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Hatch pulldown in closed position,

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Old 01-11-2007, 11:36 AM
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Hatch pulldown in closed position,

motor runs continuously. Battery on the charger now.

I searched the forum, but didn't find anything exactly like my situation. Can one of you opine as to the problem..? I see several complete pulldown assemblies on ebay with what seem to be reasonable prices... Would this be my best option?

I'm new to this forum, but I will appreciate any help. (Lon I see seems to be the guru in this area).

Thanks.
Old 01-11-2007, 12:04 PM
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Car: 89 IROC Z28
Engine: 357 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Originally Posted by ejgator
motor runs continuously. Battery on the charger now.

I searched the forum, but didn't find anything exactly like my situation. Can one of you opine as to the problem..? I see several complete pulldown assemblies on ebay with what seem to be reasonable prices... Would this be my best option?

I'm new to this forum, but I will appreciate any help. (Lon I see seems to be the guru in this area).

Thanks.
The Motor is working, right. That means is getting it's voltage if you remove the voltage it has to turn off. I not sure exactly how this motor works but I would think there must be a microswitch somewhere to tell the motor the hatch is closed so shut down. If I had to guess I would think the microswitch or sensor thats decides the hatch is closed is defectived.
Old 01-11-2007, 12:39 PM
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Car: 1985 Trans Am convertable
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
does it actually pull your hatch down?

seems kind of odd it would pull your hatch down and then strain to keep moving. I think they work like our headlights. Just keep going untill the resistance builds high enough.

Kind of why the plastic gears strip out all the time.

If its freely turning without pulling the hatch down then those gears probably are stripped
Old 01-11-2007, 12:54 PM
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Car: 92 RS(sold) 1989 IROC-Z
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Axle/Gears: ones that turn
Originally Posted by 85DropTopTA
does it actually pull your hatch down?

seems kind of odd it would pull your hatch down and then strain to keep moving. I think they work like our headlights. Just keep going untill the resistance builds high enough.

Kind of why the plastic gears strip out all the time.

If its freely turning without pulling the hatch down then those gears probably are stripped
at least its not stuck open like mine was I had to drive around with bungee cord holding it shut, you could always pull the fuse, and thatll stop it from running
Old 01-11-2007, 01:44 PM
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Thanks, all for the prompt response. I wasn't real clear on the first post, I guess. The hatch is not latched, but the pulldown is in the down position. The limit switch ( I have the assembly all apart now), I believe, relies on the bracket on the hatch to be in place to activate the contact that says "I'm down now".

Somehow, something must have tripped the switch contact that says "pull me down" without the hatch bracket in place.

So, I may have just an adjustment issue. However, since it's apart I would like to replace the plastic slides since a couple are broken. Are these available?
Old 01-12-2007, 09:06 AM
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Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
"Motor runs continuously" = broken gear nut. Download the instructions for the TDS 101170 aftermarket guides from the lower right-hand side of my web site under Documentation or the tech article I wrote that is on TGO. I have all the parts you'll need to rebuild your pull-down unit.

Lon Salgren
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Old 01-12-2007, 09:10 AM
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is there a way to bypass the stupid pull down somehow, mine you need to hold the button to open/close it, but its more of just a pain IMO, one more thing to go wrong
Old 01-13-2007, 03:52 PM
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Thanks, Lon. I had already ordered the guides and the gear nut from Hawkes Third Generation. Today before I saw your reply I had disassembled the unit and verified that both are worn out. The motor runs fine in both directions.

Gator
Old 01-13-2007, 05:46 PM
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Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
That's fine. You'll find TDS made the guides you got from Hawkes.

Lon
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