What looks wrong with this? 110 speedo and it's a z28? Seems highly unlikely. Plus missing the tpi badge? I am only using this as a learning tool to help me sort through the good and bad while I'm searching for my car. Most sellers don't post the RPOs which is a bit annoying.

Seems to very closely match another seller in Plano illinois. Which makes this a bit suspicious. Almost exact same wording...

Anyway, let's play a game of "I spy something wrong with..."

hope I'm not breaking any rules...

https://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/d/white-pine-91-camaro-z28-5-speed/6794327179.html

 

 

The speedometer is dictated by the tires. The base 91-92 Z28 (Non-G92) had the mid-level F41 suspension (instead of FE2) and without FE2 the tires weren't speed rated 245/50ZR16s. Non-speed rated tires = 110mph speedometer. So assuming the car is actually a Z28, the 110mph speedometer tells you the car doesn't have G92. Hope that makes sense and you can see how all the pieces fit together.

On 91-92 Z28s the ID is easy, just look at the VIN. F or 8 in the 8th digit is a Z28. T or E in the 8th digit and it's an RS. Because F and 8 are TPI engines, T is the 3.1L V6, and E is TBI. The only exception are B4Cs (cop cars) and realistically you're probably not going to stumble into a B4C.

Seller says it's been repainted, and the drivetrain has been mucked with, somewhat defeats the purpose of what the car was vs what the car is now.

I see a lot of red flags that would make me cautious. Not that I doubt it's a Z28, I just don't know if I'd want to take over someone's project car. The braided hose covers, add on instrumentation, side to top post battery terminal adapters, all point towards Cletus working his magic under the hood. The Walmart racing pedals are always a good red flag to watch for too. These things indicate bad judgement by a previous owner. Either you want to deal with stuff like that, or you don't. Easy enough to fix those issues, but who knows what else they cobbled together.

 

 

For some reason, the text I had attached disappeared.

Anyhow, I recognize the buildings, and the phone number seems right for the area (it's a really small town)...so I'm pretty confident it's actually local (about 50 miles) from my area.

I suspect it looks better in the pictures, than it would in person, the wadded up carpet in the back seat, and other things lead me to believe it's probably a little rough...

I had posted a pic of my car the day I bought it to point out Craigslist isn't always a bad place to find a thirdgen...I've had mine a little over 3 years.

I'm likely to be over in that neck of the woods in the next week..I'd be happy to see if I can coordinate a meeting with the owner, and look the car over if you'd like.

 

No doubt good stuff can be found on cl. I just don't seem to have the luck haha. I've missed on some I thought were really nice by mere hours...

Love that blue color

https://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/cto/d/rural-hall-1987-z28-camaro/6796558556.html

Looks ok. I thought all z28 were irocs 85-90?

What's wrong here, besides lack of pics? Good price? Not? I'm leaning towards maybe a tad on the high side? But would be fun on a road course for high speed touring and autocross

 

85-87 the Iroc package was an add-on on top of the Z28 package. To be an 85-87 Iroc, a car needs to have B4Z on the RPO list in addition to RPO Z28. From 88-90 all Z28s were Irocs, so the only RPO they have is Z28.

That's not an 87, or at least the hatch isn't correct for 87. The 3rd brake light on top of the hatch on the outside of the glass, was 86 only. In 87 the 3rd brake light was moved to the center of the spoiler. The only exception is some base 87 Camaros without the rear spoiler could still have the 86 style 3rd brake light.

At this point in time, I guess I look at most 'used' thirdgens falling into three categories. The first category is cars that were preserved and never driven. Extremely low miles, in impeccable condition, all original. Second category are the cars that range from clean originals with higher mileage, and cars that have been maintained and serviced without being hosed by teenage hotrodders, cars with tasteful mods. Third category is made up of the cars that haven't been maintained, they've been beaten, and used up, and generally are nothing but headaches unless you enjoy tinkering. If a car doesn't run or drive, is missing important parts, needs and engine or trans rebuilt or any number of other DOA issues, it's pretty much always going to fall into category 3. A cat 3 with a rebuilt engine, or fresh paint could slide into a cat 2 pretty easily.

None of the three categories really make ideal daily driver cars. Nice examples of the second category probably come closest. The 91 linked in your first post, is a mid level category 2 car. The 87 in the last post is a lower level category 2, maybe a category 3. The point of this being that a Category 3 car is and should be CHEAP, one step above haul it away and it's yours, cheap. Category 2 cars demand more money, and Category 1 cars can range from not a lot more than Cat 2 to the sky is the limit. Decide what you want to deal with, and budget accordingly.

 

What's your criteria? Budget? What kind of car? ....I search all the time, 75% for fun, 25% in the event that I find the right car for the right deal. In the price range of the cars you've posted I don't seem to find too much trouble finding decent cars. -but of course I don't know YOUR criteria.