My Haynes manual shows everything BUT how to remove the actual steering column. I'm going to do a direct replacement from a '91 RS with the same cruise control turn signal lever and also has an airbag. The steering column I'm getting literally has everything still on it including the ignition switch so it should be a direct swap.

So, after searching the forums I couldn't find a how-to on how to do remove/replace the steering column. Anyone know of a guide and or some pics of the removal? Any help is appreciated.

 

i replaced the column in my bird should be similar in your 'maro. theres 2 13mm nuts under the knee bolster panel and 3 10mm maybe, up where the column goes through the firewall. i think when i did it i took out the gas pedal too for clearance with the end of the column but cant remember i have a pic without a column and the pedals on the floor. then its just unclipping all the harnesses and connectors and one bolt in the engine bay on the end of the linkage. also i would disconnect the battery due to the airbag before unpulgging anything....

 

Should also remember to wait a few minutes after disconecting battery before messing with airbag wiring since the "DERM" holds a chage for a certain amount of time !!!!!!!!! ....... have a matching resistance key cut that matches your original key but fits replacement column. Or get ready for the VATS to go into sleep mode.

 

Good info thanks for the replies. So before I start the searching how hard is it to disable the VATS system? I'd like to enable a push button start along with a "hidden" switch under my dash that immobilizes the car unless the switch is activted. Maybe fuel or power shutoff switch..? Any recommendations?

 

turning off the vats is not very difficult. measure the resistance of the chip on your key. then get a resistor with the same value and plug that into the vats connector. as for your hidden switch..... you could tap into the ignition with a switch wired in parallel so that it has to be "on" for your car to start. Good luck

 

Why would you want to eliminate VATS it's a good system. Pretty fullproof in my opinion if you maintain it by installing a new tumbler every now and then.

Why would you want to install a resistor thats not bypassing VATS. It's just bypassing that chip in your key is all. At least if the system is working like it's supposed to will take a long time for a thief to steal it due to the sleep modes. I once tried a identical key in my car but a different resistance pellet and it wouldn't start. even when I put the right key in afterwards it still wouldn't start. Basically had to let the car sit for 4-5 minutes before it would start again with the right key.

So it's not a matter of just stealing a VATS car with an assortment of chips till you get the right one. you have to wait till the VATS system goes out of sleep mode till you try another key. And it's my understanding VATS sleep modes get longer after two failed resistance readings. I've never tried more then one failed resistance reading so don't Qoute me on this. Maybe someone else knows more about the sleep modes.

Yes I'm sure it can be done but I'm going to go out on a limb and say even if you had all 15 codes it would still take you a good hour or two to start it. And no thief is going to stick around that long. They will just move on to a easier target is all.

I'm sure alot of people have had their fair share of VATS troubles but I also think the majority of the problems can be directly related to the tumbler itself or the chip in the key being worn down ..... Aside from the vats decoder box going bad thats the only real expensive part.

 

VATS sleep modes do not get longer with each attempt. Its set at about 4 minutes. I got my car at auction and had to have keys cut and had a locksmith come out and his simulator had a built in timer for 4 - 5 mins.