My fuel tank vent valve is not working correctly. It remains open all the time and as a result the car smells like gasoline The valve is GM Part No. 10033125 but has been discontinued. It's the plastic valve that is located on the rear axle on the driver's side of the car. It has a tab to clip into a mount on the axle.

Does anyone have one of these used or know a supply source? Thanks much!

 

I would send a e-mail to denny at www.thirdgenranch.com
He may have a used one.

I see on e-bay that there are several other 0ne line connection fuel tank vent valves
One is for a blazer and is a GM part and another is a Dorman product.
You could prob. rig one of these up and attach it to the car body instead of
the axle.

Check with Denny first if you want OEM.

 

you could plug it and get a vented cap.

 

Thanks guys. I was able to scare one up from henryd3, who rocks, along with an HVAC control valve -- two important parts that GM decided to discontinue. I'm going to watch ebay and stockpile a couple of these parts!

As to the vented cap, sounds straightforward. But will that work, or just vent fuel vapors into the air just like my now two-way fuel tank vent valve does? That's what I'd be concerned with.

 

You did the right thing. The vented gas cap will be just as smelly as what you have now. Not a good plan.

 

Absolutely terrible. A car that reeks of gasoline does not inspire a lot of confidence (thank God I don't smoke, LOL!). I'm suprised GM would discontinue a key and relatively inexpensive part like this. If these were '69 Camaro's these would be available next to the potato chips at Jimmy Johns. I guess GM doesn't really consider the third gens worth saving. Probably a summary of GM's attitude towards their products made after 1980 or so.

 

Anyone know if the vent valve for the 4th Gen is the same PSI rating and will work as a replacement ... got two really nice used ones (4th Gen) hence my question as the one for the 3rd Gen's been discontinued and used ones always break when removed as the plastic is so brittle after all these years on the cars ...

 

Bringing this thread back from the dead! Has anyone come up with any good sources for these things? (I've yet to find one...)

 

I had the fuel smell with mine also.
Has any one thought about disassebling the valve cleaning it and putting it back together.

That is what I did with mine and it worked like a charm. Just sayin.
Alot of dirt and crud in there, probably due to the location near the rear wheel.

 

I don't suppose you have any photos of this procedure, do you? Would love to have them for future reference.

 

Here is an old one from my spare parts bin. I will disassemble and clean it tomorrow morning, post some pics with a detailed procedure. Should be a help to everyone here.

 

Wow...ask and you shall receive! Thanks MJS422!

 

X 2!!
I never even pondered taking it apart, only thought about spraying with carb or brake cleaner.

 

Main problem with them is the plastic is so brittle ... the tabs holding it to the metal bracket break so easily and also when you do pry it open you find that some are very easy to take a part while others are really stuck together (from manufacturing when assembled) and hard to take apart without breaking one of the two halves.

If you can twist the upper and lower halves easily it should come apart fairly easy.

 

I will try to be quick about this and keep it short. Besides it will 70 here in Cleveland today and I am really excited about getting my Formula washed up and out for fresh tank of gas and a long cruise.

The most important thing to remember here is not to break the plastic you have to use a pick tool to disassemble the valve, not a screwdriver!

Here is the first pic before disassembly.

 

Next use the the tool to pry back on one of the tabs that keep the two halves locked together.

 

While doing this gently work the tool between the two valve body pieces and add some pressure to pull the help pull and separate the two halves apart. Note only one tab need to be released, not all six. If you do break or deform one it is not a big deal. When reassembled the unit will function fine and stay together.

 

Next step is to pry out and remove the inner spring retainer ring. From there you can completely disassemble.

 

Next clean and degrease all parts. I would recommend super clean and soapy water rather than carb or brake cleaner, both to harsh for the plastic and rubber parts inside.

 

Finally reassemble the pieces and snap together and you are good to go.
Hope this helps some members out, sorry about the poor pic quality I used my Iphone to post this.

Now if you will excuse me I have a Third gen in the garage that needs some exercising. Can't wait to pull the gears! Worst winter here in 30yrs.

Have a good weekend every one.

 

Outstanding! Thank you sir. All copied, captioned, and saved to my hard drive.

From a Metro Detroiter to a N.E. Ohioan, I hope you enjoyed your drive. It's nice to see winter finally over.

 

Thanks for taking the time!! This will come in handy!!

 

worst winter you say! It was a ridiculous winter! I thought it would never end! it did hit 70 here today (early am) but by noon, it dropped 25 degrees! now we're only expecting to hit 41 tommarow with possible snow showers...guess i better pull the thick coat back out of the closet after pullling my summer sandels today.....

 

I hope you enjoyed yesterday and today as I did because there's snow in the forecast on Tuesday.

 

Did you check Gmpartsdirect.Com? I got one from there a couple years ago

 

I need to get one of these to. mine dumps gas on the ground every time I fill up.

 

I am not sure how that could be the fault of the valve itself. The valve is a vent off the top of the tank. It is a 2 way valve, meaning it will let pressure in and out at a set pressure. With that said, I had the same issue as you after installing a fuel pump in my car. It turned out that I had mistakenly switched the rubber line with the fuel return from the fuel injection. So when the tank built up pressure it would spit out fuel since the return inside the tank is low enough to be in liquid and not vapor. My fuel system would still return fuel fine, since it was dumping it through the vent. I switched the lines back where they belonged and problem solved.
Make sure your vent is plumbed properly.

 

The last time I dropped the tank was in 2003. My current problem didn't show up till 2011. I sold the car to a friend in 2008, and he drove it for a couple of years then the car sat for a year in a field. Got moved around every blue moon, but for the most part it just sat. I bought it back, and at first it wouldn't vent at all when filling up. Tried cleaning the vent and now it vents so well it dumps gas on the ground every fill up.

 

I would still check how it is plumbed. The vent is on top of the tank. There should not be any liquid fuel in that line - only vapors.

 

Thanks for the info on cleaning the valve. I work in the parts business and cannot locate a new anywhere. I'll have to give it a try.

 

My 92 recently failed smog in CA because my tank would not hold pressure when tested. It always did in the past and it had the recall work done on the fuel filler neck issue back in the day.

Could this be causing it? I've never even heard of it before. Anyone know the GM P/N for this valve?

 

Possibly. I can't believe the test they run in California.

 

Yeah and they are always changing it too! The past couple tests, they don't even manually verify the EGR function anymore and this last time they added the pressurize the tank thing. Before they would just test the gas cap seal on a machine.

My engine emissions passed with flying colors clean as could be, but I failed just for my tank releasing pressure too quickly. Freakin a.

 

That sucks Alex. When did they add the tank pressure test? Seems like they're trying to invent ways to get our cars off the road.

 

They Are Long Gone.

 

I'm also in need of one of these. Anyone have one they'd like to sell?

 

This last smog around was the first time I have seen them do it, prior it was just testing the fuel cap.

I keep my car registered at a friends address up in the mountains where it's a different smog "zone" from Bakersfield so it's just a tail pipe test and not on a dyno. Surprises me how even the most basic type of test is so rigorous now.

 

Is this #gm 10033125 part the same for all 82-92's???

 

I have a tank ventire valve I took apart and cleaned. Ready to install. $15 plus shipping. Pm me for pictures

 

PM sent

 

Quick question guys. My tank builds up alot of pressure. I have all the emission stuff deleted and went from carb to EFI. Would the vent valve stuck closed cause this issue also. I went with a vented cap and the pressure that came out started to make the pain peal on the inside of the gas tank door.

 

On hot days sometimes I hear a high pitch hiss and smell raw gas. The sound is coming from the area of the tank driver's side. Could this be the vent? and if so should it sound like that?
Thanks for any help,
Robin
Destin,Fl

 

cmk-2 Yes, that's the little vent opening. It opens around 6-7psi. Sometimes it will sound like a dying cow. If you open the cap, the cow dies!
PS: Just got back from 10day in Destin/FWB!

 

Cool. Thanks. Did you have fun? Sunburn????

 

It was beautiful.Rained the morning we left to come home(17th). No sunburn and actually forgot to look you up and remembered on the way home.

 

This thread helped me to make this:

 

Thank you!

 

I remembered this thread from a search a few months ago. Knew the time was coming to swap the pump, and I wanted to clean that valve too. started work last night on the pump swap, searched for this thread this morning and BAM...new posts with a video!!!!! Awesome!

 

Would this be a good alternative?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tanks-Inc-VV...xVKVhp&vxp=mtr

 

...or this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Fuel-...tXqD4a&vxp=mtr