equally equipped, with the same miles and similar condition on ebay...

Now you know.

JOhn

 

I MUST SAY THERE ARE DEALS TO BE HAD. i JUST PICKED UP A 91 GTA 305 TPI 5-SPEED 85,000+ MILES FOR 1200. THE GUY WAS IN A HARD TIME SO I CAUGHT A BREAK. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING I CAN SAY IS IF YOU SEE A CAR SITTING IN SOMEONES YARD OR DRIVEWAY DO NOT BE AFRAID TO STOP AND ASK ABOUT IT!!! THATS HOW I FOUND MY BABY!! SOMETIMES YOU NEED TO TAKE THE INITIATIVE IF YOU SEE SOMETHING YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN. I THANK MYSELF EVERYDAY FOR STOPPING AND ASKING ABOUT MY CAR. YOU NEVER KNOW UNLESS YOU TRY!!!

 

There are a TON of 3rd gen 5-spd's and convertibles out there posing as 350's. Be very wary. The two engines (305 & 350 TPI) basically look identical.
Some people are just plain ignorant and think it's a 350 or have been told it's a 350.
Others that arn't ingnorant are scammers, often changing out the badges to say "5.7L" and even ripping out the SPID RPO decal.
A good place to start is with the VIN's eighth digit. Check for either an F (LB9 5.0L TPI) or an 8 (L98 5.7L TPI). That will at least tell you what the car originally had.
If the seller tries to convince you that's it's been swapped, he/she better provide you with some damn good documentation, or better yet, get the casting # off the block (the only sure way to identify the engine).

Good luck.

 

I got my RS for $1500. It's a little rough around the edges but it was good where it mattered. I bought it so I could butcher up a car without trashing a perfectly good IROC or Z.

I got a carbureted motor going in and all kinds of little things. To me the nicer and more optioned out a car is, the more I feel weird about modifications (like my gauges in the dash, engine swap, etc).

Those all original specced out cars are going to be valuable one day.