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Blinker wont cut off when done turning right.

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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 09:42 AM
  #1  
XxGeinNothingxX's Avatar
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 bored .30 over
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Blinker wont cut off when done turning right.

All of a sudden when I hit the blinker to go right, it wont turn off by its self. I have to manually put it back in the nuetral section. The left turn still cuts off by its self. Do I need a new lever set up, or could it be jammed somehow?
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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one of the bulbs probably burned out. Check to make sure all the bulbs are good first
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 12:14 PM
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me too

I'm having the same problem but its when I turn Left. I haven't
felt like working on it though... But I'm curious as well, anyone know?
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 12:17 PM
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From: Beaufort South Carolina
Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
The turn signal cancel cam is probably worn out or broken.My '83 has a similar problem but to the left like 3rdHXCGen.You have to pull the steering wheel to replace the canceling cam.
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 06:49 PM
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
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To think of it, mine is actually not working when I turn left as well. My bulbs are all in working order I am sure, I was about to look but I realized I dont have my car due to it being in the body shop for paint. That kinda sucks that you have to remove the steering wheel, I guess I will do that down the road some time, thanks guys. O, and to replace that, do I need to replace the whole control deal, or is there jsut a little piece?
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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i just re did my steering column, i tightened the 4 bolts and replaced the ignition cylinder and turn signal switch, mine didnt auto click off the right side, its caused by a broken cam spring, i figured since i was tearing the entire column apart id replace it so itd last another 20 years, there 30 dollars at shucks and there a real bitch to change out because of the connector fitting through the column shroud.
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 02:06 PM
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Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
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Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
A loose tilt steering can cause this. When it gets loose the cams aren't properly engaged. Either way you need to pull the wheel and get into the column.

You may find that tightening the column solves the problem without replacing any parts.
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by naf
A loose tilt steering can cause this. When it gets loose the cams aren't properly engaged. Either way you need to pull the wheel and get into the column.

You may find that tightening the column solves the problem without replacing any parts.


i disagree 100 percent, the switch is bolted to the column, it doesnt matter if the column is loose, because the cam is always going to be solid because its screwed down, its caused by being old and worn out and the springs usually break, bottom line.
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
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Axle/Gears: Posi 342
Ok, so, do you think I am better off trying to buy and install the spring, or should I jsut go to Modern Muscle and buy a whole little switch deal.

Also, how do you tighten up the column, mine does indeed seem to be loose. I can pull down on the steering wheel and it moves downward, or is that normal?
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 06:42 PM
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if your column is loose, you need to fix it, if the bolts come all the way loose, your steering will lock up and youll probably die if your going highway speeds. I would replace the whole turn signal switch, because if one spring broke, chances are the other compenents in there are or will wear out soon, so it doesnt hurt to buy a whole new one to last you another 20 years.
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 07:49 PM
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Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Originally Posted by 83Chevy__Camaro
i disagree 100 percent, the switch is bolted to the column, it doesnt matter if the column is loose, because the cam is always going to be solid because its screwed down, its caused by being old and worn out and the springs usually break, bottom line.
After you've been around for a while, you'll learn not to EVER disagree 100% with anything. You always want to leave that 1% chance that you may be wrong. Some say it's wisdom, I think it's just covering your @ss.
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 09:52 PM
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me too

Originally Posted by XxGeinNothingxX
Ok, so, do you think I am better off trying to buy and install the spring, or should I jsut go to Modern Muscle and buy a whole little switch deal.

Also, how do you tighten up the column, mine does indeed seem to be loose. I can pull down on the steering wheel and it moves downward, or is that normal?
My steering column moves up and down a little too I never thought it was a big deal but newer cars dont move at all...
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by naf
After you've been around for a while, you'll learn not to EVER disagree 100% with anything. You always want to leave that 1% chance that you may be wrong. Some say it's wisdom, I think it's just covering your @ss.


I will 100 percent disagree with it, because i JUST as in this week tore apart and fixed my steering column, im not wrong, because the same thing happened with my switch, i replaced it, test drove, works like new again.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 05:33 AM
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 bored .30 over
Axle/Gears: Posi 342
Ok, so lets tighten up the steering column as well jsut in case. Where do I do this at, at the floorboard or what? Sorry for my ingnorance.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 07:01 AM
  #15  
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
There's a tech article on this site that can walk you through tightening your column. You can rent the steering wheel puller and lock plate remover from Autozone or one of the others. If you don't go as far as pulling the tilt pins you can still tighten the two lower bolts and this is usually enough. I've done a few dozen and usually pull the pins and do all four bolts. On the last few I got lazy...I know. In and out in about 45 minutes. Just take your time and note where everything goes. Pay attention to how the high beam rod engages the switch in the rear of the housing. The plastic cam it engages is held in place with heavy grease during install. Have any questions as you go, we'll be here to help.

"I will 100 percent disagree with it, because i JUST as in this week tore apart and fixed my steering column, im not wrong, because the same thing happened with my switch, i replaced it, test drove, works like new again." -83Chevy__Camaro

Sounds like you're saying that because you found a specific cause (switch) for a specific problem (not blinking) in ONE case, that the switch will ALWAYS be the cause of the problem in EVERY case. I hope you're not reasoning from the specific to the universal (because it was the case once, it will always be the case in the future).

On the other hand, I've torn a few of these apart and in at least ONE case found that tightening the column fixed the problem of the turn signal switch not engaging correctly. So I'm saying that tightening the column MAY fix the problem. If you don't see the difference I can provide some references for further study. Francis Bacon comes to mind. It's all good though.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 08:05 AM
  #16  
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
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Alright, looks like I need to do a search. I will read up and when I get my car back from the body shop i can possible start on it. Thanks for all the input.

XxgeinxX
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 08:22 AM
  #17  
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Link to tech article:

https://www.thirdgen.org/steeringcolumn

Like the cowl hood, by the way.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 08:52 AM
  #18  
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 bored .30 over
Axle/Gears: Posi 342
I was having a hard time finding it by searching. Thanks for the compliment as well, be on the lookout in a couple weeks for the new look.

Saved it in my favorites for future reference, thanks again.

Last edited by XxGeinNothingxX; Feb 12, 2007 at 08:55 AM.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 10:00 AM
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Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 350 Ramjet
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: GM 9 bolt 3:27
Replacing the t/s switch may not be completely necessary. While a loose tilt pivot can sometimes cause the t/s to not cancel most often the problem is the cancelling springe on the switch itself. After the wheel is removed and the switch is visable you will notice two metal springs on one on each side. These are the cancelling springs that are actuated by the cam to cancel the signal. these springs can and do break over time and can be replaced individually. If you can find them ( donor switch, Some Technisians who know about this may have some squirrelled away some where, Almost all of GM switches like these except modular switches are mechanically the same) simply replace the spring. You don't even have to take the switch out. Be aware that the springs are wound differently for left and right and will not work if reversed.
Attached Thumbnails Blinker wont cut off when done turning right.-dsc05890.jpg  
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 06:23 PM
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alright well ill stand behind that statement as long as i live, you could have the god damn tilt in ANY position and its going to work the freakin same because it bolted to the column and the turn signal actuator arm is bolted to it, and thats IT, the next time i have to come in here im cracking skulls
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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From: Illinois
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 350 Ramjet
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Axle/Gears: GM 9 bolt 3:27
Originally Posted by 83Chevy__Camaro
alright well ill stand behind that statement as long as i live, you could have the god damn tilt in ANY position and its going to work the freakin same because it bolted to the column and the turn signal actuator arm is bolted to it, and thats IT, the next time i have to come in here im cracking skulls
Just because you have done it once or maybe twice doesn't make you an expert. I have worked in GM dealerships and various other shops for the better part of 20 Years. Instead of coming of the here and acting like an a** pay attention to someone else and read what is posted and not what you think it says. I learn something new everytime I read these posts and don't get offended because someone knows something I don't. I will qualify my statement about the tilt can (not will) cause the problem it can but it has to be almost falling off and unsafe to drive!!! I HAVE seen it happen personally. A honest question was asked and several people answered with their knowledge and experience to try to help someone who asked for help. I will not say you are wrong you have your experience and opinion. Just DON'T EVER use the terminology and idol threats you used because someone else happens to have different knowledge and experience than you and don't completely agree with you.

WHEWWW I feel better.
With that being said back to rational thought.

Think about something remember when you had it apart, there were 4 bolts of the firewall side of the tilt pivot. IF those bolts get loose enough they cause play in the shaft bearings in turn can cause the upper part of the shaft to wobble, IF there is enough wobble it can cause the cancelling cam to wobble off center also which can prevent the cam from contacting the cancelling springs. Admittedly it is rare but it can and HAS happened.
Have you ever seen a separated tire cause a flashing check engine light (OBDII misfire)? Anything is possible given the right conditions.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 07:53 PM
  #22  
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forget it pops

Last edited by 83Chevy__Camaro; Feb 12, 2007 at 08:04 PM. Reason: tired of arguing with old man
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 09:14 PM
  #23  
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Thought I was the Old Man. Whew. Glad that's over.

Later, young'un.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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Sorry for the tirade. I get ruffled when people don't let someone else have a different opinion and apparently think it is personal.

Last edited by bilms01; Feb 14, 2007 at 06:36 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 01:00 PM
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it's the cancelling cam.
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 02:14 PM
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neither do mine

neither direction of my t/s cancel, thats how i bought it so i have no idea what has happened...


i do know for a fact that i do not have the original steering wheel.


here is a pic of my colomn with the wheel off:































i have both of those springs as mentioned before... any suggestions?
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 11:37 PM
  #27  
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Engine: L98 -350TPI
I am also curious about getting through all that because my highbeams are stuck on...
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 12:01 AM
  #28  
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highbeams are activated by a rod that goes down the side of the steering column, could take off the lower trim and look under the dash and play with that switch
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