i have a 1986 camaro Iroc with electric door locks i can hear them work but they dont throw far enough to unlock the door? also should that button lock them also? becasue i dont think i hear anything from that side of the switch. this also happens to both doors.
let me know your thoughts
THANKS

 

Hi there. I have the same problem. However, I just got the car so I haven't had time to investigate the problem too much. I'm hoping that someone here could provide some info and save me some time!

 

Hey guys,

I have a 91 RS and had the same problem in my passenger door - the solenoid would activate, but it wouldn't push the lock rod far enough to actually lock the door. I bought an OEM solenoid and replaced it thinking that it would solve the problem, but it was actually a problem with the rod's pivot point. Not sure if that's the correct term, but basically it was where the rod from the solenoid and the rod from the manual lock/unlock slider meet. Mine was stuck and the solenoid wouldn't give it enough "oomph" to fully lock the door. It would move the rod, but to engage the lock I would still have to slide the lock button another 1/4"-1/2".

I tried a couple different types of lubes and greases to free it up, but nothing really worked. Eventually I just added an after-market door lock actuator made by DEI, p/n 524T. I just tapped the wires into the OEM lock/unlock wires and left the OEM solenoid hooked up as well. It has been working great for awhile now and the only thing that is different is the louder "ka-chunk" noise from the non-OEM solenoid.

I'm actually in the process of installing TDS's hinge repair kit right now so if you need some pictures of how I installed the DEI part please let me know.

 

yea ill take all the info you have, pictures, anything will help... so your sayin that i need to replace the solinoid with an aftermarket one? also should the buttons work for both lock and unlock because it only sounds like its workin on the unlock side.. the lock side dosent do anything... its the same for both doors strange huh also can you give me some info on the hinge repar kit thanks

 

If your solenoid is only being triggered for unlock and not lock I would check to see if your switches are functioning. Just get a digital multimeter from Sears or somewhere and test the wires at the switch or the solenoid. At the solenoid, one wire should get ground while the other gets 12V when a button is pressed. The wire that gets 12v is the wire that corresponds to the button being pressed (ie. lock or unlock).

If your solenoid is not getting any voltage when you press the switch then it's a whole different animal. I'm pretty sure that there is only one 12v feed wire running to the switch inside the door, maybe someone can confirm that. If this is true, then both lock and unlock should work since you said that the unlock button is triggering the solenoid. If not, then you could have a bad switch.

You can always test the solenoid with a 9.6v-12v cordless drill battery. Just strip back the wires near the solenoid (I think they're tan and gray?) and touch the positive terminal to one wire and the negative terminal to the other wire. If it pops the solenoid then reverse the wires and see if it pops it back the other way. If so, then you have a bad switch or wire related problem. If it doesn't pop in one direction then you probably have a bad solenoid, however its unlikely that this would be the case since both solenoids are having the same problem.

Another thing you can check if you've exhausted all options are the wires running through the boots in each door. A lot of times wires can become brittle and break due to the repetitive opening and closing of the door. This can be checked with a multimeter using the continuity setting. Just put one test lead on a wire inside the door and the other on the same wire after it is has entered the vehicle.

I know this sounds like a lot to check, but I just wanted to give you a bunch of ideas to work with. I'm sure its something that will require just a quick fix. As is usually the case though, its FINDING the problem that is typically the biggest ordeal.

As far as the hinge repair goes, just check out www.top-downsolutions.com and look for the kit that Lon sells. Its a little pricey but definitely worth it. Plus he's a great guy and really cares about his customers so you know you'll always get top notch customer service. If you pick up the kit make sure you get the spring removal tool and the door adjustment tool as well. They make the process a whole lot easier, and safer!

Also, I've attached the picture you requested of the aftermarket solenoid that I installed in my door. Good luck with everything.

 

The problem may well be as RS suggests; however, try the simple first. My 85 had similiar problems. I shot the heck out of the mechanism with WD-40, then relubed with white grease. All has worked as designed for several years now. While you're in the door panel, you might consider the following link:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...servation.html

JamesC

 

Hi folks. I really appreciate the response. My windows are moving up and down slowly too. I suspected that the mechanisms need to be lubed up. Hey, it's worth a shot!

Thanks again!

 

I used PB Blast on my lock motors, work great.

 

This is a common problem. The actuating rod inside the actuator is giving and not applying the right pressure. In other words it is worn internally. Replace them. Most car audio shops can do this. The aftermarket DEI (makers of Viper,Sidewinder,Clifford,Etc alarms) has std. replacement actuators that can wire directly in. To mount, do not worry about the OEM location. Mount them parallel to the door rods (front to back) and use the suppplied attachment kit to connect to the factory rod. You will need to make a small support bracket to mount the actuator securely but this is easy. I am a 12+yr experienced and certified 12volt tech. I did this on my '86 many years ago after having the same issue. By mounting it parallel to the rods throw, you will never have this problem again.

 

A quick solution for this is to go out and buy a aftermarket kit for $20 replace the motors and use the factory wireing. Personally I would use the aftermarket wireing for the keychain button factor.