ok i am shoping for a third gen because i am in love with them,i have ben lookin at them now for about 3 months and love them. i wanted a 89-91 irock z 350 tpi but now i found a super clean 91 rs with a 305 tpi is that a good price and are thay very problematic? it has 103,000mi


thx

 

RS Camaros did not come stock with TPI, if that one does then it was either aftermarket added OR it's a cop car that does have TPI. That year they had the reliable speed density system. Basically all you should do is a compression test, see that it can pass smog (that helps to tell if the engine runs right) make sure there is no check engine light and that the body, suspension, interior and all the basics are good. Check carfax to see how long it may have been a cop car and look for cop car damage (scratches along trunklid, holes in console, dash, etc). With a basic $60 check at a gas station you can get a lot.

 

you asked if it was a good price, but I do not see how much there asking...

John

 

If what you want is an IROC, I would hold out for the car you want. I dont' know the desirabilty factor of the RS cars, they don't do much for me, nor do I think that they are higher on the performance/desirabilty scale than the IROCS. I thought that the IROC'are the top of the line. If you are going to spend your money and potentially keep the car, cause you think it's great, then don't sell out for anything less than top of the line.
35 years ago GTO was the top of the line Pontiac, if you wanted a Goat, but settled for a LeMans, and kept the car all those years, throwing sentiment aside, you would be kicking yourself for not holding out for a real GTO. My Dad and uncle are into GTO's so I know first hand the power of the Goat vs. LeMans.
Me, I am into 3rd gen T/A' and 55 Chevies, and Vettes and street rods too. I lucked out when I bought my loaded T-top gorgeous red 87 TPI T/A for $2,300 to replace my totalled station wagon about 7 years ago. My parents have told me repeatedly that I should sell the car, especially since it has been through 2 accidents that last 2 years. One in which I peer-o-weted into a concrete barrier doing 50MPH after she hydroplaned. I did such a great peice of driving that only the front end was tagged lightly, which after she has been repaired and you can't tell she was ever tweaked. But, when I get to my 50's like my Dad is, I will be able to look back and thank him for teaching me the lesson of which cars to buy and which ones to pass up. Which ones to keep and which ones to use up. I was just thinking yesterday, how I would much rather have a t-top, top of the line, power everything car, in a pretty color scheme in stock trim, one the factories finest, rather than sell it to go in debt, to buy a medium to low grade new car.
So, my point if you haven't gotten it yet is, wait for the car of your dreams and don't settle. Especially when decent affordable IROCs are plentiful and cheap. One of my former students just bougth an 85 or 86 Iroc that needs a tranny, which came with an extra fuely engine for $1,600. The car is chipped up and could use a paint job, but it is black with a nice red interior, the wheels are decent and the car is a t-top unit. He looked high and low and bought the right car for his budget. If he keeps it forever, he will have the satisfaction of knowing that he bought the "right car." He also has a car worth putting time, effort and money into.
There are always good deals out there, you just have to know what they are, what they look like and be in a position to take advantage of them when they come your way.
One final example, I paid off my 87 T/A car loan and thought that I could go buy another car. I realized that I liked being debt free. As luck again would have it, within a year, a 73 Vette that had the paint stripped, but was never wrecked fell into my lap. I had always wanted a Vette,ever since I was a kid, but never thougth I could afford one. Well had I been hasty to take on another run of the mill project car, I would have missed the chance to realize a locked away dream. It needed the usuall paint, weather stripping, brakes exaust, tires, etc. needs for a 30 year old car, but was garage kepted and so the usual rust problems were not inherent. Had I blown my wad, I wouldn't have been able to pay the fair sum of $3,500 for it. It was a only a great deal, because no one hardly ever sells a Vette at a fair price, they are always overpriced because of the mystique and label.
Listen, learn, and reap the benefits of those "in the know," Grasshopper!
Be cool!
"TEACH"
PS. I modify my advice to, if you like it and can't wait... then only buy it to resell it and make money on. Don't buy it, if you don't think you can sell and turn a profit which will help you realize your dream and acheive your goal of a real IROC.

 

he wants 4900 for it

 

Average going rate for F-bodies in Central Pa is $3,500 for a decent one. Less for ones that have mechanical needs, inspection or paint, more for outstanding low milage cars,like $4,500-$5,000
Like I mentioned previously, I paid $2,300 for my 87 T-top,power everything, TPI, T/A 7 years ago, and just paid $300 for an 86 T-top, power everything carbed car T/A which needed the rebuilt engine replaced because the pistons were smacking the valves. The car also needed an entire interior, it needed tail lights and painted, but had all body parts, and they were dent free. The floor is thin and I will have to repair some sections to take the drag racing abuse I plan for it. I bought an entire 87 GTA interior, that is a tad torn up, but with Ultima bucket seats, a sweet console and leather wrapped interior parts for $175. I will be able to paint the whole car for about $500 which includes all the supplies to do that chore and strip it and do the body work. I just bought a 3.73 disc brake rear for $200. I bought an aluminum drive shaft for $45 and a new universal joint for $25. I was given 3 16" Formula wheels. I inherited 3 15" alumunim wheels like the 16"ones from my Dads wrecked 85 T/A, I got the other two wheels to complete the 15" set on the purchase of the rear. I purchased an additional 2 16" rims for $50 for the pair. I scored GTA power mirrors and a set of v-8 motor mounts for $15, the price of 2 yards of headliner matrerial the guy needed to recover his other GTA with. Which I have a guy who wants the motor mounts, and price of them is $20, so the mirrors will be free once that deal goes through. I spent roughly an additional $400 on the new engine I put in. Well the engine was laying around with only 20K on it, so I freshened it up and added a two peice timing chain cover so I could up the cam easily later, and added a fluid harmonic balancer for performance. So when I have put together this $300 starter project. I estimate that I will not have more than $3,000 in it. It will have GTA 6 way power seats, power mirrors, power steering and brakes WS6 suspension, T-tops, no air, no smog crap, tilt/TELESCOPIC leather wrapped steering wheel and column, nice T/A tailights, have 15" and/or `16" rims, a modified/upgraded 700R4, aluminum drive shaft, 3.73 posi disc brake rear, fresh 355 performance engine, fresh coat of black paint with silver bottom trim and a small red pin stripe just below the top the ground effects, in a top of the line 86 T/A that will eat most other F-bodies and Mustangs. All that comfort and performance for under $3K.
If you wait long enough, like at the end of the summer when the car is done and sorted out, the car may be for sale for the nonnegotiable firm, but fair price of $6,300. Fresh paint, fresh air blue sky option, fresh drive drain, and fast. It''s gonna have it all where it counts. Why not keep it? Well, I planned on that, but like to mentioned above, if you buy a car and turn decent profit from it to acheive a more desirable goal, then buying and selling is OK in my book. Though I would love to keep it, which is a ton of car, I would sell it for the right, fair price. Though it may sound like a lot of money and profit being made, there was a ton of work putting it together which is not being considered when you look at the cost to put it together in relationship to calculating the profit gained. I have a 73 Vette that needs painted, I also have a 55 Chevy wagon I would like to throw together for about $3,000 and have a 1940 coupe I would love to throw together and be driving in any shape. So, I would sell my beloved street/strip T/A project that I have schemed and dreamed of, to get other more important dream cars on the road.
I think $4,900 is a tall price compared to what I pay for parts and I have the ability to put together. If it were the 350 IROC Z you desire, then I could possibly see buying it, but would pass on this one. But I have 7 cars and many projects,so buying cars that are not at the top or extremely HIGH on the desirability scale is something that I refrain from.
Just my two cents, just trying to help you not learn a lesson the hard way that I have heard too many other people tell tales of.
The older I get, the more wiser my Father appears.
Be cool!
"TEACH"

 

heck, I think that was your book

Teach, I love your answers, there lots of information, I can really tell your getting into the site. I sure hope you can type really fast, because it took me almost 5 min just to READ your "two cents"

If it has not been said before, welcome.

BTW, I thought you mentioned before that your a teacher, makes sence from your answers, but what level do you teach?

I'm not a teacher, just curious...

John

 

Thanks for the welcome John,
I teach 6th and 8th grade Technology education in Central Pa. I also have been moonlighting on the weekends as the announcer at Beaversprings Dragway for the past 8 years.
I do type fairly fast, and my responses are geared toward an understanding level that no matter what a persons aptitude is, that hopefully they will still get the point and understand the message I am trying to convey. Because of my teaching position have learned to be very specific and descriptive in my responses, especially those on the internet since tone of the voice and body language is not a method of feedback that can be used. I get disgusted when you ask a question about something, and someone who can't type, writes a short non descriptinve response that is worthless since now you have more questions than before they responded.
Gotta get to homeroom!
Be cool!
"TEACH"