What would you pay for a 350 IROC, 1989 with 30k original miles, original owner? Inside is nice, but needs a new dash and needs paint. It was original paint and dash but was sitting outside.

 

Hard to say Bro, With 30k on the clock. Hows she run? Has she been maintained? Any rust?

 

Always test drive the car after sitting overnight to check for starting issues that can be covered up by a warm motor. Let the car idle from 0* to operating temp (around 180-200*). Then take the car for a drive for 15min or so, take in sounds. Banging, clunking, squeaking etc.

Check all fluids, their levels and their condition.
Check fuses
Check ALL lights. Blinkers, headlights, running lights, dome light, hatch, sidemarkers etc.
Look for rust anywhere and everywhere.
Open both doors, hatch and hood and feel how they open and close (Checking hinges and struts)
If T-tops, take both off and inspect for rust on T-bar.
Check hoses, clamps, and hard lines for any dry rotting or rusting of hard lines.
If you can put the car on a lift and inspect the underneath for rust or frame damage do it (Like where people jack the car up on the oil pan, or trans pan or directly on the frame rail without blocks of wood for protection and weight distribution)

Um, that sounds like a nice run of things to check.

On top of those check anything you feel is important on a car.

 

The car is very nice and everything checks. Very little surface rust on some of the suspension, southern only car with zero rust on body. It only needs a dash and paint to be extremely nice, not show quality but extremely nice daily driver with the ocassional drive in. So what should I offer?

 

Offer what you feel is acceptable for negotiation. Another 100% original with 60k 3rd Gen is on here going for $6500 and people think that's too much. So do a bit of research on others around this condition and go from there.

That or ask the guy what he wants, and go from there.

 

I agree ask the guy what he wants and go from there, he may want $15,000 for it based on miles only, and you may be wasting your time.

I read an interesting thing in a book called "cobra in a barn" which was about a guy who had been finding collectible cars in strange places his whole life, very interesting book but anyway we've all heard the story of an old lady who advertises an old chevy for $500 and it turns out to be a mint vette. But he said it will be very tough to find a deal like that because people who don't know much about cars always think they are worth more than they actually are he said somebody told him "hey, rusty old fiats are getting hard to find". He said in his experience the best deal you're gonna find is somebody who knows cars or the kind of car you're looking at very well and understands the market for them. Case in point with 3rd gens other than this site there is not much good people have to say about them. I live in a town of about 10,000 and I've only talked to 1 person who likes 3rd gens. So I would think unfortunately or fortunately in your case there isn't much of a market for our cars.

Don't be afraid to walk away if he wants to much (or more than you're willing to spend) and call him in about 6 months and see if he still has it (chances are he will) and he may be more ready to deal then. And bring the cash with as many people will tell you money definitely talks especially when it's crisp $100 bills.

 

"Needs paint" is the red flag I see. What good is low mileage if the paint is trashed? Original paint doesn't mean a thing if it's in poor condition. The car isn't 'original' after a repaint. Weather, sun fading, rust, decay, are all more important then numbers on an odometer. Forget the mileage. Review the actual condition, check the book values of AVERAGE condition cars (if the paint is shot, you can safely add a 1 in front of the 30k) to get an approximate value.

If I need to be more clear, let me explain... Body work is EXPENSIVE. Good paint, and the skill to lay that paint on a car, isn't cheap. Most thirdgens aren't worth the cost of a paint job.