Any1 know the code for that semi-gloss black paint?? Also, when they painted them, did they just paint over the body color or what?? Thanks.

 

??

 

No1 knows this??

 

No1 knows this??

Apparently not. I don't know and would like to know too. In fact, I'd like to know the paint code for the wheels too (all colors).

 

Me too!!

 

There is no paint code for the headlamp pocket paint. Both restorations I have done, an '84 & '86 Z28 I have used a spray can of trim black in semi gloss finish and it looks perfect!
The wheel paint question, and I will tread lightly on this one.
1982-87 Gold code 92P should match the rocker panel paint which is code GM 7553 Standox 53193 Accent Gold. BUT I do not know anyone who has used this. But I found these codes buried in the back of a paint code manual at a GM dealers body shop.
1989-92 Red wheel code 81P; Should be the same as 81U? Which is the same as the body color. Same goes for White 10P,
Teal 37P, etc.

 

Spray paint?! Is that not going to peal and not stick to the bumper??

 

Theoretical question: Say, one time, at band camp,......er no!!

Sorry, say one time somebody had their car painted, and the body shop didn't put the said headlight pocket (Black) paint back on, what would be the best way to redo this? Do you need flexible primer, regular primer, no primer?? Please assist!!

Thanks!

 

I'll let you in on a little secret... If its black and a part on the outside of my formula, its semi-gloss black Rustoleum. On bare metal the only prep was 000 steel wool, over painted surfaces clean the surface with mineral spirits or something similar to remove any grease, you might want to use 400-600 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface a bit, but I didnt. The only trouble I've had with the pieces I've rattle canned have been from rock chips, which would have damaged BCCC just the same. Compare the prices, have a shop mix the BCCC, get the reducer, etc $80, go to the kmart around the corner, 1 can rustoleum $4. So what if it does peel or chip? Clean it up and do it again.

 

I'm using rustoleum spray paint on my IROC too. It's on my grill, my entire engine bay, all engine brackets, the factory airbox, cowl panel, and will be on my headlight buckets soon. The stuff sticks good, lasts forever, and is durable. I don't have a single mark in my grill, and I painted it 3 years ago.

 

Thank *** someone agrees with me on this. In contrast, an old friend of mine used some trim paint in rattle cans from the local parts stores, and it peeled off everything he painted.

I used to use rustoleum to authenticate toy guns... That was back when you could still buy a toy gun at walmart that could get your shot dead by a police officer, the only giveaway was a bright red muzzle or plug in the muzzle. A little spray paint was a quick fix. When they started molding them in different colors (blue, silver, tittie pink) Rustoleum was the only way to not look like an idiot while playing war. The paint stood up to sweaty 10 year old hands and rocks, dirt, etc etc etc...

 

Hmmmph, Rustoleum huh. Isn't that alot different than stock paint though?? I like original. The reason I ask is because I'm gonna be looking at an 87 IROC-Z that has a repainted bumper but they didn't paint the pockets black. If I buy it I HAVE to have it black, so either I pay a shop to do it right or ask u guys.

 

Let me put it this way... if I owned an Iroc that had body colored headlights and I wanted to correct them, I'd use rustoleum. And I'd go so far to say that you could park it next to an Iroc with 20,000 miles and all original everything and no one would know that I spent $6 and 30 minutes instead of $80 and 3 days, painting the headlight buckets.

Black is a very forgiving color when it comes to matching. Rustoleum can be bought in flat black, semi gloss black, and gloss black. Flat works pretty well for wheel wells, semi gloss works well for windshield wipers, antenna's, headlight buckets, fake radiator grills, etc etc etc... the gloss is really too glossy to look accurate, the exception might be the tbar, ttop trim, etc...

 

Ok I'll add a question to this thread. What if you have a car without black headlight buckets, like my RS. When I get it repainted, I want to black out the headlight buckets. Is there stencil or something I can buy? Obviously on the top and sides its a no brainer, but the front of the area is curved.

 

I haven't heard of a stencil. We just masked off the area to be painted. Yes it's very tedious to do. And yes this trim black is from an aerosol can. When prepped correctly it looks factory. Mine have been done for two years now, no chipping or flaking or stress cracks and the front end was backed into by some kid not paying attention.

 

What exactly did u use and how did u go about masking correctly??

 

That's why I did my whole engine bay in flat black. I'm not super fond of how it looks, but every time I pull the motor and scratch stuff up, I'm only 1 can away from another nice engine bay.

 

AMEN!!!!!

Kat

 

Take into account that this was done at a GM dealers body shop and we had all the rescouces needed to do the job. The tape we used around the perimeter of the headlamp pocket was very narrow, about 1/8th in. wide and went around the corners very nicely. I don't know what it's called but it is bright blue in color and is like vinyl. Then went over the blue tape with masking tape and masking paper. The prep work is what I was referring to as done correctly. We used a 3M scuff pad (I do not know what grade it was) and scuffed it for what seemed like forever and a day. Then laid down three coats of semi-gloss trim black and threw the nose panel in the bake oven. We have done this twice with the nose of my '84. Both times it was off the car and is much easier to do.

 

The tape is made by 3M, there are two varieties, a greenish and a blue... the greenish works well for straight lines, and the blue goes around curves well. Check anyplace that sells autobody supplies.

 

Cool. I'm gonna check that car out in a few days, why any1 would not repaint them the right color is beyond me.

 

There's a couple reasons a shop wouldn't paint the headlight buckets after repainting a car... first is that they forget they were black. Second if they don't do it, they save time, and time is money in a business. Third, if they don't do it, they save paint and don't risk screwing up the fresh paint. Not to mention some shops may be leery about putting tape over paint that hasn't had time to properly cure. ETC.

 

Hmmmph, some of those do make sense. If it was me I would have had them done though.