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Installed new hatch pull down but the hatch is stuck closed...

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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 07:38 PM
  #1  
rik89gta's Avatar
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From: CHICAGO
Car: 89 FORMULA 350
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 BOLT/ 3.27 GEARS
Installed new hatch pull down but the hatch is stuck closed...

I just installed my TDS hatch motor assembly today. It was similar to my 89 but it wasnt quite the exact same assembly. there was no wire running from the motor to the key cylinder. So I tried closing it anyways and it pulled the hatch right down. But now I cant open the hatch!!! The hatch release switch isnt doing anything and I cant open the hatch with my key! Anyway to bypass this thing so I can get it open???
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 07:52 PM
  #2  
roughskinjrz's Avatar
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From: Miramichi, NB
Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
you need the power wire for the solenoid for the electric release to be hooked up or now power to open the trunk.
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 09:09 PM
  #3  
rik89gta's Avatar
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From: CHICAGO
Car: 89 FORMULA 350
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 BOLT/ 3.27 GEARS
to be more specific... My old hatch motor, is still dangling by its only remaining connection from the motor to the key cylinder release thingy. It is just siiting on the bottom of the hatch floor. All the other connections like the few small wires, ,and the ground are connected into the new hatch motor assembly. Do I have to break open the grey interior trim piece to get back to the motors and reswap the ground wire? Right now its connected to the new hatch motor. So I figure that if were to do that... my hatch release solenoid should be powered up so I can just use the key or hit the release switch on the dash to open it.

I really dont wanna break the plastic piece thats covering the motor(s) just to reswap the ground the wire. Is there anyway to jumpcharge the release solenoid thats still connected to the old motor?
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 10:08 PM
  #4  
Stealthy-One's Avatar
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From: Washington DC metro
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 700r4 auto
Axle/Gears: huh?? guessing stock.
you should be able to pop out the cargo light and pop it with a flat bladed screwdriver.

at least in a 'maro... maybe a bird is different as far as the light. other wise maybe pull some of the carpeting off the trim piece, cut the plastic trim, do what you gotta do, then reglue the carpet over the hole. its hidden that way at least.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 09:54 PM
  #5  
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Next time follow the instructions that come with the re-manufactured pull-down unit. It is supplied without a manual hatch release or solenoid hatch release because you need to swap that from your old unit to the new one. Since you didn't install the hatch release onto your new pull-down unit you'll need to do the following: Crawl into the hatch. Pop out the rear hatch light. You'll see a large square-shaped hole. Inside that hole is a lever with a tab that is sticking towards you. You need to press on that tab and rotate the lever to the left. It will release the hatch. Once you've got it released remove the hatch surround trim panel and remove the 10mm screw holding the old manual or solenoid hatch release from your old unit. Install it onto your new unit wiht the 10mm screw. I include instructions for a reason. Thanks for proving the need to read and follow them.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

Last edited by lonsal; Sep 25, 2006 at 09:54 PM. Reason: added content
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 04:07 AM
  #6  
rik89gta's Avatar
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From: CHICAGO
Car: 89 FORMULA 350
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 BOLT/ 3.27 GEARS
Originally Posted by lonsal
Next time follow the instructions that come with the re-manufactured pull-down unit. It is supplied without a manual hatch release or solenoid hatch release because you need to swap that from your old unit to the new one. Since you didn't install the hatch release onto your new pull-down unit you'll need to do the following: Crawl into the hatch. Pop out the rear hatch light. You'll see a large square-shaped hole. Inside that hole is a lever with a tab that is sticking towards you. You need to press on that tab and rotate the lever to the left. It will release the hatch. Once you've got it released remove the hatch surround trim panel and remove the 10mm screw holding the old manual or solenoid hatch release from your old unit. Install it onto your new unit wiht the 10mm screw. I include instructions for a reason. Thanks for proving the need to read and follow them.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
First off, I never received any instructions with the unit. Just the hatch unit and an additional black wire. I am also pretty sure that its the wrong unit. It has a huge canister shaped motor on it. My original hatch release unit has a smaller, skinnier motor with a black wire that runs from the motor to the key lock cylinder. My car does have a dash switch for popping the hatch. But how do I transfer over the the wire thats provided with the newer unit. I can see that the one end has a ground for the key lock solenoid. But where does the other end of that wire attach in the newer unit with its bigger motor. I dont see any provisions anywhere...
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 04:58 AM
  #7  
Stealthy-One's Avatar
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Posts: 389
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From: Washington DC metro
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 700r4 auto
Axle/Gears: huh?? guessing stock.
hey lon, in Rik's defense, I just recieved my housing form you yesterday, read this thread so I checked my box. I got the housing, an invoice, a buisness card, and a pen. but no instructions. granted I know how I took mine apart so it wont be an issue for me, but I thought I would point out that sometimes instructions do get overlooked.

On a side note you have a PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 08:06 AM
  #8  
lonsal's Avatar
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
The 201280 and 203280 remanufactured hatch pull-down units come with installation instructions. They can also be downloaded from my web site or from the link I've provided in this post.

A reinfirced housing alone doesn't come with instructions since it is used on many more models than just a Camaro or Firebird (as you can see from the list of vehicles on the back of the label). The 101170 guides contain the instructions you'd need to disassemble and re-assemble the pull-down unit on a Camaro or Firebird. Those instructions can also be downloaded from my site. I suppose I can include a small label or insert that refers you to my web site to download the instructions if you have a Camaro or Firebird. Now for the promised links:

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/Doc...structions.pdf

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/Doc...structions.pdf

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 01:14 PM
  #9  
Stealthy-One's Avatar
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From: Washington DC metro
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 700r4 auto
Axle/Gears: huh?? guessing stock.
Lon, just thought Id let you know I got my housing in today and it is nice to have my hatch work like it should. I did what I mentioned in my PM I sent you this morning and everything is good now.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 09:13 PM
  #10  
Gallileo60's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,244
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From: Texas City, Texas Area
Car: 89 RS, 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TBI, 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Both Cars
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi.. 4 wheel disc both cars
Im sure I will catch ribbing for this, but I got tired of trying to fix mine, so I welded the piece, and now it works just fine...Does not pull down of course, but it does close just fine, and NO rattles, and NO LEAKS...the body lines are all perfect...I never was quite sure what the pull down thing was for..I have had several of these third gen's and each one was messed up.....Tom
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 08:25 AM
  #11  
Stealthy-One's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 389
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From: Washington DC metro
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: 700r4 auto
Axle/Gears: huh?? guessing stock.
yep. when this housing breaks thats the same thing Im going to do to mine.
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 05:16 PM
  #12  
86TpiTransAm's Avatar
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Originally Posted by Gallileo60
...I never was quite sure what the pull down thing was for..I have had several of these third gen's and each one was messed up.....Tom
The pull down motor is designed so keep you from having to close the hatch very hard and risk breaking the glass, hinges, or other parts. Due to the amount and weight of the glass as well as the overall weight of the hatch, over an extended period of time closing the hatch without the pull down motor will damage hinges and possibly break the glass. In the long run, the small amount of money spent on fixing the pull down unit is better than the amount of money you'll spend fixing other problems without a properly working pull down unit.
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Old Oct 11, 2006 | 07:28 PM
  #13  
Gallileo60's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 1
From: Texas City, Texas Area
Car: 89 RS, 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TBI, 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Both Cars
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi.. 4 wheel disc both cars
Well im sure glad I never slam my hatch.....this is the second one ive done this way..The first one was still fine 8 years later, this one has been this way for a few months, so we shall see....this is my keeper car, so I am pretty careful about shutting the hatch, the doors, and the hood.....Tom
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