This is incorrect. Oil bath filters will expel an oil film onto the MAF element and eventually it won't send an accurate signal to the ECM. There is no performance advantage with K&N, so play it safe and put paper filters in there.

 

Still using the K&N filters I bought in 1991 on my TPI maf system with NO problems.. If you follow the instrucions you will be alright. The problem starts with people who can not read and soak the filters in oil thinking more is better.

Low mileage...Just turned 10,000 miles this last week on my 1987 IROC-z28 and I am the original owner. The wonders of the five digit odometer

 

I agree with DJP87Z28 in it's more than safe using K&N filters on a MAF car. As long as you follow the cleaning directions and don't get over zealous when you reoil. A good rule of thumb is to take a picture of them new as they are preoiled. The light pinkesh red is what you want for oil saturation. A lot of peole disregard the instructions and think more is better when reoiling them. This is where problems start especially on MAF systems with oil bleed over. I've installed and used them on many different vehicles for almost 30 years without an issue. Just have OEM filters/housing if you decide to enter her in shows in stock class.

 

My '85 is one that came with the rivet style moldings, but most were the thin rubbery stick-on moldings.

I used to have an all original '86 LB9 that would chirp 2nd without trouble, sometimes it would flat out break them loose on a downshift. And it was only the 2.73 gears. It did have a MILD shift kit though. Boy I miss that car.

I realize that the thin style moldings were used in '85-'87, but some were body color. Do you know which colors got what?

 

The '82-'85 were the thin black ones. The '86-'87 were the same moldings, but body colored. The '88 and up were the thicker, body colored ones.

 

Thanks. The moldings are so uncommon to see these days, I didn't realize that all the '86 and '87s were body color.

 

The rivet style moldings were not a factory offering. I believe these were dealer options. I've seen a few and it doesn't make sense that GM would use the same RPO for two totally different style moldings.

We've also had the discussion before about the G92 code. We haven't been able to confirm why two cars are configured identical, but one has G92 and the other doesn't. Do a search and you'll find the discussion. Not sure we'll ever know.

Be careful with the 2nd gear chirping. My IROC-Z is in the garage right now with no forward gears. My car always chirps second when I get on it. Last Friday, it chirped second for the last time in 2011. I had the car towed home and now I need a tranny rebuild. The 87 tranny is stronger than the earlier 700R4s and mine broke! Oh well, Merry Christmas to me.

G92 was not used on the 9 bolt only. It was available since the beginning of the 3rd gens in 82.

What do you need to know about installing the stripes. I striped my neighbors car last year. It was actually very easy.

 

Well there goes my theory, it may just be GM changing things. Not a big deal. I was always more concerned about what type of LSD was used, Cone/clutch/Locker. I have had old TA's and Z28's (2nd gen) and the Z28's always had a sloppy posi while the TA's seemed to be very tight.

I have heard this time and time again. I have to agree the the heated element in the MAF will suffer from oil residue exposure. The MAF send very small voltage signals to the ECM ie. 1.0015 volts to .0015 volts just like the O2 sensors.

 

The shift kit is the reason.

 

G92 was the performance axle ratio, (IF offered), from '82-'88. 10 bolt, 9 bolt, didn't matter. From '89 and up it was a performance package on B2L (5.7) or LB9/T5. After mid '89, it also included the N10 dual cats exhaust.

It seems that every '85, LB9, IROC I've seen, has the the GU6 3.42 gear. I suspect that this was the defacto only gear ratio available in '85, for IROCs with an LB9. '85 Z/28's with LB9 seem to all have the GU5 3.23 gears, same as all the '86 IROCs with the LB9, (GU5 3.23).

The '86 IROC at least, had a G92 option with the LG4 and T5. That took you from a standard 3.23 to a 3.73.

 

The option that makes this IROC rare is the G80 limited slip with only 8.3% of all the 1985 camaro's receiving this option.

 

Perhaps. But 66.67% of the Camaros in my garage have it.

 

I just had to replace the tranny mount, jacked it up spun one tire and the other tire spun backwards LOL, After replacing the tranny mount. went out and and did a few donuts twin marks a couple of straight line burnouts,

I hit a water puddle with my right tire and nailed it and the left tire spun too. My bet is the G80 must be a locker type dif.

 

Very clean car! But man I hate those 80mph speedos!!!

 

The stripes are standard automotive grade thickness. To apply them, you first wipe down the entire area with alcohol to remove any wax or grime. If the car has had this paint for awhile, you might even want to clay bar the area to remove any dirt in the paint for a smooth application. Mix a few drops of liquid soap in the spray bottle full of water. spray the car and the back side of the decals. Start applying the decal where you want removing the backing slowly as you position the stripes in place. Do not remove the backing all at once. Remove maybe 6-10", position them and work the bubbles out as you apply the stripes removing only a few inches of backing paper as you go. Use the rubber squeegee to apply them flat.

I let the decals set up for awhile before removing the exterior paper. When removing that paper, peel back a few inches and lay it flat on the car. Start pulling it back towards the starting point of the stripes as flat as you can. Use a sharp razor to puncture little holes in the vinyl if need to release bubbles.

You can install the stripes and decals dry, bu you will not have any forgiveness in placement mistakes. If they are dry and touch the car, they are stuck and could stretch when you try to reset them.

The best temp for this is probably 70* or warmer.

Here's a video I found on youtube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acxeO...eature=related

 

Thanks Scott! great vid, I get it now. Ill try to heat my garage up before applying.

 

Ever since you told me that last week, I've been nervous at the thought of bringing my IROC to the track in the Spring. At the same point, it isn't like I'm gonna drive it like a Buick, either...so I guess what happens, happens...right??

My 86 doesn't chirp the 1-2 shift because, well, it can't At part throttle, it shifts creamy smooth...I love it. At WOT, on the 1-2 shift at 5k its a damn firm shift.

 

Let me correct this now, my car doesn't "chirp" anything, it spins and gets sideways

 

its not hard just requires ALOT of patience so they go on right the first time. I purchased mine from Phoenix Graphix & used a little soapy water so they can slide in place then squeegee out the water. I had my gf help me out & it took about 4 hours but they came out great

 

Great, Ill be doing that Jan 7th. This weekend I am installing the transgo sk-700jr, as my tv is hung up...note not cable but the valve.